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Passive radiators. Punch HX 2 10


Smoove

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Posted

I can't find a thread (other than the SA 8 that shows the performance of a Sub using a PR. I am planning on using 2 10" PR's to get the correct tuning for a 10" Punch HX2 built into a center console for my truck.

Has anyone had experience with PR's?

Posted

Trying to keep the box small so I can have functional center console. I have 2 8's in a ported box where the center console would be and it takes up to much space

Posted

Trying to keep the box small so I can have functional center console. I have 2 8's in a ported box where the center console would be and it takes up to much space

Why not a ported box but with a single, manly 8 or 10? That seems to work well for center console installs.

I'm gonna hate

Posted

i have had a few experiences with passive radiators and i am still not sure how much they really help . my first house stereo i had some old koss floor speakers , they were 2 way with 8 inch woofer and 10 inch passive radiator , they were tunable by adding or removing one of two brass weights that would thread onto the radiator . those speakers made pretty good bass for their age and being 8's . played with the weights and really didn't see any noticable difference .

had an infinity basslink sub and it had a passive radiator , it worked ok in my standard cab dakota until the amp shit out . i gutted the thing and kept the radiator , wound up playing with the radiator while i was playing with a single 10 alpine type r trying to see if i could live with a single 10 (can't by the way) . i made a few boxes and tweeked each one many times and my experience out of all that was that a sealed box was about the same as all the times i tried the radiator .

really not sure how helpful passive radiators are

Posted

i have had a few experiences with passive radiators and i am still not sure how much they really help . my first house stereo i had some old koss floor speakers , they were 2 way with 8 inch woofer and 10 inch passive radiator , they were tunable by adding or removing one of two brass weights that would thread onto the radiator . those speakers made pretty good bass for their age and being 8's . played with the weights and really didn't see any noticable difference .

had an infinity basslink sub and it had a passive radiator , it worked ok in my standard cab dakota until the amp shit out . i gutted the thing and kept the radiator , wound up playing with the radiator while i was playing with a single 10 alpine type r trying to see if i could live with a single 10 (can't by the way) . i made a few boxes and tweeked each one many times and my experience out of all that was that a sealed box was about the same as all the times i tried the radiator .

really not sure how helpful passive radiators are

Sounds like you were judging volume, passive radiators help with low-end extension, eliminate port noise, and tune the box (you will see roll-off below the tuning frequency that is usually a touch steeper than a standard bass-reflex design). Passive radiators do very little for output when compared to bass-reflex setups, since this is the field bass-reflex boxes tend to excel in when built and tuned properly. Since passive radiators rely on the indirect transfer of energy from the main driver(s) to the radiator(s) there is inherent energy loss with passive radiator inclusive box designs. Passive radiators tend to provide more resistance than their equivalent (in tuning frequency) bass-reflex counterparts for the same driver (depending on the weight of the radiator) which can lead to a "tighter" sound as well as enhanced cone control during high excursion response.

I'm gonna hate

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