Pierce Barrett Posted July 23, 2012 Report Posted July 23, 2012 Just throwing this in, what about some Orion HCCA's? 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG
CJ18 Posted July 23, 2012 Report Posted July 23, 2012 If you do it right you wont have any problems. Its the people that think that they can put 4000w to a 2200w subs without the proper compensation that blow subs. Oh yeah this one is the real kicker, I heard it the other day "I know I wasnt giving my sub full power, my gain was only at 80%". Those are the people that blow subs, no matter what brand. He was running a brand new Level 4 M2 on a Sundown SAZ-1500 which would have been less than the rated RMS for the driver after voltage drop and impedance rise. I can agree with you that describing your gain setting at 80% is, for a lack of better terms, a dumb way of putting it, but I still do not see how he experienced what he did. The end result was that of the entire cone separating from the voice coil. The tinsels hadn't even gotten hot enough to burn the stitching securing them to the spider. I have yet to see the coil itself in person, so I am unsure as to whether or not it is truly burnt as I have seen numerous M2 coils being sent out with a dark coloration to them. I know him personally enough to know that he is not ignorant to the point of sending a hard clipped signal to the driver at full-tilt for an extended period of time. It just seems as if the new M2 stuff just doesn't take as well to a little abuse as the M1 stuff did. I separated the cone from the coil once on a freshly reconed XL a year ago after about 45 seconds of play-time, and it was due to a bad batch of glue. The only time I ever had an XL fail on me while actually using it was about three years ago when I sent over 2,000wrms of uneducated, ignorant, poorly guided clipped signal to it for about three months when the tinsels got so hot that they burned through the stitching securing them to the spiders, and then proceeded to slap off of the cone until they snapped. Coil was still mint. I don't know... On a side not, not standing up for my friend, I can agree with you 110% that ignorance ruins stereo equipment quicker than anything. A Wal-Mart Sony XPlod amplifier could burn up a brand new Level 5 if you felt the need to treat the gain as a volume knob. That's why if you either know how to, or know someone who may own a DD-1 or oscilloscope, by all means go to them and make sure that you have everything set up correctly for your vehicle. It makes no sense to warrant stupidity. And to say something to stay on-topic, BassBarbie I find it absolutely BADASS that an attractive female is not only interested in this hobby, has found the initiative to join a forum with such a knowledge bass as ours, but is also already so knowledgable in the field herself. That 144.9DB legal in your signature is a number that so many dudes (not being sexist, but stating that ANY car audio forum is predominantly dudes) have to be kicking themselves over as they are running more cone area and more power and still have trouble getting there. I think i'm going to read through your entire build log now instead of skimming before making this reply. lol Here is the voice coil picture that I was sent. This explains to me why he snapped the triple joint in 30 min. To turn a coil that is normally a light golden color to this in just 30 min is pretty damn hard.
Crandis16 Posted July 23, 2012 Report Posted July 23, 2012 If you do it right you wont have any problems. Its the people that think that they can put 4000w to a 2200w subs without the proper compensation that blow subs. Oh yeah this one is the real kicker, I heard it the other day "I know I wasnt giving my sub full power, my gain was only at 80%". Those are the people that blow subs, no matter what brand. He was running a brand new Level 4 M2 on a Sundown SAZ-1500 which would have been less than the rated RMS for the driver after voltage drop and impedance rise. I can agree with you that describing your gain setting at 80% is, for a lack of better terms, a dumb way of putting it, but I still do not see how he experienced what he did. The end result was that of the entire cone separating from the voice coil. The tinsels hadn't even gotten hot enough to burn the stitching securing them to the spider. I have yet to see the coil itself in person, so I am unsure as to whether or not it is truly burnt as I have seen numerous M2 coils being sent out with a dark coloration to them. I know him personally enough to know that he is not ignorant to the point of sending a hard clipped signal to the driver at full-tilt for an extended period of time. It just seems as if the new M2 stuff just doesn't take as well to a little abuse as the M1 stuff did. I separated the cone from the coil once on a freshly reconed XL a year ago after about 45 seconds of play-time, and it was due to a bad batch of glue. The only time I ever had an XL fail on me while actually using it was about three years ago when I sent over 2,000wrms of uneducated, ignorant, poorly guided clipped signal to it for about three months when the tinsels got so hot that they burned through the stitching securing them to the spiders, and then proceeded to slap off of the cone until they snapped. Coil was still mint. I don't know... On a side not, not standing up for my friend, I can agree with you 110% that ignorance ruins stereo equipment quicker than anything. A Wal-Mart Sony XPlod amplifier could burn up a brand new Level 5 if you felt the need to treat the gain as a volume knob. That's why if you either know how to, or know someone who may own a DD-1 or oscilloscope, by all means go to them and make sure that you have