PardeTime Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Maybe you misunderstood me. I do do Eventing myself. I just didn't really want to gut this Volvo. I am going to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PardeTime Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 The car has all 4 gauge stock wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Maybe you misunderstood me. I do do Eventing myself. I just didn't really want to gut this Volvo. I am going to do it. If you have to gut the car to do the big 3 then this is not the car to bother installing a system in. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 The car has all 4 gauge stock wire. ah gotcha. i didn't see anywhere where you said your rear batteries were grounded to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PardeTime Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 My bad. It's 2gauge. All the way up. To the alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Sinha Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 One more fast question. Store sold me amp said it was OK to drop to 4 gauge after second battery. Amp won't take 0 gauge...is this possibly a problem? If the 0 Gauge you have fits, it's not an issue. When they specify a wire size for the amp, it's typically due to the size of the fitting. You can run a 0 gauge wire on everything, it won't hurt a damn thing, just fuse properly from your battery to amp. You're fused for 4 gauge, but running 0 gauge. Alpine CDE-164BT/Rockford Fosgate P400X4 Kicker CS 6.5" Components (Front) Kicker 6.5" Composites (Rear) (Running at -10DB for soundstage) RF P400X1 Monoblock 2x Rockford Punch P1 12" 4 OHM SVC running @ 2 OHM in sealed 1" MDF box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PardeTime Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Rear battery is grounded to the block as far as I can tell. With 2 gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR2011bu Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Another thing is if you want to run 0awg from batt to amp try a 0-4g reducer as well. But then again for that short of a distance the amount of current flow shouldn't really differ between the 4 an 0g.. or should it. And hey like every one else says do the big three. Yes you will have to tear into the volvo but hey I see it this way Spend a few extra hours doing it right Or spend a few more dollars replacing what i have messed up due to being lazy haha. I tore into my 2011 malibu after only 2,200 miles but it was worth it. Under Construction 2011 Malibu 1LT 12k DDM Tuning HID's 55W Soundstream 6.5 components(front) Inffinitty Kappa 6x9's (rear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Your daisy-chaining of power and ground cables is a bit more worrisome. ...bro thats the way you're supposed to do it. + and - from first battery going to + and - on second battery. then you wire the amp to the second battery He has 3 batteries in series. Each connection has the potential to add resistance to the circuit. The most optimal way to connect a multi-battery system is the shortest point to ground (ie: not series) and the shortest point to the alternator (ie: not series). With a two battery system running series isnt a huge issue because you are limited to the number of connections that can cause an issue. If you are running 3 batteries or more you should be using a bus bar or have the 3rd+ battery(ies) connected after the amplifier so that if there is going to be a poor connection issue at one of them it will not cause series resistance to the circuit which the amplifier is attempting to draw power from. Doing this gives the amplifier circuit preference to the power supply system. If there is extra charging capacity it will go to the battery bank with less possibility of starving the amplifier should one of the connection points be poor quality. Ground your system to a solid point. The body of the vehicle often has rubber spacers between it and the frame which can cause a poor connection. Unibody cars are a bit better in this regard but you can still be limited depending on what point you choose to ground to. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 But he hasn't wired his batteries in a series. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.