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Loud & Low 8th Gen Civic - Time to say good bye to her.


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Posted

Yeah, that was about as clear as mud. I'll just wait for pics. lol

Lane AKA HeroKight

'96 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4

R.I.P. Molliboo

$200 for new tires, on a jeep!? Is she stealing them or building them with a heat gun and rubber bands?

You hear that????


That's a category 5 shit storm coming

n8: hey you doing today. What's it like being a bitch? you can pm me if you'd like to explain why you arent one. Just like you did for your vs threads.

^^^Rules. Follow them.^^^

Posted

LOL. I figured as much. To make it a little easier to wrap your head around it. The DEI 528T, is basically a regular relay, with a potemeter on it to adjust it. BASICALLY. I know there's more to it than that, but I was going basics. I don't even fully understand how it works.

I'm going to try and get some time this weekend and get that enclsoure finished. At least built, and start on the port extension, and smoothing it out. We'll see what the weekend holds.

Posted

So I had a great day today. Wasn't starting out so well. I decided to get the rest of the pieces cut for the enclosure today, so I can work on it this week because we have kind of a full sunday out of town, and had some things going on this morning. Then I went to go out and get started, and it started raining!! GREAT!!!!!!!

But the rain wasn't bad and kept letting off, so I powered through!! Here's the progress today!

Got today started with working on the port. Got the Rage Gold out and my filler tile I have for mixing.

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This is what the steps of the port look like now.

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First coat on. You can see here it was raining a bit. The wet drop spots on the wood.

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While that dried, I decided to get the enclosure going again. I took the floor out, and put it down on the trunk floor to mark out the amp rack radius. Remember it's not all on center because of how the wheel well was built off center of the trunk. So I decided to measure out on the board not the amp rack.

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I cut the initial cuts with the regular saw.

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Then finished off the corners with the jig saw.

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So the middle piece there will be used for supporting the upper floor, and the outer piece will be attached to the side walls and the rest of the enclosure.

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Time to glue and screw.

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One side done. I was going to make new sides, and then finish nail them from the outside, since I figured out that the body of the enclosure can fit in the trunk. But then I decided eff it I already had these cut, I'll just fill it in and sand it down.

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Posted

Other side, top and bottom on. The front is on also but that's not glued. Just there.

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So to make the floor removable and effective by being able to fasten it, I had to have a piece up front.

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Then I cut the second piece. This is the one that will be removable.

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Took it out and flipped it over so I could screw it from the bottom.

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Measured it out. Lots of screws here. But it'll be solid.

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Used a counter sink to drill em all out.

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Now some glue. I spread it out with a chip brush.

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Then screwed it down.

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Pre drilled for the inserts. Remember this is the piece that will be removable, so it needs to be able to be unscrewed, re screwed as many times as I need without stripping out the screw holes. Just screwing into the wood has a tendency to do that over time.

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Next I inserted some threaded inserts. These are for some 8-32 screws that I have tons of. These are super tight, and will be against the floor of the trunk, so I'm sure these will be fine.

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These however, I'm not sure about. The holes are real close to the end of the board, and so I decided to ca glue them.

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Here it is in place.

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Pulled the front piece.

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Glue down

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Pre drilled it with the countersink bit.

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Posted

And screwed it in. This front piece is obviously permanent. As you can see here, the removable piece, goes in under this front piece, and then screws down tight through it into the threaded inserts on the removable piece.

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I was having some issues with the inserts sticking out over the edge.

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So I cut the edges off.

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Got the back cut. Measuring out to drill holes for the screws.

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Counter sink bit, all the way around, ever 2".

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Then I measured out, and drilled for the port.

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I forgot I needed to do the round over on one side of the port. So I got the mini router out.

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This is pretty tight. I left it down a bit to I could get some glue in there on the top. No way I can get glue on the sides. But I'll get some on the seams, and when I put the back wall on.

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Posted

Glued and screwed and in place on the front.

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and on the back

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Top too. Again, every 2".

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Time to double baffle it.

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Screwed it together in the corners for now.

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Time to measure out for the sub holes.

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Then I sanded down the port to get it ready for the second coat.

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This is the second coat.

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Gonna need one more I think when this is done and sanded. But it's close.

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That's it for tonight.

Gonna be out of town most of the day tomorrow. But we'll see if I can get out and sand this down and get a final coat on tomorrow night, and then also see if I can get the sub holes cut in the baffle too.

It's getting there folks!!

Posted

looks awesome dude

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

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