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I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU.
I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice).
here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html
Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
Hello, I am new to the car audio as in really wanting it to sound good. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with a JVC KW-V120BT Head unit, Renegade REN 1100s 4 channel amp, Renegade Ren 850s Amp, Single 12' Kicker Comp D122 Sub, kenwood KFC-C6895P 6x8's, and Power Acoustik EF-60C Component 6.5"s.
What I really want to know is what I sent my LPF and HPF to on my 4ch amp and what I'll set my LPF on my Mono amp powering a single 12" kicker sub. From what I have seen online because I didst want to have to ask this question was that every speaker will have a different setting per what car its in, but what i want to know is a good starting point that I can start with without messing anything up before hand.
Here is the specs of everything
Kicker 12" comp D122, FR=27-500Hz, Peak 600watts-RMS 300watts, Sensitivity 88.3db, Impedance 2Ohms, Voice Coil Dual.
Power Acoustik EF-60c, FR=65- 20,000HZ, RMS 125watts, Sensitivity 92Db, 4Ohm's, Passive crossover Included, 2way full range.
Kenwood KFC-C6895P, FR=63- 20,000Hz, RMS 90watts, Sensitivity 88db, 4Ohm's, 3 way design
Renegade Ren 1100s, Rear--HP is from 80hz-2k hz, LP is from 50hz-250hz, Bass EQ 12,6,0. Front-- has 80hz-2k hz.
Renegade Ren850s, Has Bass EQ 0db-12db, Sub Sonic 15hz-55hz, Low Pass 40hz-150hz, Input level 5v- .02v
I have the PA Components up front in the doors and the Kenwood 6x8's in the rear doors, and of course the Sub in a ported box in the trunk.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I know I don't have a ton of money in my setup but of course want the best sound that I can atleast give myself. I will set the gains on them as that I can atleast do myself without help. also I know my head unit has a bunch of stuff built into it that I can do these setting on there, I just rather not do them on there as incase i lose power or someone messes with it and i lose everything saved. If anyone knows my HU and knows what it should be set that info would be helpful to. AGAIN Thanks for the help ahead of time...
So As i'm sure you all are, I myself are constantly upgrading my system and when i do, I retune it using my DD1 I have come to notice that when i re adjust the gains the system always seems louder from when i was listening to it prior to tuning it, even if i'm not changing out any equipment. Is it possible that because my amp is mounted to my box that the vibrations overtime slightly lowers the gain? or am I high.
I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of
2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs
4 Alpine type R component speakers
Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5
4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz
i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp
I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ?
or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4
Hope some one cant help
I have recently gotten a sundown audio zv4 15" d2. I'm looking for an amp that will power it along with a secondary battery and then the best way to build a box to go into a Toyota Corolla trunk
Whether it's sub port back, sub back port back etc
What are some great amp brands that will rms 2000-3500 watts and sustain play
It can be bang for buck or bigger price range
Also would a aero port be better or regular port space wise and effiecency wise
Thank you very much
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