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75 Chevy blowthrough idea help


JesseyMclame

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What if you put the sub in a bandpass box with 2 round ports that go through the wall and into the truck? Would he lose a lot of sound still? Was thinking a bandpass would concentrate most of the sound into the ports. Then could possibly run the ports through thick rubber mounts to seal around the ports and allow some flex? Just a thought...

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2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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Thats what the mouth piece being stuck into the cab is for. If you seal the bandpass ports to the cab too well you wont have enough room for flex.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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So my sub will just barely clear being angled. I have to cut like a half inch to an inch below my window. Do you think That would be okay ? Like I wouldn't break window or anything ?

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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or you can cut smaller/lower and use a mouth piece on the front of the box so you dont have to worry about that.

Like this, but dont make it so small or it will act like a 4th or 6th order..

blowthrough.png

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Would you be able to mock me up a design for my 1 18"? I'd wanna angle it to keep the box as low as possible.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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I'd wanna angle the sub *

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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Sorry but I dont do mockups.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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You're trying to do some things that few can give you advice on. Not a lot of guys wanna have a mud truck/crawler with a blowthrough. Few have attempted, so very few will have great suggestions. As far as being set on equipment, I think that if you don't have the height for the 18", it shouldn't be considered. I understand you are really wanting it to work and here's the thing, you MIGHT get it to.

You might have to just try sometning though. I myself, am not gonna push a design on you, just so you can HAVE an 18" sub in a blowthrough in a truck that potentially articulates like a morherfucker. I won't push a bad design or one that's doomed to not work, or structurally jeopardize your safety.

I honestly think that is where you're at with this idea. Stand back, rethink it, and then be realistic if you can pull off this build. Getting a blowthrough properly designed and built isn't easy work. Angling the sub affects loading characteristics. You need to likely have a 4th order to pull it off. So proper sealed and ported sections of the box to match the sub's needs.

Which sub is it that your thinking about using? Do you have the tools to properly do the cutting for the blowthrough? I would HIGHLY suggest a plasma cutter rather than an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel.

What you want to do is not impossible but it will require proper planning to prevent piss poor performance(the 6 p's). I'd be happy to help where I can and IF I can. You will need to be open minded to suggestion and opinions though if you're going to want good advice from myself or others

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I forgot to mention you will likely want to downfire the subwoofer as well, since not all (nearly none) subwoofers feature bolted magnet structures. In previous installs myself and others have run we have had issues with motors shifting and pinching the voice coil to the pole piece due to the lack of either a motor cage or bolts.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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