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diatribe

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Everything posted by diatribe

  1. The new Colossus is CEA 2006 rated, so at least it should.
  2. Parts Express has a refoaming service. Check it out and see if they work on your speakers. http://www.parts-express.com/speakerrepaircenter/index.cfm
  3. I looks like the SoundStream DTR1.3400D internals. They are pretty well received as far as power output goes.
  4. A couple of caps look like their bulging on top. If they is, that is most likely the source of your high pitched sound. Get it fixed now before it breaks and save a lot of money. Look around locally for TV/electronics repair shops and see if they can replace them for you.
  5. Really? Screw us? Why not just apologize and move one? I smell the beginning of the end for you.
  6. I wouldn't buy car audio speakers just to use in your home audio. You can get better pricing and sound using home audio speakers. Check out Parts Express, they have a lot DIY stuff there to get you started. http://www.parts-express.com/
  7. Audio Art made some of the better amps on the market. The 240.4xe is an AWESOME amp.
  8. LPF at 170? Drop that sucker down to 80-90Hz. I think your expectations may not be on level with your equipment. Only thing that you might be able to do is have a custom enclosure built that is optimized to your subs. Regardless, your LPF needs to be way lower.
  9. That's not a cheap amp by any means. It's very well built. It will produce enough power to push that HCCA very well.
  10. The Soundstream RUB1.1600D would work for around $200. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20694_Soundstream_RUB11600D.aspx
  11. So sorry for your lose. A good friend of mine died at 19. It was tragic and very hard to believe or understand. I still think of him almost 20 years later. But it does remind me that life is short and that we should live every day to its fullest.
  12. It was pretty nasty in Charleston WV. We caught the edge of the storm and our power was on and off several times.
  13. Pretty beefy for the price. I think the ASA line is pretty well built.
  14. I'm surprised no one has mentioned the AQ2200D yet. For the price it may be the best amp in this power range. http://www.audioque.com/AQ2200D-Amplifier_p_31.html
  15. The first thing I do when I buy a new amp is crack it open and take pics of the internals. If one ever dies on me I will send it in for repair regardless of what the sticker says. I think the real issue manufacturers have is when consumers make changes to the components.
  16. Here are some bended aeroports a used on my AA Avalanche 15". I think it was tuned around 27Hz.
  17. I agree the aq1200 would be an upgrade, but don't dump on amplifiers just because they are class AB. Generally class AB are better sounding than their D counterparts. The only real disadvantages are their price and efficiency. In this case i think you are looking at a nice upgrade if you go the aq1200.
  18. I grabbed the ts params from RE's website. In yellow is a graph of 4 cu ft tuned to 33 Hz. RE's recommended large ported enclosure. Red is 4 cu ft, with a system total q of 0.737. Honestly, the XXX models much better as a sealed enclosure.
  19. Measure the space that you want to fit it into. Give us a rough width, height and depth that you have to work with.
  20. Here are a couple more close ups...
  21. These are the minimum number of ports per driver. Multiply the ports by the number of drivers you have. 15's need 2 four inch ports. 12's need 1 four inch port. 10's need 1 three inch port.
  22. Here's my Phoenix Gold Ti800, with aluminum heat sink. Most of them were steel. Class A/B and underrated by 20%. 800w @ 2ohms 400w @ 4ohms
  23. The XXX's don't need that much power. I would look into a nice 150 watt per channel amp. This one from Arc should fit the bill just nicely: http://www.arcaudio.com/product-pages/amplifiers/ks-series/ks3002.asp
  24. You could just run them directly of the power and ground inputs on your amplifier. I little geto, but it should work.
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