scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 Pics are uploading now. Should be up in a little while. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
WastedTalent Posted December 29, 2013 Report Posted December 29, 2013 Scooter, what I like about your build is you hit snags and you just shrug it off. lol. Like you found that the belt was about 8" too long so "eh, whatever. other stuff I can do" looks good man. Sheena = pedobear
scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks. I learned that because of the time issues I always have. I only have certain amounts of time to work, this just happens to be my vacation which is why so much is getting done. But I don't have time to run to the store 20 times so I end up bouncing around on the build alot. Notice it went from enclosure to power without finishing the enclosure? That's why. Also why I buy everything I need before I start. Although I may have to order some more 2/0. I won't know till tomorrow though. Thanks for noticing! Pics will be up very soon. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 Ok let's get this party started. Today's supplies. 1 spool of SHCA OFC 2/0, 1 Spool of SHCA OFC 1/0, 1 spool of SHCA OFC 4ga, lots of 2/0, 1/0, 4ga lugs, SHCA Shrink, Techflex, SHCA fuse holders, 250a fuses, 300a fuses and some soldering goods. Not pictured, are the SHCA 2/0 sexiness fuse holders. First things first I decided to go ahead and make a buss bar to come right off the alt. There just isn't a ton of room in the engine bay and I figure this would clean things up quite a bit. So I cut one to the length I needed after marking where each lug will go. 1 2/0 to the front battery fuse holder, 1 2/0 to the passenger side rear battery bank fuse holder, 1 2/0 to the driver side rear battery bank fuse holder, 1 4ga to the starter, and 2 4ga to the oem fuse box. Then I drilled out the hole for the post on the alt. I was able to get it on there, but it was difficult. So I decided to use this and put a little 45* edge on the hole. This will allow for the socket to get in there and stay on it to tighten the nut. Now that will buy me some room for tightening. Then I got it on and tightened up nicely. Next order of business is to drill out the holes. Keeping in mind I only have a drill press I bought for $20 at Harbor Freight, I don't have toolmaker tools or project db tools to do this with. So it's obviously not going to be as nice as theirs. But it'll work. I started drilling out each hole with a pilot hole. Why? So that when I go to put the right sized bit in there, it has a hole to center off of which is in the right spot not trying to guess or have to get down and look really close as to where the big bit is supposed to hit. Then I go back with the bigger bit, and it's smooth and quick work. Centers itself on the pilot hole, and bam, done! Then I took it over to my bench grinder with the wire brush wheel and cleaned it up a bit. I like this brushed look personally. I could polish it up probably, but when it's going ot be covered by the beautiful copper lugs, and also get filthy under the hood, I don't want to put all that effort in for that. Next I grabbed my tap, 1/4-20, and tapped all the holes. The ridges of the 45 I did on the main post hole, weren't sitting well with me. So I grabbed my dremel with a grinding stone and cleaned her up. After Put her back on, and now it's time to get to wiring. This should be fun!! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 First of the big 3. Old 1/0 Tsunami Comp cable on top. New 2/0 SHCA OFC cable on the bottom. Little bit of a difference huh! LOL Then dressed it up with some techflex and heat shrink. Now I did not get any orange SHCA shrink. So I decided I had some orange here in the shop. I'll just use it instead. Doesn't say SHCA, but that's ok. The rest of the shrink will. Cable #2 Oh did I mention that i'm putting all the ends on the bench grinder? Yes, giving all the ends a brushed look to them. Cleans them up nicely. So the first cable is on, up on the upper left there, and that goes to the back of the engine bay (THAT WAS FUN, EFF YOU HONDA), and the second goes from that same mounting spot on the block, to the alt you can see on the bottom right there. Closer look. Both cables closer look. Here's the effed up spot in the back. I couldn't get my big arm in there and see where I was trying to screw it in at the same time. Plus hold that heavy wire. So I dropped the screw about 6 times before I finally got it, and then yelled out EFF YOU I WIN!!! BITCH! Then it was time to start on the positive cable runs. Since I was on that side of the bay, I just went that route. Got the fuse holders back on and the front cross member bar. Then I got the first positive 2/0 cable ran from the buss bar to the fuse holder. You can see how well this SHCA 2/0 bends. Very very well. I'm impressed. That Tsunami 1/0 wouldn't bend like this, and it was smaller. The view from behind the blocks, and straight down on the buss bar. 1 down, 5 to go. Got the second one put on. Why are they going in different directions you may ask? Well because the one on the top goes to the front battery which is across the bay. The one on the bottom goes to the rear passenger side battery bank in the trunk. Got the front battery cable made up and on. Connection to the front battery. Should only be two connections on this terminal. This 2/0 connection, and then the headlight connection, which you'll not really see because it will be under this. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 Next I got the cable for the third fuse holder put on. You may also notice that I swapped the positions on the other holders. It just worked out better for the front battery holder to be up front. it looks cleaner and routing was much easier. Close up. Now this fuse holder is for the driver side rear battery bank. These are not attached yet. That bar needs to be painted so I wanted to wait to zip tie these on it until that's done. But this is close to what it will look like. 3 down, 3 to go. Next I had to address the fuse box. pull the holder off, and this exposes the screws for the power to the box. One for the alt, and the other is for the box, I guess, to power the vehicle components. Old cables. I could have tried to save those ends, that screw to the box, but they had already been soldered and bent before. So I made it so I could just use new copper lugs on this one. I can't remember who suggested this, taking the thinner solder and winding it up to make a bigger solder, but thanks. I saw it on one of the build threads and asked about it, I just can't remember which one it was. Good tip. It worked well. Got the 4 ga cables on, and routed across the top cowl. I wasn't really wanting to run any more across the front of the motor on the cross member and this makes it look really good I think. Got them installed on the box. 5 down 1 to go. Last is the starter. This is what I took out. I soldered a piece of 4ga Tsunami on to it last time. If I could honestly get to the starter, I'd just replace it all the way back there. But the starter is an absolute pain to get to, and I don't have time for that right now. Maybe in the future. So I soldered some new SHCA OFC 4ga on and dressed it up. Then added it to the top 4ga I already put up. 6 out of 6 done. Got the grounds done on the other side, turns it into the Big 4. 2 grounds on the other side, and 2 on this side. This one for the battery had to be done under the tray. It was a biotch to do. Also lost a bolt to the tray so I'll have to locate that. But the other ground goes directly under this one on the bottom leg mounts of the tray. Then to the block. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Posted December 29, 2013 Cleaned up a bit and finished look at the wiring. Resting at 12.84v Started her up, and she's at 14.58v with the lights on and the ac blowing. Much better. I don't have anything to put more load on it. But I'll get that taken care of here very soon. Daytime shots. So that's it. Today I need to pull the aluminum pieces and the battery tray and get them painted. Once that's done, I can get this stuff installed in it's final spot and all tied down. Not sure if I'll get my runs to the back done today or not. I doubt it. I'll have more soon. I go back to work on Thursday, so things are going to slow down a bit unfortunately. But I'm going to try and do a little bit every afternoon. I'll be getting off work earlier (2:30pm) so I may have an hour or two to work on it at night. My goal still stands of playing by Autorama in February. Thanks for tuning in! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
iball1804 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Posted December 29, 2013 Absolutely phenomenal work scooter. I love seeing updates on this build!! Keep it up man
Trey_Dog650 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Posted December 29, 2013 smex! 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.
elflako17 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Posted December 29, 2013 OOOHH MYYYY FUCKIINNN GODDD this is PURE SEXXXXX 2010 Mazda 3 *Rebuild Time* Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500 Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2 Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1 Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors) Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4 Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3 The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11
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