caraudionoob Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Hey, everyone. I'm new to car audio and I hate to read so can you design a box for my RE Audio SXX15? Let's try that again... I'm new to car audio but I love to learn, so I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum. I have a RE Audio SXX15 and this is the box that I plan on building for it. This is the first box that I am building, so any tips is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Ok post max dims for the box vehicle and amp models, main type of music you listen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 1st Welcome to forums!! I think for a first box design this is a good place to start. Consider cutting the 90degree angle on the bend are of the port so that the entire bend is at a 45 (both sides of the port). How much power will you be running to the sub? What is your electrical system? alt bat wires? What amp? What car? Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caraudionoob Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 (edited) Ok post max dims for the box vehicle and amp models, main type of music you listen. Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, I am restricted to those dimensions (21.5D x 16.5H x 28W). I was wondering if, restricted by those dimensions, this is the best box I can build. I will be driving the sub with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D. I listen to a variety of genres, but mostly rock, metal, dubstep, pop, and instrumentals. 1st Welcome to forums!! I think for a first box design this is a good place to start. Consider cutting the 90degree angle on the bend are of the port so that the entire bend is at a 45 (both sides of the port). How much power will you be running to the sub? What is your electrical system? alt bat wires? What amp? What car? Thank you for the warm welcome. I have a '09 Camry Hybrid (with the JBL system) with stock alternator; battery is a DieHard Platinum. I plan on doing the Big 3 upgrade. I have a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D and plan on running about 900watts to the sub. I also have the Boss NX3000.4 and will be running about 150watts to each channel. Thanks for the advice with the 45s. Edited July 25, 2012 by caraudionoob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Ok here is a suggestion, yes you are restricted on those dims but withing the range suggested by RE: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.9 Hz Vb = 3.3 ft^3 External Height = 16.5 in External Width = 28 in External Depth = 21.5 in Port Width = 3 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 28 x 16 1/2 Left & Right Sides = 19 1/4 x 15 Top & Bottom = 28 x 19 1/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 3/4 x 15 Extension = 5 1/2 x 15 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): The pic shows how to smooth the port turn, the width of the port must never below 3 1/2" so cut the 45 accordingly, if you can't better don't do them at all. Let me know any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caraudionoob Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Thank you for your suggestion, Joe X. I have a couple of questions about your design. 1. What is the advantage of the double front? Won't that cut internal volume? 2. Does increasing port width and length make it sound better? 3. Is it better to cut the top and bottom as you designed (28 x 19 1/4), or can the top/bottom be the base (28 x 21 1/2)? Thanks for your all help. Looking forward to more advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Bates Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Thank you for your suggestion, Joe X. I have a couple of questions about your design. 1. What is the advantage of the double front? Won't that cut internal volume? 2. Does increasing port width and length make it sound better? 3. Is it better to cut the top and bottom as you designed (28 x 19 1/4), or can the top/bottom be the base (28 x 21 1/2)? Thanks for your all help. Looking forward to more advice! the double baffle or "double front" is to prevent flex and basically be more solid (TMK) and thw port size change is to allow more air flow, and lower tuning, basically and again TMK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caraudionoob Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 (edited) the double baffle or "double front" is to prevent flex and basically be more solid (TMK) and thw port size change is to allow more air flow, and lower tuning, basically and again TMK Ahh, so that's what baffle is. I didn't know what that meant in Torres' calculator. Thanks for answering. @ Joe X. Did you use Torres' calculator to design that box? I couldn't get the volume to match up. It came up to be 3.08 cubic feet when I did it: Basically, is your box design (the sturdier, more air flow box) worth the 0.5 cubic feet lost in volume? Again, I'm new to this so I'm just going by RE Audio's 4.0 cubic feet for "optimal", but since I can't have that big of a box, I just figured, the closer to 4, the better. Am I wrong on this? Also, are the 45s in the other three corners not necessary? Edited July 25, 2012 by caraudionoob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Thank you for your suggestion, Joe X. I have a couple of questions about your design. 1. What is the advantage of the double front? Won't that cut internal volume? 2. Does increasing port width and length make it sound better? 3. Is it better to cut the top and bottom as you designed (28 x 19 1/4), or can the top/bottom be the base (28 x 21 1/2)? Thanks for your all help. Looking forward to more advice! Ok let me answer some of those: 1) Answered. 2) Not necessarily, also remember that the bigger the port the shorter the compression chamber becomes for a given volume. 3) It may provide a little better support like suggested but you can assemble it the way you want as long as is physically the same. Check your Torres to have # of common walls set to 3 and number of extra to 1 and all the rest, your result is low. on the double baffle, do it or not IMO yes but you can disagree and do a single baffle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caraudionoob Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 (edited) Thank you for your suggestion, Joe X. I have a couple of questions about your design. 1. What is the advantage of the double front? Won't that cut internal volume? 2. Does increasing port width and length make it sound better? 3. Is it better to cut the top and bottom as you designed (28 x 19 1/4), or can the top/bottom be the base (28 x 21 1/2)? Thanks for your all help. Looking forward to more advice! Ok let me answer some of those: 1) Answered. 2) Not necessarily, also remember that the bigger the port the shorter the compression chamber becomes for a given volume. 3) It may provide a little better support like suggested but you can assemble it the way you want as long as is physically the same. Check your Torres to have # of common walls set to 3 and number of extra to 1 and all the rest, your result is low. on the double baffle, do it or not IMO yes but you can disagree and do a single baffle. Thanks for answering my questions (and quickly too). It really helps since I plan on building it this weekend. I checked Torres and I got the same number as the screenshot above. Would you (or any one else) mind answering my other two questions? I guess you missed it before. "Basically, is your box design (the sturdier, more air flow box) worth the 0.5 cubic feet lost in volume? Again, I'm new to this so I'm just going by RE Audio's 4.0 cubic feet for "optimal", but since I can't have that big of a box, I just figured, the closer to 4, the better. Am I wrong on this? Also, are the 45s in the other three corners not necessary? It doesn't show it in your picture." Edited July 26, 2012 by caraudionoob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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