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Posted

how are you going to modify the ejection port and trigger guard on the holster so you can remove the gun? Or is it just going to snap into place?

I will need to heat up the ejection port to soften it up and lose some definition there to be able to draw it out. I dont think the trigger guard will be a problem.

Posted

sweet it looks sick so far!

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Posted

To me it looks like the trigger guard is sunk in way to much to be able to overcome that. I would triple check that before you start riveting. Just hate to see it get messed up.

"The strongest reason for people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- (Thomas Jefferson)

Posted

To me it looks like the trigger guard is sunk in way to much to be able to overcome that. I would triple check that before you start riveting. Just hate to see it get messed up.

I'm sure it is. I'm going to relieve the contours on the back (grey) piece that way I don't lose too much detail. The ejection port will be another story though.

I need to get a heat gun to help with all that, all I have is a little butane pen torch that has a "heat gun head" that works great for heat shrink tubing but I doubt .08 kydex will cooperate. I should have stuffed it with tape before molding. Meh, learning is occurring on my first attempt at this. Thanks for all the suggestions though err'body

Now to man up and cut these pieces.

Posted

I think either ace of menards has a heat gun on sale this week for under 20. I would check seemed like a good deal but idk.

"The strongest reason for people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- (Thomas Jefferson)

Posted

Damn nice shit man... How hard is it to truly do this... The photos make it probably look more simple than it is... I wouldnt mind trying to make a nice IWB conceal holster for my 1911... I have a Kingtuk already but i feel you can really never have enough gun goodies lol

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