Hellbilly's 2010 Cobalt Build

[Hellbilly429]

That is full length 17" dude, I think I'm going to make an mdf ring to cover the gap around the port

[95neon_thumper82]

That is full length 17" dude, I think I'm going to make an mdf ring to cover the gap around the port

that'll be sick! what's the tuning for that?

[Hellbilly429]

33-34hz depending on which calculator I use, lol

[95neon_thumper82]

oh damnnn!

[bbeljefe]

Then did some caulking with the clear silicone, that has got to be the nastiest smelling shit ever btw, can see how it ruins subs when it gasses off

One word.... Polyseamseal. Get some.

It is siliconized, paintable and exterior grade. Silicone has very little in the way of adhesive properties, it doesn't stick well to wood, it stinks all to hell and it makes paint turn into fish eye's... even if the only thing that gets on the to be painted surface is the nasty assed, volatile, disgusting, putrid gasses that it belches out onto everything.

The only thing that shit is good for is sealing glass panels and holding stone countertops down.

:-)

[Hellbilly429]

Then did some caulking with the clear silicone, that has got to be the nastiest smelling shit ever btw, can see how it ruins subs when it gasses off

One word.... Polyseamseal. Get some.

It is siliconized, paintable and exterior grade. Silicone has very little in the way of adhesive properties, it doesn't stick well to wood, it stinks all to hell and it makes paint turn into fish eye's... even if the only thing that gets on the to be painted surface is the nasty assed, volatile, disgusting, putrid gasses that it belches out onto everything.

The only thing that shit is good for is sealing glass panels and holding stone countertops down.

:-)

Damn, where the fuck were you like days ago before I put it on already? lol

I don't usually use silicone but I thought this was what everyone was using

Man, I don't want to have to peal it all out of there but if it's not gonna stick well I guess I better do it... Fuuuuuuuck....

[bbeljefe]

It'll stick well enough to seal off the cracks in the box and yeah, most people do use silicone. I used it 25 years ago when I started building speaker boxes but now I know of a better option.

In reality, silicone is probably the most mis-used building product on the planet, even more so than duct tape. It really is a good product but it has zero business in woodworking.

So don't peel it out of there, just throw whatever you might have left in a garbage can and make silicone a part of your deep, dark sinful past. :-)

EDIT: Another thing to keep in mind.... NO kind of caulk is necessary if you have tight joints and you use plenty of good quality wood glue. I prefer Tightbond III, because it dries quickly. Just make you joints as tight as possible and make sure you use enough glue that it squishes out the side all the way down the workpiece. Also, keep a wet painter's rag handy and once you've nailed or screwed the workpiece, tool the glue off with your hand just like you would the sticky, disgusting silicone and then wipe the excess off with the wet rag. Wala.... sealed joint, sans carcinogens in your lungs and your voice coilz....

EDIT 2: Just thought of this... I had a friend who was a windshield installer for whom I built a box many years ago when I was young and even dumber than I am now. I asked him for silicone and he handed me a tube of urethane that's used for gluing in windshields. Long story short, it was an under seat wedge box and by the time I got done caulking it up through the speaker hole, I had urethane all the way up my elbow.

It took about two weeks for all that shit to wear off that motherfucker laughed his nuts off every time he saw me until all that shit wore off. So yeah, don't use urethane either....

[Hellbilly429]

It'll stick well enough to seal off the cracks in the box and yeah, most people do use silicone. I used it 25 years ago when I started building speaker boxes but now I know of a better option.

In reality, silicone is probably the most mis-used building product on the planet, even more so than duct tape. It really is a good product but it has zero business in woodworking.

So don't peel it out of there, just throw whatever you might have left in a garbage can and make silicone a part of your deep, dark sinful past. :-)

EDIT: Another thing to keep in mind.... NO kind of caulk is necessary if you have tight joints and you use plenty of good quality wood glue. I prefer Tightbond III, because it dries quickly. Just make you joints as tight as possible and make sure you use enough glue that it squishes out the side all the way down the workpiece. Also, keep a wet painter's rag handy and once you've nailed or screwed the workpiece, tool the glue off with your hand just like you would the sticky, disgusting silicone and then wipe the excess off with the wet rag. Wala.... sealed joint, sans carcinogens in your lungs and your voice coilz....

Lmao, thanks dude. I am pretty sure it wasn't necessary as my joints are tight as fuck, using Titebond 2, clamped and screws every 3", this shit is solid.

I used the silicone thinking overkill is better than underkill

Honestly when I do the glue I usually clean the excess off by running it 1 direction down the seam leaving a line in the gap, I just do it with a dry rag.

I will throw that tube away tho, nastiest shit ever, I'll lock it away along with the other skeletons, thanks for the tip tho Bbeljefe!

[brendanthekid]

Good stuff man! lol love the stuff you wrapped the amp rack with.

[95neon_thumper82]

It'll stick well enough to seal off the cracks in the box and yeah, most people do use silicone. I used it 25 years ago when I started building speaker boxes but now I know of a better option.

In reality, silicone is probably the most mis-used building product on the planet, even more so than duct tape. It really is a good product but it has zero business in woodworking.

So don't peel it out of there, just throw whatever you might have left in a garbage can and make silicone a part of your deep, dark sinful past. :-)

EDIT: Another thing to keep in mind.... NO kind of caulk is necessary if you have tight joints and you use plenty of good quality wood glue. I prefer Tightbond III, because it dries quickly. Just make you joints as tight as possible and make sure you use enough glue that it squishes out the side all the way down the workpiece. Also, keep a wet painter's rag handy and once you've nailed or screwed the workpiece, tool the glue off with your hand just like you would the sticky, disgusting silicone and then wipe the excess off with the wet rag. Wala.... sealed joint, sans carcinogens in your lungs and your voice coilz....

Lmao, thanks dude. I am pretty sure it wasn't necessary as my joints are tight as fuck, using Titebond 2, clamped and screws every 3", this shit is solid.

I used the silicone thinking overkill is better than underkill

Honestly when I do the glue I usually clean the excess off by running it 1 direction down the seam leaving a line in the gap, I just do it with a dry rag.

I will throw that tube away tho, nastiest shit ever, I'll lock it away along with the other skeletons, thanks for the tip tho Bbeljefe!

don't forget to resin the entire inside as welll... plug the pores up... get all the spl you can