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no worries,... ok then,,.. using stock signals, (like i am, hell, Meade is in his IS-f) theres methods.... some costly, aka a JL audio Clean Sweap, or 3sixty.2 or .3. and many others.,..

LOC,.. there you go...

Or a line output converter.....That takes your stock HIGH level sig, and throws down a RCA low level signal........

There is MANY choices even there........

Here is a link to one that i used, and sold,.. and wish to hell i didnt...

http://www.rockfordf...tid=413&parid=1

The RF-BLD was the cleanest LOC i have ever heard. Loved that unit. You just tap in to the signal you want. Make sure its a signal (lower end) you want.

Anyway, They give you RCA (low level, whatever ya wanna say) signal, and You add the amplifer, and drivers, and your banging.........

With my stock HU controling half my car, this was a great way to get some low level inputs to your aftermarket amp. I did sell that, and went a step further, as i wanted more control.

Many many things you can do, stick a after market HU somewhere or use a LOC, or (kinda pricey DSP) to get you some RCA's (low level) sigs.

Edited by KyLar96
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Not gonna go all out on the clean sweep or anything like that lol defeats the purpose of this only being a temp until i get all my materials to do a full upgrade. Everything from the HU to amp, speakers, and subs.

So to get this straight, i need the rf-hlc and i can splice off the feeds going to the existing sub?

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Not gonna go all out on the clean sweep or anything like that lol defeats the purpose of this only being a temp until i get all my materials to do a full upgrade. Everything from the HU to amp, speakers, and subs.

So to get this straight, i need the rf-hlc and i can splice off the feeds going to the existing sub?

The RF BLD is quality a LOC and (dude, i think Tony D and SM are actually coming out with one soon,.. that would be aweosme) is in fact all you need. From what i understand your wanting. Tapping into the existing sub signal is exactly what you would want. Ya dont want to tap into your dash tweet signal, cuz Id bet your other signals, like your doors, and such, might or are band passed from factory. So, if you tapped into those, you would get a signal that is BP way to high for your sub stage,.... make sence?

Get a decent LOC, tap in to the low end, get your amp properly installed, and your subs/enclosure and get banging.....

Edited by KyLar96
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i wouldn't recommend running aftermarket subwoofers off of a stock subwoofer amplifier. bad things can happen.

why would bad things happen if you know the correct impedence to run at? just curious what your thoughts are

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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Not gonna go all out on the clean sweep or anything like that lol defeats the purpose of this only being a temp until i get all my materials to do a full upgrade. Everything from the HU to amp, speakers, and subs.

So to get this straight, i need the rf-hlc and i can splice off the feeds going to the existing sub?

it would be cheaper to go with the PAC-SNI 35. it sounds great as well. not to hate on the RF LOC. but its just more expensive if this is only temp

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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Why the BLD? Doesnt the hlc do the same thing but $100 cheaper? Never really got.in depth with line drivers.

Also, after i get that situated, what about remote power. Can i run straight from the battery and incorporate a toggle or will i have to run off one of the wires?

This is that faq i mentioned earlier: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/radiosc.html

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Ok,..

They make 3$ LOCs too. I can only talk about what I've used. I don't know what th HLC is.

That's what I did.

And a switched On or REMOTE is nothing..., Jump that when ya get there..

Edited by KyLar96
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To start off, wonderful site and community here people! :)

I'm new and wasn't sure if this was a wiring or what category. My apologies.

I have a 2006 Cadillac CTS non bose which i am leaving for the time being. I will be swapping everything out at a later time so it'll just be one big jump on it.

I am wanting to supplement the existing subwoofer that is built in with two little 12's i was given. My only hindrance here is the remote turn on lead for the amp, and the RCA for the input. I cannot for the life of me make sense of some of the wiring diagrams at cadillacfaq.com

The stock amp is the acdelco that is OEM and i want to run these subs off the same channel as the existing sub so the factory HU still controls it. Sorry if it sounds like I'm talking in circles guys, long day.

There is this LOC (may be others) that when they listen audio signal it will self generate an amp turn on signal without you needing to interface with something else:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html

If you are cheap you can just use the ignition signal but you will have to interface from a fuse box or somewhere like that and the amp will stay on as long as the car is on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I'm not sure if my amp will take that auto-generated signal. Like I said, this is a temporary setup and this is the amp I'm working with. I used this when I first got into car audio and has served me well to test some subs and everything I needed it to do.

http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B000CHRK72

Also, sorry for the delay. I didn't realize you had responded. I was supposed to get an email when someone replies.

Edited by jvoytko
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