Twostrokeking Posted January 18, 2014 Report Posted January 18, 2014 Thaat is flocking sexy My Truck BuildSpending money on things I don't need, to impress others I don't know.At the end of the day for me its about the love of customizing anything and everything to limits or even past reasonable.-SkyHighCarAudio
thefourth Posted January 18, 2014 Report Posted January 18, 2014 So much attention to detail, I'm loving it. Taking notes Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd.
Jbarrera93 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Posted January 18, 2014 Okay question about the trunk pop, does it already come with the mechanism to pop open the trunk? is so have you tried splicing in to that to have a more reachable switch? My cousin has pop trunk in his car (what it's called in texas) and he spliced into the trunk pop switch that was in the glove box and added a switch closer to the steering wheel. He used a switch that has a forward backward off setting http://www.google.com/imgres?sa=X&biw=1280&bih=929&tbm=isch&tbnid=EBLMz-gFguS3PM%3A&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.robotroom.com%2FDPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html&docid=JIwKAav-0W1VHM&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.robotroom.com%2FMotor-Switch%2FMotor-direction-wiring-and-toggle-switch.jpg&w=400&h=355&ei=9pHaUuHlC-blyQG2xYCADA&zoom=1&ved=0CKEBEIQcMBI&iact=rc&dur=224215&page=1&start=0&ndsp=24 like this to control the pump and then added another simple on and off switch to shut off the current. Don't know if this helps but this how it is usually done down here. 2001 Chevy Blazer LS Kenwood KDC-HD552U 2 12" SDC 2.5 D4 Fi SP4 18" 4 Sundown SA-12's HiFonics BE 1200.1 Soundstream RUB1.2500D Looking for a 5k XS Power D3100 4 Soundqubed 6.5's (Pro Audio) 2 Soundqubed 3-Way 6.5's 2 Soundqubed Super Tweeters
basshead7890 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Posted January 18, 2014 Thanks Kyle. Also thanks for chatting with me about my equipment thoughts yesterday. So as some of you may have seen on my status update, I was contemplating moving equipment. I think most of you know how I am and customer service to me is priority number one in the equipment I buy. There are brands out there that might be good, but I won't buy them if the cs is bs! Pun intended. So anyway I was thinking of going to different amps, but I've decided to stay with what I have. Partly because money is an issue and I'll never be able to sell or trade out what I have amp for amp. If you're out there, and you wanna trade me I'm happy to listen to offers, but I'm moving forward for now. As of right now no amps have had power. Last night, i got the sub amp rack flocked, and tonight I'll get those pics up as well as the amp rack cleaned off. I'm not sure how it's goign to look cause things got a little sideways with the job, but we'll both find out at the same time. That's all for now, just a little update in case folks were wondering what was going on. If you have questions feel free to ask, I'm happy to answer. Happy friday!! Would you be interested in 2 Skar Sk2500s + cash? for the 3500s My Build Log 95 Honda Accord Nook HD+ tablet Team Ascendant Audio 18" 2 Skar Audio SK-2500.1D Crescendo Audio C1100.4 2006 Civic, Fi SP4 12", bc3500 Build log
scooter99 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Posted January 18, 2014 Its always turns out better the second time around, but I think it turned out good. I might give flocking a try but I need a compressor first, been wanting one for years. You don't need a compressor. Here's a link to the site I bought my stuff at. You'll notice at the bottom, there is what's called a mini flocker. This requires no air, no compressor, nothing. You basically shake it and sprinkle the flocking on the product. Like a big salt shaker basically. Okay question about the trunk pop, does it already come with the mechanism to pop open the trunk? is so have you tried splicing in to that to have a more reachable switch? My cousin has pop trunk in his car (what it's called in texas) and he spliced into the trunk pop switch that was in the glove box and added a switch closer to the steering wheel. He used a switch that has a forward backward off setting http://www.google.com/imgres?sa=X&biw=1280&bih=929&tbm=isch&tbnid=EBLMz-gFguS3PM%3A&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.robotroom.com%2FDPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html&docid=JIwKAav-0W1VHM&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.robotroom.com%2FMotor-Switch%2FMotor-direction-wiring-and-toggle-switch.jpg&w=400&h=355&ei=9pHaUuHlC-blyQG2xYCADA&zoom=1&ved=0CKEBEIQcMBI&iact=rc&dur=224215&page=1&start=0&ndsp=24 like this to control the pump and then added another simple on and off switch to shut off the current. Don't know if this helps but this how it is usually done down here. It's already wired to my alarm, but the wire that my alarm says is for the trunk pop solenoid, is not there. SO they must have wired it differently. I need to clean up the wiring under there anyway, so I think I'm going to pull it at apart at some point and figure it out, but right now, I don't have that kind of time. I do have a lever on the floor by the driver door that I pull, no switch. I guess I could always tap in the back at the solenoid too, which I may do in the end. Maybe I'll do it so that the button, or the alarm trunk pop key opens the trunk. I'll get it licked, it's just gonna take time. Thanks Kyle. Also thanks for chatting with me about my equipment thoughts yesterday. So as some of you may have seen on my status update, I was contemplating moving equipment. I think most of you know how I am and customer service to me is priority number one in the equipment I buy. There are brands out there that might be good, but I won't buy them if the cs is bs! Pun intended. So anyway I was thinking of going to different amps, but I've decided to stay with what I have. Partly because money is an issue and I'll never be able to sell or trade out what I have amp for amp. If you're out there, and you wanna trade me I'm happy to listen to offers, but I'm moving forward for now. As of right now no amps have had power. Last night, i got the sub amp rack flocked, and tonight I'll get those pics up as well as the amp rack cleaned off. I'm not sure how it's goign to look cause things got a little sideways with the job, but we'll both find out at the same time. That's all for now, just a little update in case folks were wondering what was going on. If you have questions feel free to ask, I'm happy to answer. Happy friday!! Would you be interested in 2 Skar Sk2500s + cash? for the 3500s Thank you but no. I think I'm just going to stay where I'm at. Thanks for the offer though. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Jbarrera93 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Posted January 18, 2014 Yea wiring straight to the solenoid will probably be best, I've seen a few cars that when they press the trunk pop on they're alarm remote the trunk raises and if they press it again it goes down but that is a whole other wiring job all together. Just throwing out some of what I've seen done. Best of luck. 2001 Chevy Blazer LS Kenwood KDC-HD552U 2 12" SDC 2.5 D4 Fi SP4 18" 4 Sundown SA-12's HiFonics BE 1200.1 Soundstream RUB1.2500D Looking for a 5k XS Power D3100 4 Soundqubed 6.5's (Pro Audio) 2 Soundqubed 3-Way 6.5's 2 Soundqubed Super Tweeters
scooter99 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Posted January 19, 2014 Yeah that'd be nice, but I'm ok with a button in the back that does down, just like the front. I'm finding that if I have it hooked to the alarm too, that'll help big time. I have to admit the annoyance of not being able to open the trunk from the key fob right now. Having to get in the car, turn it on, hit the button, etc. That's gonna have to be fixed! FOR SURE!! Thanks for the info. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Trey_Dog650 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Posted January 19, 2014 And then! 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.
elflako17 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Posted January 19, 2014 is this thing playing yet??? (sarcastic voice) lmaoo 2010 Mazda 3 *Rebuild Time* Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500 Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2 Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1 Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors) Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4 Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3 The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11
FieroGrande Posted January 19, 2014 Report Posted January 19, 2014 Love how you are so great at posting all this helpful information. Good luck with your wiring.
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