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About Hellbilly429

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  • Birthday 04/29/1990

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  1. Reach out to Brandon at Audio Anarchy here https://www.facebook.com/AudioAnarchyLLC/ They sell a ton of DB Drive, and Brandon is a genius when it comes to box design, physics, etc.
  2. Mark just put up a video recently with calculating air space in a spare-tire well build. Not sure if this video is helpful to you or not, but should give you some ideas.
  3. I highly doubt Mechman meant not to run the big 3 by those instructions, especially since running smaller gauge wire on a high output alternator could cause issues with their product. Probably silly questions, but are the RCA's run on the opposite side of the power wire, have you tried grounding the head unit to a different ground other than the factory ground wire, and are all of your amplifier grounds going to 1 location? Also, what RCA's are you running? You definitely want to make sure you have heavy shielded RCA's with that head unit since it only has 2.5V pre-outs.
  4. Hell yeah, any time man! Looking forward to the build!
  5. That port volume is already calculated into the design, so no, won't reduce the volume of the box from the design sent. Good! You should have clearance then. From the port wall to the inside of the sub baffle should have 10.25" of distance left. Depending on if you mount the sub on top of both baffles, or recess it into 1 baffle, you should have 4-4.75" of clearance behind the sub when mounted.
  6. Depending on the mounting depth of this sub, you should be able to get away with an L-Port with an addition port wall on top of it like this:
  7. Box all the way to the back of the trunk, subs and port firing forward, sealed off with trim panels (the "wall" you were talking about) will give great results. Give you the flexibility of putting back seats down for when you want to turn up, or up when you have passengers. If you are running 4k watts to these subs in a 3 cube net box, then minimum port area (according to Triticum's port calculator, which is pretty on par with WINISD for keeping port velocity below 32m/s) the min. port area required for a slot port is 60 inches squared, and for an aero port is 51 inches squared. Optimal port area is 81 square inches for slot and aero ports. If you shoot for over the minimum, the box should perform well.
  8. Agreed. Little easier to make and what not.
  9. Following Triticum's port calculator, and it lists optimum port area to be 35 inches squared for a 1.3 ft^3 box with 1800 watts applied to it. Edit: misunderstood both of your comments, sorry guys! Port ratio of 1:1 is ideal, but I do not think the port ratio of 1:8 will hurt him. Do you want me to re-calculate with a square port instead of a slot to be safe?
  10. It's the port area that matters, not the dimensions of the port. You are welcome!
  11. Need your max dimensions before anyone can design a box for you.
  12. Really hard to get an accurate reading from WINISD since I'm missing parameters for the sub, but it looks like it should be fine with a 35hz tuning at 1.33 net, getting you port area of 33 (min. is 26 according to Triticum's calculator, and optimal is 35.) WINISD is graphing that with 1800 watts applied, your port velocity should be below 24 m/s. Definitely use subsonic filter at 25-28hz to not exceed excursion limits at lower frequencies.
  13. Not sure if you know or not, but you will have to use a cloud hosted storage system to hyperlink images from for this forum. I use Photobucket.
  14. The attachment says it doesn't work bud, sorry
  15. Need subs. Not a VS thread, but different subs require different boxes. Also, firing sub up should not be an issue. I'm assuming the top dimensions for this box will be 33"x20" max? If not, can you give us a quick sketch of the shape you're coming up with the dimensions labeled on the sketch? You can do it in crayons for all I care, just trying to understand what you're working with.
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