I Have Question About My System Please Help

[LSN2meBoom916]

8 ga power and ground wire is "ok"...as in it will work, but the question rally is for how long, and will it limit your system...

I would upgrade to 4ga power and ground cables or run 2 lengths of 8ga for the power and ground since 2 8ga=1 4ga wire. You want to "feed" the amp as much power as possible so it can make the most power it can with out stressing itself or heating up since that wil cause distortion, sound bad, and eventually ruin your system.

Make sure your ground cable is under 18"-just ground it to the chasis of the car as close to the amp as possible, and use the biggest cable you can for the ground (4ga or bigger would be good). Also make sure where you ground it you sand off or remove the paint so it's a nice clean contact point since paint will inhibit the flow of current and make a bad ground or make it harder for your amp to do its job.

I would experiment with box placement as every car is a bit different.

It's "easier" to get good sound by pointing the subs back (towards the rear) so I would say go withthaty unless you think you could point the sub(s) forward and seal all the way around your box so no air/bass can go anywhere but forward. That method works too but it requires more time and effort to seal it properly.

At this power level you do not neeed a new alternator.

The most powerful battery you can get would be a good idea tho, and upgrade the ground at your battery for sure (add another big ground cable from battery to chassis).

Edited January 11, 2008 by LSN2meBoom916

[Bliles]

8 ga power and ground wire is "ok"...as in it will work, but the question rally is for how long, and will it limit your system...

I would upgrade to 4ga power and ground cables or run 2 lengths of 8ga for the power and ground since 2 8ga=1 4ga wire. You want to "feed" the amp as much power as possible so it can make the most power it can with out stressing itself or heating up since that wil cause distortion, sound bad, and eventually ruin your system.

Make sure your ground cable is under 18"-just ground it to the chasis of the car as close to the amp as possible, and use the biggest cable you can for the ground (4ga or bigger would be good). Also make sure where you ground it you sand off or remove the paint so it's a nice clean contact point since paint will inhibit the flow of current and make a bad ground or make it harder for your amp to do its job.

I would experiment with box placement as every car is a bit different.

It's "easier" to get good sound by pointing the subs back (towards the rear) so I would say go withthaty unless you think you could point the sub(s) forward and seal all the way around your box so no air/bass can go anywhere but forward. That method works too but it requires more time and effort to seal it properly.

At this power level you do not neeed a new alternator.

The most powerful battery you can get would be a good idea tho, and upgrade the ground at your battery for sure (add another big ground cable from battery to chassis).

wow u cleared up alot n i figured out the ohm thing yeah i have every thing connected was just wondering how i can make it better and with the wire n power u definintly make sense thanks alot i have the ground connected to the chasis in the trunk with a screw under the carpet it is sanded down and i have a question wud it sound like crap if i used two different brand subs? but same size?

[Clif]

Yea i would do somethen with the charging system first in that 89 plym

[IH8PunkRok]

yes it would dont consider it

mixing subs that is

Edited January 11, 2008 by IH8PunkRok

[XtremeSPL-SCAMMER]

yes it would dont consider it

mixing subs that is

i use big amps... so i have 3 strands of 4 gauge.. i am gonna eventully just go with 2/0 gauge or 1/0... the more power you get to your system the better..

[Bliles]

yo if my amp is mono block 4ohm n i have 2 4 ohm 12s i have 2 positives n 2 negatives on my amp do i have to connect my speakers to the same positive n negative?

[LSN2meBoom916]

wow u cleared up alot n i figured out the ohm thing yeah i have every thing connected was just wondering how i can make it better and with the wire n power u definintly make sense thanks alot i have the ground connected to the chasis in the trunk with a screw under the carpet it is sanded down and i have a question wud it sound like crap if i used two different brand subs? but same size?

Glad I could help.

yes it would dont consider it

mixing subs that is

Really?

What definitive info are you basing this on?

yo if my amp is mono block 4ohm n i have 2 4 ohm 12s i have 2 positives n 2 negatives on my amp do i have to connect my speakers to the same positive n negative?

No.

On your amp the +'s and -'s are connected inside the amp in one distribution "block" hence the term monoblock amp.

You can double up your +'s and -'s on the same terminals on the amp or use all the +'s and -'s and just hook one sub to each set it will be the same ohm load seen by the amp.

As far as mixing subs-it is 50/50 whether it will sound ok or not, plus you personally might not hear the difference but a trained ear or someone with knowledge of GOOD/BAD audio might tell from listening to it.

Here's my position:

MIXING SUBWOOFER SIZES:

It can be done, and it can sound good/loud and clear and even BETTER than not mixing them.

