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how can you guys do such a thing so easily. I understand how to do it, but i mean how can you just go into it like that? Every amp I've gotten (I've gone through 2 blaupunkts, 1 kenwood, an old RF i borrowed a while back from a friend, and now my Hifonics BRZ1700.1D) has had a sticker on the part you would take off to show off the amp guts that says in usually bold red writing, WARNING, WARRANTY VOID IF SEAL IS BROKEN or something along those lines.

Now, I've never had to warranty an amp till....a few weeks ago when my first BRZ shit out on me, but had i done something like that, i would have been shit out of luck. How can you guys justify saying fuck it, ill hope this doesn't shit out on me and have to be sent in for warranty?

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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The real question is why do you keep blowing amps?

I have yet to truly blow an amp...I just bought new ones that were slightly better than the previous ones (RF NOT INCLUDED, IT WAS A LOAN) My kenwood lasted 3 years before it died, and my blaupunks worked when i took them out to put the kenwood in. My BRZ had a short somewhere in on the board according to customer service. My alpine 4ch that just died is 4 years old now. So i don't keep blowing amps, stfu and post something relevant.

Max gain and bass boost ftw lol.

My skar amp didn't have a warranty void, but all I'm not going to mess with the internals.

No, gain is never past 1/3 and bass boost is always turned off/all the way down, i don't intend to mess with the internals, but i don't want to void the warranty on my BRZ i just got back either.

The real question is why do you keep blowing amps?

Prob running it @.5 with no electrical upgrades

nope, never ran an amp below 2 ohms in any of my setups, so guess again.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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If you buy higher end stuff from less known brands you usually don't find those stickers. I've never had them on any amp I've owned, my Cadence doesn't have one nor do any of my new and old Soundstream Reference amps.

I'm gonna hate

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Most the amps I see people doing plexi backs/fronts to don't have a void sicker on them in the first place. Take my DC 2.0k for example.

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Edited by SojiaRaggs9000

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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only ones I've had i would want to have been the RF, but it wasn't mine, and it was a decade old, so it wouldn't have mattered, and my current BRZ, which i wouldn't mind taking a look at its guts anyway.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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The first thing I do when I buy a new amp is crack it open and take pics of the internals. If one ever dies on me I will send it in for repair regardless of what the sticker says. I think the real issue manufacturers have is when consumers make changes to the components.

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