Loud & Low 8th Gen Civic - Time to say good bye to her.

[scooter99]

Its been down in the 20's at night and barely scraping the 40's during the day. Its cold for Sac!

[scooter99]

So I did do some work yesterday, but it was a fight the whole time. I have pics and a couple of videos ill put up later on, probably tonight, of some of it.

I started running power yesterday. Before that I ran some numbers which is on the video, and then got busy. I wanted to see where I was and what I gained with the new equipment.

After that I pulles the battery, and tried pulling the alt which turned into a nightmare and a blessing all at once. The tensioner for the belt, had sheared off a bolt and it was an absolute nightmare getting it all out. I did get the alt out however.

Now today I have other plans to do, but I also need to go over to Honda, and get some parts, ordered at least, so I can get all thos back in. I have other things I can do in the meantime.

Pics tonight, stay tuned!

[scooter99]

Sorry I didn't get the pics up guys.

Yesterday was very frustrating for me. I'm still very frustrated. I didn't plan to work on the car at all, cause I was golfing with my brother. But I got to trying to get the enclosure figured out and CJVue came over and got the specs on the sub. We found out there just isn't enough room in there for the 4th these guys needed. That's not the frustrating part. So it's back to ported. I'm trying to get a decently low, but musical enclosure, while being able to have a plexi back so the subs motors, which are pretty damn close to flawless, can be seen. But no matter what I seem to do, I can't get close to the 34-35hz tuning I want without a really long port.

I've tried: square ports which end up being too long and take up the back wall which impede the ability to have plexi back there. I've tried round ports from the deck down, but looking at 2 5's, or 3 4's they end up like right next to or right behind the subs and that may cause issues, which I honestly don't understand. Doing those from the baffle back, there isn't enough room to have them not be external and there's no room for that and the size of the enclosure.

I'm honestly so very discouraged right now, I'm not even wanting to deal with it. I don't know what I'm going to do or where I'm going to go from here. I know I have 2 weeks of vacation left and I have no enclosure design anymore.

I'll report back later. I'm off to take the kids to school and stay for an award my daughter is getting.

Any suggestions or comments are always welcome. Thanks!

[funky]

Sounds like the enclosure is not deep enough. After seeing some of the other stuff you did in here I am sure you will figure it out. Plexiglass port and back? Then you can go where you need to with port and still see through?

[Kyblack76]

Sorry for the frustrations bro.....

[scooter99]

I'm kind of just spazzing out I guess.

Thanks Kyle.

Funky-I like that idea, ill look into it.

[Wicks]

Sorry I didn't get the pics up guys.

Yesterday was very frustrating for me. I'm still very frustrated. I didn't plan to work on the car at all, cause I was golfing with my brother. But I got to trying to get the enclosure figured out and CJVue came over and got the specs on the sub. We found out there just isn't enough room in there for the 4th these guys needed. That's not the frustrating part. So it's back to ported. I'm trying to get a decently low, but musical enclosure, while being able to have a plexi back so the subs motors, which are pretty damn close to flawless, can be seen. But no matter what I seem to do, I can't get close to the 34-35hz tuning I want without a really long port.

I've tried: square ports which end up being too long and take up the back wall which impede the ability to have plexi back there. I've tried round ports from the deck down, but looking at 2 5's, or 3 4's they end up like right next to or right behind the subs and that may cause issues, which I honestly don't understand. Doing those from the baffle back, there isn't enough room to have them not be external and there's no room for that and the size of the enclosure.

I'm honestly so very discouraged right now, I'm not even wanting to deal with it. I don't know what I'm going to do or where I'm going to go from here. I know I have 2 weeks of vacation left and I have no enclosure design anymore.

I'll report back later. I'm off to take the kids to school and stay for an award my daughter is getting.

Any suggestions or comments are always welcome. Thanks!

You just replayed about every thought I was going through when I was designing my box.

I wanted the same thing and it seemed that there was just no room for the port(s).

Food-for-thought:

Don't get too hung up on those Torres numbers.

On paper I'm tuned to about 37-38Hz. That was discouraging, but I had no choice so I went with it and built the box.

When I actually measured my impedance of the box installed in the car, I'm actually tuned to about 32-33hz depending on whether the door is open or closed.

So there's a LOT of other factors that will affect the final tuning number.

I would guess there are a lot of guys out there that are tuned to a different number then they think they are.

We'll see as more and more IM-SG's work there way into the field.

[scooter99]

I follow you. Can you message me on FB. I have a question I sent you and if the answer is the way I think it is, then I"m full GO on this!!

[cjvue]

Let's talk regular ported instead. Those subs have too stiff of a suspension to work well in a 4th.

[scooter99]

So here are the pics I was going to put up the other day. It's been a rough couple days. Not the way I pictured my vacation going. But I'm hoping that things will look up here very soon. I think I'm back in the right direction, and as soon as parts come in, I'll be back at it on the power portion. Pics.

Some of the equipment for this install, as well as some other stuff. Got a new belt, a clamp meter, XS Power D4700 Battery, and a Singer Alternator.

D4700 ready for a charge. Been sitting for a while

Singer 185A High Output Alt! Sexy!

Pre work numbers. See the video for more numbers. It dropped after this and I never was able to get it to rest above 11.6v after this.

Highest clamp I got was 67.6A. This was the headlights, highs, heater full bore, and all 4 window switches pulled. No system to see a draw that way, but this is about what I could pull out of the stock alt.

Stinger SPP1200. Been a good little battery, but it's time to go.

The cage that came with it. I'd love to have one of these built for my D4700. That'd be sweet. Drop in and done.

I'm going to try and either get this mount out, or build something on top of it so I can have a little more sturdy mount and a way to hold the D4700 down.

Oem Alt. Getting everything unbolted.

The orientation of it all.

This is where I skipped a few steps. I had a hell of a time getting the tensioner to work properly. Come to find out, there was a problem. A bolt had sheared off, not allowing the tensioner to move the belt. I didn't find this out until I removed the bolts to the alt and then pried off the old belt. Wasn't worried about it cause I have a new one to go on.

This bracket is what holds the tensioner's hydraulic part on, and that is what broke. The black mess you see is from the bushing that was destroyed.

Bolt sheared off inside the bracket.

Hydraulic tensioner, pulling the bushing out.

bushing is in bad shape! I stopped there. I've ordered new parts, new bracket, new tensioner, bolts, and another part that doesn't pertain to the install, but I had a cracked piece for the radiator fluid to the block. It had a crack in it. So that's it for now. Parts are on a 2 day shipping so should be here tomorrow or Friday and I'll be back at it.