Sergeant_Skyrim Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 2003 Chevy Cavalier, 1 Hifonics BRZ 2100.1D on a 12" ZCON with an XP3000 in the trunk in addition to starter battery with 1/0 wire for power and grounds. Just got my Singer Alt back after sending it back because of charging issues I was having so he put a regulator on it and I'm bypassing the car's computer now and charging at about 14.8. Voltage is fine while driving and doesn't go below ~14 at full tilt while driving but at IDLE even with MUSIC OFF I'm going from 14.8 to 13.0 in an instant and then creeping down to 12.3 and possibly lower. I didn't let it go past 12.3 out of fear of burning something up but it was creeping down there. At this point I'm having to rev my engine at red lights just so that my car won't die and I need my car in order to work (delivery driver) and go to school. I'm just wondering if anybody's ever had an issue like this one, it's very annoying as I'm having to stay on the gas so the car won't die. Thanks EDIT: I'm trying to take care of this ASAP because I'm pretty busy with work and school and everything and don't have as much time to work on my car as I'd like Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 probably doesn't output much at idle. it happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunkjuice1 Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 See if he put an over drive pulley on it. Sometimes that can help spin alt to get better output at idle. There also been cases where the alt turn on speed isn't reached at idle. This is another question to ask regardless who makes your alt as all the other normal numbers we stare at. "IDLE" "MAX" are what most are so focused on that we kinda forget about what the alt is doing at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 I had the EXACT same problem with my singer alternator.. We tried everything like an overdrive pulley and smaller belt and eventually he told me my pulley doesn't have enough grip on the belt and the only solution would be fabbing up another idler pulley to help maintain belt to pulley contact. After I heard that, I said fuck it and sold it. Put my stock alt back in after that so I could actually drive without killing my bank. 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casket Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 2003 Chevy Cavalier, 1 Hifonics BRZ 2100.1D on a 12" ZCON with an XP3000 in the trunk in addition to starter battery with 1/0 wire for power and grounds. Just got my Singer Alt back after sending it back because of charging issues I was having so he put a regulator on it and I'm bypassing the car's computer now and charging at about 14.8. Voltage is fine while driving and doesn't go below ~14 at full tilt while driving but at IDLE even with MUSIC OFF I'm going from 14.8 to 13.0 in an instant and then creeping down to 12.3 and possibly lower. I didn't let it go past 12.3 out of fear of burning something up but it was creeping down there. At this point I'm having to rev my engine at red lights just so that my car won't die and I need my car in order to work (delivery driver) and go to school. I'm just wondering if anybody's ever had an issue like this one, it's very annoying as I'm having to stay on the gas so the car won't die. Thanks EDIT: I'm trying to take care of this ASAP because I'm pretty busy with work and school and everything and don't have as much time to work on my car as I'd like Send Mike an email and ask him Kenwood KIV-701Crescendo BC2000DDC Audio lvl3 w/ lvl4 upgrade, 18''6ft^3 @ 27hzMBquart ONX 4.125(2) PWX 6.5 (2) PWX 8(2) FT1300amp Singer with VCM @14.5Optima YT & D1200My Build Log every company has their niche market. hifonics has successfully captured the average ignorant teenage boy. Dont trip.. Ive never won anything in my life. Spite a 10lb cock and a bucket of balls at birth,......Yeah.. like i said, nothing in my life. meh, im cool with it, fuck it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunkjuice1 Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Its also good for OP to get some more questions lined up and answered. Chris can you take pic of alt to show how much belt is touching the alt pulley? even with a fair amount of contact if your system is off theres not much load on motor to start slip. From what I have read slip is more prone with a combination of little belt contact and when alt is under load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 probably doesn't output much at idle. it happens. Was told 140a @ 800 rpms which is one of the reasons I bought it. Is there any way to get it tested to see how many amps it's actually putting out at idle? And how the hell my voltage just goes down and down that fast while at idle? Feels like the current is going somewhere but I don't have anything pulling a lot See if he put an over drive pulley on it. Sometimes that can help spin alt to get better output at idle. There also been cases where the alt turn on speed isn't reached at idle. This is another question to ask regardless who makes your alt as all the other normal numbers we stare at. "IDLE" "MAX" are what most are so focused on that we kinda forget about what the alt is doing at idle. His newest over drive pulley is on it right now, and I even got a brand new belt that fits nice and snug. Is there any way to bypass the alt turn on speed? I'm now idling somewhere around 700-800 rpms I had the EXACT same problem with my singer alternator.. We tried everything like an overdrive pulley and smaller belt and eventually he told me my pulley doesn't have enough grip on the belt and the only solution would be fabbing up another idler pulley to help maintain belt to pulley contact. After I heard that, I said fuck it and sold it. Put my stock alt back in after that so I could actually drive without killing my bank. Really hope I don't have to spend much more money on this...I'm just about to the point cash-wise where I could've gotten a Mechman 270a :/ 2003 Chevy Cavalier, 1 Hifonics BRZ 2100.1D on a 12" ZCON with an XP3000 in the trunk in addition to starter battery with 1/0 wire for power and grounds. Just got my Singer Alt back after sending it back because of charging issues I was having so he put a regulator on it and I'm bypassing the car's computer now and charging at about 14.8. Voltage is fine while driving and doesn't go below ~14 at full tilt while driving but at IDLE even with MUSIC OFF I'm going from 14.8 to 13.0 in an instant and then creeping down to 12.3 and possibly lower. I didn't let it go past 12.3 out of fear of burning something up but it was creeping down there. At this point I'm having to rev my engine at red lights just so that my car won't die and I need my car in order to work (delivery driver) and go to school. I'm just wondering if anybody's ever had an issue like this one, it's very annoying as I'm having to stay on the gas so the car won't die. Thanks EDIT: I'm trying to take care of this ASAP because I'm pretty busy with work and school and everything and don't have as much time to work on my car as I'd like Send Mike an email and ask him Already did, just trying to see if I can get any other help quicker. I'm unable to change it back to the stock alt til at the earliest this coming weekend Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 ecotec engine. look it up. its common with that engine. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Its also good for OP to get some more questions lined up and answered. Chris can you take pic of alt to show how much belt is touching the alt pulley? even with a fair amount of contact if your system is off theres not much load on motor to start slip. From what I have read slip is more prone with a combination of little belt contact and when alt is under load. Yeah I can go do that in a few. But if what you're saying is true, then while I'm at idle shouldn't I be able to turn my system on, which would in turn create a load which would then make the alternator charge? Sorry if that sounds as confusing as it does to me, I'm trying to think of a better way to word it Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 ecotec engine. look it up. its common with that engine. What are you saying though? I do have the 2.2L ecotec on my Cav. This is the first I'm hearing of this though, if I would've known this would happen I wouldn't have bought the alt in the first place...seems like I just wasted a good chunk of change unless I want to rev at red lights xD Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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