how to wire 6 10s

[ZachG]

The comp 10" comes in 2,4and 8 svc

If you want a single amp get either 2 or 8 ohm

And run at 1.33 final load

Nah not enough room to do 6 properly and 4 wouldn't be that loud, the 2 15s looks like that idea I'm sticking with

[Joe X]

oh man. 6 10s in a trunk?! goodluck! haha

Haha yea that's the problem here. I might have to go to my original idea of 4 Memphis pr 10s on a zx1000 but I'm Gunna play around with Torres and see

Kicker comps work well in infinite baffle setups in case you decided to attempt that.

Ok I'm not Gunna have the room to do 6 10s properly so I'm just Gunna do 2 obsidian audio 15s with 3.25cubes ea tuned to 32hz..

Now I need to figure out how to use Torres properly to make a box with my diameters of 15.5h-33w-32d

You can do subs front and a couple of 6" aeros (minimum) to the side on those dims.

Hey I like the idea with the aeros cause then I can defiantly build the box my self.

& since my car the rear seat arm rest when its down goes straight open to the trunk do you think I can put the aeros in the rear near that opening to my cabin and have the subs faceing back to the trunk lid??

Or would it be better to do the subs faceing front to that opening and aeros in the rear to reduce rattles but then not be as loud?

Due to your space restrictions I would suggest this:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33 Hz

Vb = 6.9 ft^3

External Height = 15.5 in

External Width = 36 in

External Depth = 31 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 x 31

Left & Right Sides = 29 1/2 x 13 1/4

Front & Back = 36 x 13 1/4

Port Quantity and Dimensions:

Number of Ports = 2

Pipe Port Diameter = 6

Pipe Port Length = 16

You would need about 6" clearance in front of the ports and some bracing inside.

[ZachG]

oh man. 6 10s in a trunk?! goodluck! haha

Haha yea that's the problem here. I might have to go to my original idea of 4 Memphis pr 10s on a zx1000 but I'm Gunna play around with Torres and see

Kicker comps work well in infinite baffle setups in case you decided to attempt that.

Ok I'm not Gunna have the room to do 6 10s properly so I'm just Gunna do 2 obsidian audio 15s with 3.25cubes ea tuned to 32hz..

Now I need to figure out how to use Torres properly to make a box with my diameters of 15.5h-33w-32d

You can do subs front and a couple of 6" aeros (minimum) to the side on those dims.

Hey I like the idea with the aeros cause then I can defiantly build the box my self.

& since my car the rear seat arm rest when its down goes straight open to the trunk do you think I can put the aeros in the rear near that opening to my cabin and have the subs faceing back to the trunk lid??

Or would it be better to do the subs faceing front to that opening and aeros in the rear to reduce rattles but then not be as loud?

Due to your space restrictions I would suggest this:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33 Hz

Vb = 6.631 ft^3

External Height = 15.5 in

External Width = 33 in

External Depth = 32 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 33 x 15 1/2

Left & Right Sides = 29 3/4 x 14

Top & Bottom = 33 x 29 3/4

Port Quantity and Dimensions:

Number of Ports = 2

Pipe Port Diameter = 6

Pipe Port Length = 16 1/2

As you can see there is no more space on the front, nothing should me aiming top and subs ports in opposite faces will very likely result in cancellation. I think the above will work well but you might need to build inside the trunk. You would need about 6" clearance in front of the ports and some bracing inside.

EDIT: The sketch is preliminar.

This design looks good, the thing I would do though is face the subs towards the cabin and the aero ports in the back on the side cause that 33w is max near the front. In the rear near the trunk lid my trunk gets 7 inches wider on each side so then the aeros would have room to breath & flex my rear quarter panels ;p

[john253a]

Just be aware with the 2 6" port firing onto trunk side that you will get panel flex,

You'll need to double layer sound deading in that area, or you will have issues with paint and panel warp, (I've been there) it may not be as bad as some due to the power used but nine the less something to consider

Have you though about making the front of the box a v shape so you can fit both subs and port forward, that's what I would do,

[john253a]

As I'm not at home and using some simple maths

It the box was to v in 3.25" by 12" long on each side you'll have a surface of 15.5-16" for sub

And 9" on the middle for aeroports

Buy doing so you lose 0.6cuft of box

But u can regain it from adding a bit to the rear

[ZachG]

As I'm not at home and using some simple maths

It the box was to v in 3.25" by 12" long on each side you'll have a surface of 15.5-16" for sub

And 9" on the middle for aeroports

Buy doing so you lose 0.6cuft of box

But u can regain it from adding a bit to the rear

I can do another 2-3 inches in the rear if I had to and if the subs wouldn't be faceing the rear.

[john253a]

All would be forward, so then you could seal trunk off

[ZachG]

All would be forward, so then you could seal trunk off

As in seal off you mean mostly seal off cause I'm leaving my rear seats and a little space wouldn't be sealed. My trunk is really weird with the layout let me get some pictures up tommrow I can't really explain it

[Joe X]

If you can go to 36"W you can do port/subs, I would measure again.

[ZachG]

If you can go to 36"W you can do port/subs, I would measure again.

Ok so I just took my existing sub box out for better measurements. In the front I have 35 3/4. So the box can be made to 36"w & I could just sand a little bit after cause that 35 3/4" spot is only 5iinches long.

So let's do 36" with subs and ports faceig front and I will seal it off from the trunk also