bre2ts Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 ok guys i need help with wiring but car audio related. i just recently bout a temperature controller for my freezer and need help wiring it up. i need to know if it wants me to put both power inputs into the same slot, also need to know if it wants me to connect the load ground to the input ground. heres a picture of wiring diagram thanks Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Nate no touch 110 and up Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 aghhh Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 240VAC is made up of two "hot" 120VAC lines. One is 180deg out of phase with the other to produce the 240V. Don't connect any grounds to the wires shown. There should be separate green wires that connect your home's ground with the chassis of your equipment for protection should one of the live wires come loose. You should have two black "live" or "hot" wires at the outlet that's feeding the freezer. One connects to the COM terminal and to the load. The other connects to the 240 terminal. Then jumper from the 240 terminal to the C terminal on the other termination block. Then connect the NO (Normally Open) terminal to the other connection on the load (freezer). C, NO, NC is a relay. C and NC should be normally shorted together. The temp controller will activate the relay which then shorts C to NO. 240V is dangerous as Nate mentioned. PLEASE shut off all breakers to the equipment before working on it. Once wired, make sure all connections are covered with wire nuts (no e-tape) and hidden from access. Hit the breaker and you should be good. Make sure the breakers are rated at the correct current for the circuit in case you haven't already. Hope that helps! Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 aghhh thats what i said last time i did Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 i will be using a extension cord for wiring these are the colors coming off of it my shit still hasnt got here so dont have mutimeter to check continuity but pretty sure brown (earth s ground) Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Hmmm, not sure on those wire colors as far as what wire goes to what terminal on the plug? Found this online: The "Hot" or "Live" wire is colored: * Black in the US, Canada and other countries using a similar 60 Hz household AC power system. * Brown in Europe and other countries using a similar 50 Hz household AC power system. The "Neutral wire is colored: * White in the US, Canada and other countries using a similar 60 Hz household AC power system. * Blue in Europe and other countries using a similar 50 Hz household AC power system. The "Grounding" or "Earth" wire is colored: * Green in a cord or flex in the US, Canada and other countries using a similar 60 Hz household AC power system. * Green and Yellow in Europe and other countries using a similar 50 Hz household AC power system. I would ohm out the wire though to be sure... Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 thanks but i figured out the hard way... lol got it up and running now... it will keep my freezer at a brisk 67-70 degrees Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Nate no touch 110 and up not to threadjack but /\ this.....i got hit off 220v from a central air unit..... the cap got me and knocked me back bout 5 feet....felt like a horse kicked me in the chest.....along with heart beating VERY hard...... not fun..... ill take 110 all day no problem but 220 is a no go for this guy Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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