BMRacer Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Alright my first build. I have a DC 300 alternator. 2 18" still deciding which ones. 2 Rockford Fosgate T2500. 1 T400. A JVC KW-R900 head unit. 2 XS 3100. 1 XS 3400 (under hood). And just 4 RF speakers in the doors. Can anyone help on what kind and how much wiring im going to need? I want to knoww whats the best and where would it go and how much $$$ am I going to be spending for the wiring? Thanks for any Replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I don't know as far as the best wiring would be. But I would suggest making sure the wire you get is OFC(oxygen free copper) and you will probably need to do 2 runs of 1/0 awg, pos and neg to the back, maybe more depending on your voltage. Along with that, you should do the big 3. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 For wire you could check out Knuconceptz, Rockford, tsunami, or if you wanted to save some money maybe Flex-A-Prene welding cable. Check out those brands and they also got different colors between the companies so you kinda color choice also. For length it jsut depends on your vehicle. I got a Tahoe and for 2 runs to the back seats I would be looking at about 16'x2 so that would be around 32' for the positive runs to the back. Got maybe 4-5' per ground if you go directly to the frame so 8-10' for the grounds. I would for sure go ahead and do the big 3 so that would be about 9-10'. I used 10' total on my Tahoe. I totaled all the wiring lengths I posted and that it was 52'. So around 52-55' if you got something as large as a Tahoe. I would also make sure all my wiring was OFC and the brands/companies I listed all sell OFC. I can't really say a price but around 3.29-5.50/ft are the prices I normally see. Also you will need to grab several 1/0 anl fuse holders. Tony aka Snafu here in the community has some Big 3 kits you may want to check out. I will post a link to his kits below. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/130212-charging-system-upgrade-kits-our-spin-on-the-big-three/ http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/chargesystemupgradekits.html Fuse holders: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i229_fuse-holders.html Feel like I am forgetting something but hope this can help you out. -James - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMRacer Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Thanks so I probably will just buy one of those 50ft rolls. I have a Chevy avalanche so its close. Also is 4/0 guage better than 1/0 and if it is can I use 4/0 guage for everything? Also where would you put the fuses? One by the battery and one for each amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 One right after the battery on each Pos. lead, in between the Alt and Batt, and one on the Pos. lead going to the 2nd battery is what I got. You could fuse right after the battery and then right before each amp which would put you at 2 fuses per Pos. lead but if anything ever shorted out you would be covered. 4/0 wire can handle more current and might have less resistance but IMO i think its just hard to find grommets, fuse holders, wire terminals/lugs, and other parts that will fit 4/0. I would just go with 1/0 and do at least 2 runs to the back. One run per amp since they dont have dual inputs on them. 50ft roll + 25ft roll would be a little more than enough but you would have some spare wire laying around in case something happened and you needed it or you could just sell the extra if you really wanted to. -James - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yUmadBro Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 deff. run 0 gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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