Socky Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 might have a faulty regulator, sounds like its just turning the alt off after you rev the engine. But it kicks it back on when drops back to idle. Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 anyway to check it without sending it back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The thing I don't understand is why does the voltage drop so low after I rev engine up. My 320A Mechman spikes up to 15.5V when I punch the throttle but never drops below 13.8V (warm) when I let off the gas and drop to idle. Given I have an adjustable voltage module with it but it sounds like you may have a flaky voltage regulator of you're dropping in the 11's by just letting off the throttle. How did you installed yours? Took out the stock alt and just installed the Mechman with the pulley that came with it. I left the stock control header disconnected. It came with an adjustable voltage module instead that I ran to a relay that's switched by my ACC wire. The pulley it came with is smaller right? I tried both pulleys, stock and smaller one, and can't get the voltage to stay where it should be. I'm not sure, I didn't compare them that closely. At a glance they seemed similar. My old pics don't really show the pulleys together. I'll try to measure them when I get a chance but I can't see how pulley size would account for your voltage to drop like that...? I'm still thinking the regulator is flaky... Today I found out that I have the opposite problem that you do. When my Mechman's "cold" it gives voltage spikes of at least 15.5V when I take off from a stop. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBetterMethod Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Looks to me like you might be able to get an idler pulley in place there above your power steering pump (whatever it is under the alt). Use the two bolts it mounts on with and fab a bracket to hold a pulley that will increase the belt wrap on the alternator. If there's room. 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3 The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/ 140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash! REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I talked to Mike about voltage drop and he said it's because "the alternator can't stay turned on since your not spinning it fast enough. It drops to resting voltage of the batteries." So the problem is that alternator not spinning fast enough and belt slips a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Looks to me like you might be able to get an idler pulley in place there above your power steering pump (whatever it is under the alt). Use the two bolts it mounts on with and fab a bracket to hold a pulley that will increase the belt wrap on the alternator. If there's room. The only option I have is to get a much smaller belt. Which I did. Stock is 60.5 and I got 58.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I think your alt has a regulator issue tbh THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I asked him about regulator and he said it's got nothing to do with it. Hopefully belt will fix the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andale927 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I asked him about regulator and he said it's got nothing to do with it. Hopefully belt will fix the issue. Feel the belt after playing full tilt for a while. If it is superhot then that is an indication of belt slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I asked him about regulator and he said it's got nothing to do with it. Hopefully belt will fix the issue. Feel the belt after playing full tilt for a while. If it is superhot then that is an indication of belt slip. With the voltage drop I'm having right now, I'm afraid of blowing amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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