CodyLucente Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 i am using my ferrad to give me a constant 14.4 volts but if i upgrade my electrical i would remove it and ad a 16v batt or a 16v capcell. i am using 0/2 awg wire Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 On capacitors in car audio: http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/nocaplesson.html I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeg321 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I don't think you realize what it takes to run a 16v system. Do some research bro. 4 fully loaded Fi sp4 15's 2 Crescendo bc5500s Crescendo c1100.4 6 focal mids Vifa tweets 5 XS Power d3100's Pioneer avh-p4200dvd All crammed into a mustang. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150569-mikeg321s-fi-nendo-mustang-getting-walled-videos-page-4/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Under no circumstances should you place a 16v battery in a 12v system either. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Your best solution may be to get 2 amps that are strappable and run them at 2 ohms strapped. Or just run 2 smaller amps at 1 ohm each and gain match them. Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 you have absolutely no clue what it takes to make a 14v or 16v system work. no, just because your battery is charging at 14v, doesnt make your car a 14v system. its 12v. a 14v system charges at 16-ish, and a 16v system charges at mid 18's. doing a 14v or 16 or 18v setup, requires you to basically get a $500 alternator with an external regulator so you can set the voltage to whatever. then you have to either get a step down module so you can run the stock electrical things in your car without frying the living fuck out of them, or you can install a stock alternator and run the car off of that, and have the $500 alternator run the stereo. doesn't that sound complicated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Socky Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 2 apsm's strapped, cheap too. Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 your right i knew nothing about 16v systems Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 by the way, its farad. and they're almost useless 95% of the time. that "8 farad" cap you have, coupled with say a 1000w amp, will drain in (about) less than a second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 back to the original issue i am looking for an amp that can power my subs at a 2ohm load they are power accoustik MOFO's rated 1500watts rms idk if they actually do that though Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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