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"battery saver active" signal


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Ok so yesterday I redid my big 3 with 0/1 wire and have 2 runs to the trunk and the wire ran back is not live but I'm driving today an my dash says "battery saver active" I whip out the manual and it tells me get my battery tested. Well I pull over pull the multi meter out and test it at idle. It's not charging past 14 volts. So I get to work and test resting voltage and it read 12.82. Couple hours I go to test it and it's the same 12.82. Can anyone tell me why in getting the warning?

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what car year make and model

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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stock battery?

stock alt?

no amps or anything right?

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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  • 3 months later...

After adding aftermarket audio gear to my 2008 Chevy Impala, I learned about the "big 3 upgrade" and like many others, I too was

dealing with severe dimming of lights and such. I performed the big three upgrade by adding to existing wires. I did not remove any

factory wires. Immediately I experienced the "battery saver active" warning on my DIC. It usually pops on after the first 10 minutes of

driving. I do have a 260 amp HO alternator on the car and lights still dim slightly, but way better now. I am using a Optima red top battery

and a 5 farad hybrid cap. What I found out and how I corrected my battery saver active dilemma was that simple little, what I call a "factory

amp clamp" that was originally on the positive cable of the original battery cable. When I added my alternator to positive battery cable for the

big three, I did not run it through that "factory amp clamp". As we all know electricity takes the path of least resistance. So, to sum it up, I was

bypassing that factory installed switch or hall effect as some may call it. The car did not pickup the amps coming out of alternator and thought

we had charging or battery issues, thus triggering the battery saver active mode. I ran as many original wires and the new 1/0 cable through

the hall effect sensor and my active light does not come on any more. It is easy to locate the hall effect switch, it is a wire harness that is taped

around the factory positive cables, approx. 8 inches from top post. The original cables need to be cut at the end to get the sensor free and

fish the new upgraded cable through the sensor. Good luck!

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