everything set up correctly for your vehicle. It makes no sense to warrant stupidity. And to say something to stay on-topic, BassBarbie I find it absolutely BADASS that an attractive female is not only interested in this hobby, has found the initiative to join a forum with such a knowledge bass as ours, but is also already so knowledgable in the field herself. That 144.9DB legal in your signature is a number that so many dudes (not being sexist, but stating that ANY car audio forum is predominantly dudes) have to be kicking themselves over as they are running more cone area and more power and still have trouble getting there. I think i'm going to read through your entire build log now instead of skimming before making this reply. lol Here is the voice coil picture that I was sent. This explains to me why he snapped the triple joint in 30 min. To turn a coil that is normally a light golden color to this in just 30 min is pretty damn hard. it was a little lighter than what my poor camera could show, but still looked crispy. It's beeing fixed soon sorry for thread jack! My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL
BassBarbie Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Posted July 23, 2012 Just throwing this in, what about some Orion HCCA's? Thought about these as I could use a friends set but they dont do well number wise. But very well built sub they can get low and loud. Im looking to get loud on the meter. daily my 2 8s is plenty loud Don't Let the Pretty Face Fool You, I Roll Like a BOSS 2008 Ford Edge SEL Pioneer Avh-4400 Head Unit 2 Sundown Z V.3 12"s Mechman 270 Amp Alt Externally Regulated Sundown Audio Ns-1 Shok Industries 1/0 Xs Power D3400 Xs Power D3100 Lots of Stinger Road Kill Deadner 152.1 DB Legal TL Score (for now) Build Log http://www.stevemead...dge-sa8s-build/
rogue Posted July 23, 2012 Report Posted July 23, 2012 What about the dd 9512s, Or 9518? You dont have to get the z to be loud. The 95s are still a damn good choice and far cheaper than the z. BMW X5 Stealth Build w/ IPAD BMW 325i Rear Deck Digital Designs Build BMW 325i Car PC Touchscreen Bezel Build
Pierce Barrett Posted July 23, 2012 Report Posted July 23, 2012 Just throwing this in, what about some Orion HCCA's? Thought about these as I could use a friends set but they dont do well number wise. But very well built sub they can get low and loud. Im looking to get loud on the meter. daily my 2 8s is plenty loud The Orion's don't do good on the meter? I'm about to a build with a 12.2 for compettiton just to get the experience. Maybe I should get a different sub then. 2006 Ford F150 4.6 3v (2) Digital Deisgns 3515's D4 Digital Designs M3B w/ Toolmaker Dual Inputs Mike Singer Built 340 Amp Alternator Arc Audio KS 300.4 *mids and highs to come soon* Alpine 148BT And tons of 0 AWG
BassBarbie Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 Just throwing this in, what about some Orion HCCA's? Thought about these as I could use a friends set but they dont do well number wise. But very well built sub they can get low and loud. Im looking to get loud on the meter. daily my 2 8s is plenty loud The Orion's don't do good on the meter? I'm about to a build with a 12.2 for compettiton just to get the experience. Maybe I should get a different sub then. They are alright but they do better low end. my car peaks a bit higher. Don't Let the Pretty Face Fool You, I Roll Like a BOSS 2008 Ford Edge SEL Pioneer Avh-4400 Head Unit 2 Sundown Z V.3 12"s Mechman 270 Amp Alt Externally Regulated Sundown Audio Ns-1 Shok Industries 1/0 Xs Power D3400 Xs Power D3100 Lots of Stinger Road Kill Deadner 152.1 DB Legal TL Score (for now) Build Log http://www.stevemead...dge-sa8s-build/
BassBarbie Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 What about the dd 9512s, Or 9518? You dont have to get the z to be loud. The 95s are still a damn good choice and far cheaper than the z. The 9512s would probably work as well. But there also expensive anything DD is overpriced to me Don't Let the Pretty Face Fool You, I Roll Like a BOSS 2008 Ford Edge SEL Pioneer Avh-4400 Head Unit 2 Sundown Z V.3 12"s Mechman 270 Amp Alt Externally Regulated Sundown Audio Ns-1 Shok Industries 1/0 Xs Power D3400 Xs Power D3100 Lots of Stinger Road Kill Deadner 152.1 DB Legal TL Score (for now) Build Log http://www.stevemead...dge-sa8s-build/
Brandon15zzz Posted July 24, 2012 Report Posted July 24, 2012 I absolutely agree about dd pricing. Why aren't you doing the zv3's anymore? I must have missed it. Vehicle: 1995 Impala SSHead Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BHMids And Highs: (still deciding)Batteries: 1 Deka Group 34 Time to make a race car.My Build Log: Solo X 12"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build/My Build Log: DC lvl 4 xl 15"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build-My Wall Build Log: 4 Lanzar 15's/ 3k+ RMShttp://www.stevemead...t-by-techforce/My Feedback:http://www.stevemead...1
BassBarbie Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 I absolutely agree about dd pricing. Why aren't you doing the zv3's anymore? I must have missed it. I still want to do the z v.3 I just dont know if ill have them in time for this show coming up and thats why I have built my system is for this show its a 3x event in Licoln city Oregon Don't Let the Pretty Face Fool You, I Roll Like a BOSS 2008 Ford Edge SEL Pioneer Avh-4400 Head Unit 2 Sundown Z V.3 12"s Mechman 270 Amp Alt Externally Regulated Sundown Audio Ns-1 Shok Industries 1/0 Xs Power D3400 Xs Power D3100 Lots of Stinger Road Kill Deadner 152.1 DB Legal TL Score (for now) Build Log http://www.stevemead...dge-sa8s-build/
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