It is BY NO MEANS easily done, so unless you have: A PHD in the Field of Acoustical engineering, A magical Ouija Board with all the answers, Or a CRAZY amount of LUCK, I would not even attempt it w/ out MUCHO RESEARCH.

From what I have read/seen/heard/figured out myself, mixing subs is just like mixing any other speakers in a system, the only difference is that subs GENERATE LOTSA FORCE.

Thus, they can have an impact on how other speakers/subs act when sharing airspace (BE-IT ENCLOSURE AIRSPACE or simply INTERIOR CABIN SPACE-i.e. same car/vehicle).

So the key to mixing and matching speakers/subs is really dependent on your ability to predict HOW those speakers/subs will interact in the same area (here's where the PHD comes in)

So to figure out "how 2 speakers/subs/assembly of moving parts" motivated by the "magic" of bipolar (+ & -) electricity (I know, it's kinda scary) will interact with each other and have any amount of accuracy...you kinda gotta know ALL the characteristics of ALL the parts and materials involved or do A RIDICULOUS amount of testing to form enough "generalizations" as to the outcomes of different combinations of parts so that you can say "this will work best/well/not suck".

That said, the main thing involved in successfully mixing/matching subs is being able to predict how those products will work w/ each other and that can be PLANNED as long as you know all the stuff I just said ^^^^^.

If you have a small sub that hits higher frequencies better than a big sub and a big sub that hits super low frequencies with ease, the ideal would be use them together and just tell them to only do what they are good at. The prob with that is in CAR AUDIO you are really limited on space and can't have 70 speakers each playing a tiny range fo freq's and you have to let a sub/speaker cover a wider RANGE of freq's.

It's just like A COMPONENT SET of midrange speakers. Think about GOOD comp sets. The XOVER IS KEY. It tells each super specialized speaker what freq's to play and all that impedence matched/hi-tech X-over talk that means your MB Quarts and Focal mids will sound awsome and much better than ur sony xploders and audiovox garbage.

So If you limit your mixed & matched subs, and only let them do what they are good at while keeping them from trying to do each others jobs (play the same freq's) you can actually build a SUPER EFFICIENT setup, that sounds better than a "normal" one.

If you crossover the subs/speakers at different freq's you should have no OVERLAP and thus no probs at all. Like maybe your 15's (or biggest woofers present) playing @10hz-35hz, the 12's @ 35hz- 50hz, 10's @ 50hz-80hz and some 8's @ 80-200hz, and your mids on up from there. you should have the most balanced system EVER.

Thats exactly how CRAZY home audio guys do it and they get some CRAZY sound outta a setup like that. The only diff is in a HOME audio environment you have less PRESSURE cuz the room/interior cabin is so much bigger and less limitations on space taken up by a sub box for 1-12" that's the size of ur fridge. It happens.

....from the PINNED post-

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...=3938&st=20

I siad My piece in it trying to help... then they just kept throwing more and more confusion in at the end and NOT reading what had already been said so I gave up on that thread. If you REALLY wanna know-just read my posts on that thread-it's not a yes or no answer and I guess the majority just cant handle the grey area.

~Chris

Edited January 12, 2008 by LSN2meBoom916

[Bliles]

K Thanks I just have another question i have a really small trunk n i made a 12 inch L5 kicker fit with the box and i have my 12 inch earthquake in there would having them both connected mess up my system since i think the kicker is DVC and my Earthquake is SVC? cause i had it on last night like that n it didnt seem like it was messing up. Also i have the kicker facing my seat but the port facing the passenger side of my car and i have the earthquake facing away from the back seats n the port faces the same way should i turn them another way? its a really small trunk like i had to do stupid things to get that l5 in there

Edited January 12, 2008 by Bliles

[Bliles]

bump lsn2me please respond

[LSN2meBoom916]

Srry bro-ham I been bizzy.

Ok-your answer= MAYBE....but prolly not.

What is each sub rated "ohm wise"....The Earthquake sub is SVC (one voice coil) and it's 4ohm...correct?

The L5 Kicker 12" sub is DVC (2 coils)...but what configuration? Dual 2ohm? Dual 4ohm?

This we need to know-it wont say on the FRONT of the sub, you will have to look at the backside on the magnet it will say dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm.

HOPEFULLY it's dual 4 ohm becasue then you would dealing with 3-4 ohm voice coils.

If thats the case the amp will see that as essentially 3 SVC subs and it will be easier to wire correctly.

Please post answers to those^^ Q's and we can proceed.

Sorry for the late response man but I have a day Job, a project or 2 at all times and I try to keep up w/ the SMD Q's.