Got a ridiculous hypothetcial question for the pro's.

[Raptorman]

I think your biggest challenge with this would be to find a way to effectively cool the coil without adversely affecting the mechanical movement of the subwoofer, and trying to keep the coolant separate from the cone/spiders.

I'm tuned in should you decide to do anything with this project

Haha, I hardly have enough money to fund my computer hobby. I'm only 17 and only run a small computer repair shop. I wish, I'd try this in a heartbeat.

[Sanitarium]

I'm running 5.0 daily on my i5 2500k...

but now for the question(s)

the part in the sub that has to be rated thermally like that is the voice coil. the voice coil is attached to the cone, the cone moves. Water cooling that would only add un-needed weight/mass which would GREATLY affect performance.

now onto amps. good amps have a thermal overload protection circuit that ~should~ protect it long before the amp can self destruct.

that isn't to say that water cooling isn't used, RF for instance uses water cooling on their bigger amps during the prototyping/benching process. The thing is, the people who would really need the extra cooling in the real world are the same people who burp their cars, or run a 30 second bassrace, then shut the system off and let everything recover. There's also the whole power lost through heat thing, and the fact that heat decreases conductivity, you're really running around in circles here and should just get the bigger amp to begin with.

[SnowDrifter]

If thermal capability was raised, you'd start running in to mechanical limits shortly thereafter. So you might be able to cool that subwoofer, but you feed more power to it and push it harder, something mechanically will fail.

This is what I was going to say. Thanks for saving me the typing lol

Isn't there a Soundstream sub that can take like 10k rms burps even though I believe it's rated much lower? (Just read this on this forum a week ago) Wouldn't that be an example of a sub that would benefit from the cooling because mechanically is seems it can take the 10k rms? Sorry, I'm quite the noob.

There would be a couple basic things to consider regarding mechanical power handling

- There is the excursion limits of the driver, which can be controlled with the enclosure

- Possibly a different set of spiders to better control the mechanical motion

- The is the coil-cone joint

- And there is the spider-coil joint

Edit: Just brain storming out-loud here

How about putting some sort of water proof stretchable cover along the bottom of the spiders, then encasing everything from the spiders to the bottom of the magnet in some sort of closed container

Then have a nonconductive coolant sprayed directly onto the coil above and below the magnetic gap. Hook everything up in a closed loop system so there is no splatter/loss

Edited June 27, 2012 by SnowDrifter

[Raptorman]

If thermal capability was raised, you'd start running in to mechanical limits shortly thereafter. So you might be able to cool that subwoofer, but you feed more power to it and push it harder, something mechanically will fail.

This is what I was going to say. Thanks for saving me the typing lol

Isn't there a Soundstream sub that can take like 10k rms burps even though I believe it's rated much lower? (Just read this on this forum a week ago) Wouldn't that be an example of a sub that would benefit from the cooling because mechanically is seems it can take the 10k rms? Sorry, I'm quite the noob.

There would be a couple basic things to consider regarding mechanical power handling

- There is the excursion limits of the driver, which can be controlled with the enclosure

- Possibly a different set of spiders to better control the mechanical motion

- The is the coil-cone joint

- And there is the spider-coil joint

Edit: Just brain storming out-loud here

How about putting some sort of water proof stretchable cover along the bottom of the spiders, then encasing everything from the spiders to the bottom of the magnet in some sort of closed container

Then have a nonconductive coolant sprayed directly onto the coil above and below the magnetic gap. Hook everything up in a closed loop system so there is no splatter/loss

Or possibly just AC the crap out of the inside of your box? Haha. Maybe route the AC in your car to the box. Don't know how cold that would get. Now we're getting into stuff about cars, which I'm also not that bright with, haha!

[SnowDrifter]

Lol. That might actually work, at least a tiny bit. If I have been playing my subs for a while, the air coming out of my box starts to get warm just from the heat dissipation

I think having air channels of some sort would work better. I have tried sticking an air pump into the pole vent on my old level 5 before. It didn't do much though - the air went up and out the vent holes without being channeled across the coil haha

Edited June 27, 2012 by SnowDrifter

[Raptorman]

Lol. That might actually work, at least a tiny bit. If I have been playing my subs for a while, the air coming out of my box starts to get warm just from the heat dissipation

I think having air channels of some sort would work better. I have tried sticking an air pump into the pole vent on my old level 5 before. It didn't do much though - the air went up and out the vent holes without being channeled across the coil haha

Yeah I think if the surrounding air in the box were ALL to be cooled, that'd be the most efficient way, instead of some water-loop or whatever. Damn I'd love to try this out some day haha.

[SnowDrifter]

Or perhaps drilling channels into it, kind of like the bottom plates on the new DC XLs and pumping cold air into those?

[IH8PunkRok]

the sub is a no go. pointless really

but the amps... the science is there. im willing to bet though that you would have to remove some circuitry to allow it to want to make more power

otherwise you would just have a really cold amp

[Raptorman]

Or perhaps drilling channels into it, kind of like the bottom plates on the new DC XLs and pumping cold air into those?

Possibly, I have to leave my computer-source for now though. I will come back soon and check out if anything else has been added in this thread. Thanks everyone!

[lifted_silverado]

If thermal capability was raised, you'd start running in to mechanical limits shortly thereafter. So you might be able to cool that subwoofer, but you feed more power to it and push it harder, something mechanically will fail.

This is what I was going to say. Thanks for saving me the typing lol

Isn't there a Soundstream sub that can take like 10k rms burps even though I believe it's rated much lower? (Just read this on this forum a week ago) Wouldn't that be an example of a sub that would benefit from the cooling because mechanically is seems it can take the 10k rms? Sorry, I'm quite the noob.

There would be a couple basic things to consider regarding mechanical power handling

- There is the excursion limits of the driver, which can be controlled with the enclosure

- Possibly a different set of spiders to better control the mechanical motion

- The is the coil-cone joint

- And there is the spider-coil joint

Edit: Just brain storming out-loud here

How about putting some sort of water proof stretchable cover along the bottom of the spiders, then encasing everything from the spiders to the bottom of the magnet in some sort of closed container

Then have a nonconductive coolant sprayed directly onto the coil above and below the magnetic gap. Hook everything up in a closed loop system so there is no splatter/loss

I believe thats how the bazookas worked. They had a hole through the bottom plate that ran up and through to the top plate around the coil. It never sprayed directly on just cooled the motor around it. The amps ran off of radiators built into the casing

I used to have one of the bazookas way back when. It was more of a pain in the ass to hook up more than it was useful. All it does is introduce a new series of things to take up space and more potential to have something fail. Anti freeze running into your sub/amps/electrical isnt the best idea