kl0wn Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 No, not idle, just running at a stop light. Lol no I get 14.0+ at idle without any serious current draw. I am confused on what you are saying. So when you are driving, and come up to a red light, you stop, turn your music down/off, and your voltage is down at 12.4? 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 No, not full tilt, just 12.4 at a red light no bass or no serious current draw. Once I give it any throttle or take off the light it goes up to alt charging level, 14.0+. I just want to know what the resting voltages of people that have a D975, so I can see what to expect when my alt isn't putting charging power when I am stopped. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Sounds like a bad alternator SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 12.4 while idling sounds like a bad alternator, or just one that doesn't output enough current while turning at slower speeds (idling). isnt yours like 60 amps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Yeah I would be more worried about your alt at this point. Your battery should be resting higher but if you dont have a charger, then its probably resting that low due to the bad alt My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS.................. LOL. 12.4 at idle means you got some wacky ass alternator, or you must have some gay electric car that shuts off at a red light? edit: Alternators toast. ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Well I don't believe my alt is toast, because while driving, I never get below 13.2 at full tilt, and yes its a 60A alt. My car is what is in my sig, and not an electric car. Also how could it not be my battery, when the battery itself is sitting at 12.4 like that? I have drained it numerous times and had to get it jumped a lot. The battery has seen lots of abuse. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 alt just probably cant sustain the car enough while idling. probably outputs like 30 amps or some shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Alternators should be charging even at idle. 12.4v is what your battery will hold when the car is off. Meaning your alternator isn't charging at all at idle. Yes, it is charging while driving, but absolutely should be charging at idle. My truck idles a 14.3 when hot and that's stock electrical. My 1972 Monte Carlo with a cheap ass battery and the original wiring and alternator will never read below 13.8v. Just saying, you should replace or upgrade and Kranny is right about very low output. ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Dont get me wrong, In neutral, and Park, it normally is at 14.0+. Somtimes it goes down but the alt will kick in and jump it back up. it only does this when I am in drive and braking or stopped and there is nothing putting a higher RPM to the alt. I think it's a combination of the Honda's ELD system, and the low Amperage of the stock alt. And possibly my battery, I am sure it's not made for what I am doing to it. What I have is just a little bit before it's limits lol. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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