AR 15 trigger question

[LT.Smoke]

Oh ok then... I want the 3.5-4.5lb grouping

[focalrock4life]

Oh ok then... I want the 3.5-4.5lb grouping

Well, I'm going to Suggest Geissele. in your range they have a variety of options. on the lower 3.5lb weight you're looking at the S3G trigger or SSA-E. for the higher end weight you're looking at the standard SSA, which in all honesty is probably your best bet for general application use. If you want more precise trigger control, the SSA-E would be a better fit.

you're going to pay for the above, but to me, they are worth it. the ssa runs about 170 online and the S3G can go as high a mid 200's.

oh and the geissele, comes already pre assembled with the disconector and disconnector spring in place with a slave pin. So its just a matter of punching out two pins with a 5/32 punch and then re installing. It comes with a nice vial of Aeroshell #6 grease and detailed instructions if you're not super comfortable.

Edited August 1, 2012 by focalrock4life

[LT.Smoke]

Im gonna scoop up the SSA-E...

[focalrock4life]

Im gonna scoop up the SSA-E...

good job! I know you'll enjoy

[LT.Smoke]

Ya then after that i think i want to free float my barrel and make a few other minor alteratons to my AR

[CLNSHVNnDRAGGN]

If you haven't picked one up yet check out Jard. I've used and liked Timney, Rock River, and some custom ones but I love my Jard.

[ROLEXrifleman]

Sorry for the late response man. I've been going nuts the last couple of days!

As far as the Geissele goes, great trigger if you have that money to drop. In my opinion though, unless you are using thsi as a dedicated precision gun or a varmit rifle it's more than what you need. Even in 3 gun, its an awesome trigger, but ive seen guys win with others as well.

I'm a big advocate in purpose built rifles. If thsi is our one and only AR and your trying to figure out what to get I wouldnt sugest this type of trigger as your big dollar purchase. There are other aspects of the rifle that will get you better bang for your buck results than this trigger. Building Ar's 101 isnt this thread so I leave that alone and tell you about triggers.

There are 3 major parts of the trigger that deal with the pull weight and feel.

1) The Hammer Shelf

2) Sear 9 part of triger)

3) Spring weights

Now these three things are different in quality by Mfg and Level of product. A pair of ported cylinder heads is going to have more attention to detail and build quality in a Lambo than a Camaro, get me?

Here is a BRAND NEW RRA trigger group out of a LPK that I opened just for this.

As you can see in this next picture a brand new Standard trigger does not have the attention to detail given to it as a higher end one. As you can see the front face of the trigger (the sear) has tooling marks all across it. It has a pronounced and sharp edge on top but it too will have the same marks on it. While this may be acceptable for a BATTLE rifle, a shooter who casualy uses his weapon on weekends for FUN NOT WAR will quickly become aware of it's faults.

(Also remember, the SPIKES you were thinking of is this exact same trigger only with a finish coating on it. The "problem" isnt being truely addressed simple band aided, so to speak.

Here is a complete picture of the trigger. The two red arrows show areas that should be polished to a mirror finish. But this isnt polishing you should do with a dremmel as the edge may become broken and issues with it's maiting to the hammer will arise. The more expensive teh trigger the more time is put into these areas. Simple bussiness, If i spend more money making a product it will cost more. This standard triggers are always within the $30-$60 range,

Now the one thing not being address in the standard trigger pictures is the hammer. The hammer is no diffrent than the sear in regards to tooloing marks etc. The major diffrence though is that the hammer has what is called a shelf. This is where the sear sits. the longer (or taller) the shelf the less distance the sear has to travel b4 the trigger breaks. Now that we know that you can guess what type of shelp a standard trigger has..... yup a VERY long one. Why? For safety! A standard trigger is designed for a retarted HS drop out! Even in war the lawyers are present and safety plays a huge role in why some things are used over others. Anway, you combine a sear with tool marks to a long shelf with tool marks and what do you have? That "griity" "rough" "long" "hard" pull everyone complains about! And we havent even thrown springs into the mix. Actualy we wont even talk about those cause thats a bandage type fix for a bad trigger as well. Springs, in my opinion, should only be used in conjunction with some other type of trigger work NOT AS A STAND ALONE FIX.

Anyway, lets get to what an expensive JP trigger looks like:

This is a used one I took out of my rifle with 300 rounds on it. No tool marks, it has retained a sharp edge even after use and has a mirror finish. As a matter of fact you can even see the reflection of the words on my bore paste in it. Also, notice the set screws for take up and over travel. JP uses yellow to signify a reduced weight spring. Nothing standard about this trigger.

And here we have a hammer. Again, notice where the differences are. No tool marks, polished and a sort shelf.

All these things add up to determining what pull weight your trigger will be. The lower the weight, generaly the insafer it was in teh past. Not so anymore though, now we can have trigger pulls in the OZ that are totaly safe. Just make sure your bring a bid wad for that though.

In the end i hope thsi info helps you make the decision thats right for you instead of going in blind. In my opinion your stock trigger with some work would put a huge smile on your face. If this rifle doesnt get shot that often i'd even say send me the FCG and let me work it over.

Anyway, hope thsi helps. Sorry teh pics arent the best. i wanted to use my nikon with macro lense but since I sprung that leak the other day I've ben wrapped up.

TTYL

[LT.Smoke]

Damn rolex i really appreciate the input bro. I knew you said that you were gonna post some info but this is way above and beyond what i expected man....

[Bigsix]

Im shooting a "stock" trigger with a little bit of love... in the areas Rolex pointed out... world of difference over a box stock trigger. Feels smooth, breaks real crisp... does exactly what I need it to, for its intended purpose, without spending huge coin on an aftermarket trigger. My AR is not a varmint or precision rifle. Its intent is purely to kick some ass. I may, down the road, pick up an aftermarket trigger the next AR build Im planning, which will be a much more precision oriented build with a scope etc....

Bobby, I agree with rolex.. if you were to sit down and spend a little time on whats in your rifle now, I think you might be more than surprised at the out come. Get rid of the noticeable tooling marks, and clean it up with some flitz and you might just like it, all the while, saving yourself some cash that you could blow on ammo.

Edited August 3, 2012 by Bigsix

[LT.Smoke]

Im shooting a "stock" trigger with a little bit of love... in the areas Rolex pointed out... world of difference over a box stock trigger. Feels smooth, breaks real crisp... does exactly what I need it to, for its intended purpose, without spending huge coin on an aftermarket trigger. My AR is not a varmint or precision rifle. Its intent is purely to kick some ass. I may, down the road, pick up an aftermarket trigger the next AR build Im planning, which will be a much more precision oriented build with a scope etc....

Bobby, I agree with rolex.. if you were to sit down and spend a little time on whats in your rifle now, I think you might be more than surprised at the out come. Get rid of the noticeable tooling marks, and clean it up with some flitz and you might just like it, all the while, saving yourself some cash that you could blow on ammo.

I think thats what i will do bro.... I am leaning toward this being precision/varmint tho so im gonna see what tlc will do and if that isnt enough then das trigger is in the future