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Loud & Low 8th Gen Civic - Time to say good bye to her.


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Posted

Yeah it's not the best thing. For sure.

The coilovers ride great. Actually the weight calmed them down a bit. They used to be pretty bouncy, I'm sure it was just my set up, and now they're nice and smooth. Love it. I just have always wanted bags. I know that if I have to replace these, which will pretty much be a must within the next year, I'm gonna want to go better. Why stay where I'm at if I can upgrade. So I'll look into the bag set up sometime this year.

I'm going to sit down and see about breaking the finishing up in stages. There's so much work to do, some changes to make, and I don't want to get overwhelmed. I also want to start seeing some finishing going on. So I'll start doing that soon.

Think I'm going to scrap and start over on the doors. Need to find some new replacement panels that won't cost me a ton of money. May need to visit some yards soon.

Posted

Good thing I have unlimited data, for this build right here. Otherwise I'd have to call my service provider and tell then, "It's not me, it's all Scott's fault".

On the real though, I just got caught up and its still one of my favorite builds dude. Thanks for documenting the build so fully. If anyone EVER needed to know how to do a build in that gen Civic, this build log should be enough for them.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Posted

Well your not the only one with the thought of doing a air ride system and keep my bass in a small ass car lol

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

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Posted

One thing I will say about air

I got into cars doing air ride mini trucks

One of my first designs I ever did was for a under roll pan tank setup, with twin compressors and regulators mounted on the sides. All of it was bolted to a tube steel frame that tied into the frame.

And that truck laid body.

So it can be done without even entering the trunk.

Just takes a lot of measurements and designs.

And for shows, I would just make a stealthy hookup under the set or something for some baby nitrogen tanks, so your compressors won't be annoying

Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ

My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)

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Posted

Well your not the only one with the thought of doing a air ride system and keep my bass in a small ass car lol

What'd you come up with? Anything to share for info?

Good thing I have unlimited data, for this build right here. Otherwise I'd have to call my service provider and tell then, "It's not me, it's all Scott's fault".

On the real though, I just got caught up and its still one of my favorite builds dude. Thanks for documenting the build so fully. If anyone EVER needed to know how to do a build in that gen Civic, this build log should be enough for them.

Thanks for the kind words man. I appreciate it. I'm kind of taking a little break from any building. Let the home life recover a bit, lol. I'll be back at it soon. Matter of fact, I have more to post, I just haven't gotten to it yet. I may get some stuff up today. We'll see what the afternoon brings. I think I have another 60-75 pics on deck.

One thing I will say about air

I got into cars doing air ride mini trucks

One of my first designs I ever did was for a under roll pan tank setup, with twin compressors and regulators mounted on the sides. All of it was bolted to a tube steel frame that tied into the frame.

And that truck laid body.

So it can be done without even entering the trunk.

Just takes a lot of measurements and designs.

And for shows, I would just make a stealthy hookup under the set or something for some baby nitrogen tanks, so your compressors won't be annoying

Ya know, I thought about something similar, tank behind the bumper, and then compressor/compressors on the sides, and then mounting the controls and wires somewhere else. My concerns about that is:

- if there's ever an issue, and it lays out or looses pressure, and I have to get under it, how do it when it's down?

- wouldn't I need to protect the compressors from the elements under there to prolong the life of them? Dirt, rain, road grime, etc.

- what would happen if I was in an accident/rear ending? What are the dangers?

- What are the dangers with the nitrogen tanks, and them being right under where my kids sit? Would they be better off on the trunk lid or hidden away in the trunk somewhere? How big of tanks are we talking about and what would I need?

- as with the other stuff, what are the dangers of them being back there in an accident?

I'm not looking to go out and roll front back side to side, and hippity hop it. I just want a nice ride, and to sit low, and then when I need to, be able to raise up over bumps and curbs etc.

So that's where I'm at. I also know with mine, I need some sort of bag over coils. I've researched at least that much. Unless there are 8th gen civics out there that I've not found who have been able to make a kit from scratch. But the few that I've seen have broken down because of the standard sized bags being too big. Specifically up front. I think in the rear, they're fine, but it's up front where the problems lay.

But I'm all up for suggestions so I can figure out money.

I am seriously considering putting the 360 up for sale amongst other things to get my bit one. I need to research the difference between the bit one and the bit ten D. I'm not sure what money differences are like there, but they use the same controller which is a huge selling point for me. I was getting frustrated yesterday with the 360 remote and the notchiness of it. It's not easy finding the happy point of where the subs are when the amount of volume between notches is so great. I hit them hard yesterday and scared the shit out of me. I know I sound like a noob, turn it up pussy, but when you hear mechanical slap even me being fairly noobish knows that's not good. So the sooner I can get this thing out of my car, the more comfortable I'm going to feel. But I have to be able to swap it out, I can't just take it out and then replace it later. I'll be with out everything.

The other thing I'm dealing with. When I was doing my testing last weekend and dealing with the 360 and the issues that happened, I was pulling some wires that went to the eld bypass. Recall I figured out the switch didn't really do me any good or not. SO I disconnected them and let them hang. While I was doing my testing last week, I cut part of them to use them as testing, thinking I was going to need to use the switch that they were on. Well, I said that because it's what I'm sort of limiting my options down to the battery light and engine shutter issue I have going on. I noticed the other day the battery light on the dash kind of flutter or flash quickly on and off. That was Tuesday night. Monday I drove way out to Roseville and did the video and other things and never saw a light. But then thinking about it, I don't know that I paid much attention. I was too happy. So yesterday, I noticed that when I was coming home the light would come on and off while I was sitting at a light. I also noticed at idle the motor shutters a bit, which may not be the right term it was more like a low idle and the motor was struggling to stay running. NEver shut off, but just had that sound like it was going to die. When this happened I check the VM-1, which I had plugged into the console acc plug with the lighter attachment, and it was reading 14.3-14.6v so it did not appear that I was loosing voltage when this happened. Then more paying attention last night, it did drop. I would drop into the mid to upper 12's and lower 13's. Music not playing loud at all. SO it was acting like the ELD has re engaged itself. Maybe I did it when I was moving those wires. I need to check it out. The other thing I noticed was that the motor is a bit sluggish. But that might just be me getting used to the weight now in the car.

SO I need to work on that stuff.

I'll be starting back up working on everything in the next few days. And I'll see about getting pics up today. If anyone has any suggestions on the battery issue, I'm open to them. I think it really is the ELD and the computer getting confused, but I won't know till I can pull that box again and this time just unplug the eld. So that'll be soon. Maybe today.

Ok that's all I have for now.

Posted

My assumption is that it would not lay body even at full dump

I believe I am correct in saying that the only thing on the bottom of the bumper required to be touched for removal is just some clips, no bolts.

So even with only a few inches, you should be able to pop the bumper off to access it all.

They make filter screens for compressors, which can be cleaned every so often.

All components should be quality powder coated or stainless so not much other wear should be an issue

Nitrogen makes it so you wouldn't have to run compressors very often, which would further cut down on compresor concerns.

As for safety, I can't speak from experience, but I know people run them inside

Propane is my specialty (for off-road trucks and such), so I am familiar with the fittings and tanks and all that, but not nitrogen specifically

I'm sure there is a company out there willing to make bag overs for a civic, as you wouldn't be the only one interested.

Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ

My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)

0a4ee87c-28c8-4bf8-9dfe-5a06b9dea2dc_zps

3e3eb9dd-70f8-4424-ad11-ccebcd929ac4_zps

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