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  1. Hello my name is rich and i am currently building a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer my daily driver into a 10k daily driver. I have been doing car stereo since i was 15 and this is going to be the second most advanced system that i have ever put together. So need as much help and criticism as possible. Want to learn as much as i can and have a nice build. If you haven't read my other build log i started building a 97 hyundai Tiburon and after having my system up and going for a little over a month the trans blew. was loud as hell needed work but oh well. so had to find another daily driver and wasn't going to give up system so decided to go truck route (5 kids 4 girls, 1 boy) My goals for this car are upper 150 dbs (if possible and musical) (not metered yet) to learn as much as possible (fiberglassing, body work, vinyl work) decent sq (don't want subs to over power everything) start with equipment that i have and slowly but eventually build to bigger and better equipment Build it better then my 03 mitsubishi lancer oz rally (that i miss like a child) alpine iva-d310, pxa-h701, 420i, audiocontol matrix plus, ps2 slim in glovebox, cf Vr804, 2 Vr1000d, excessive amperage 200 amp alt, 2 kinetic power 2400, 1 run tsunami 0, big 3 0 Tsunami, 2 sets of cf x6s one front one rear, 2 mtx 9500 12in d4s, tons of dynamat extreme, varad 1000 color leds in front foot wells, yellow leds in pocket under radio, yellow florescent lights in door pockets walker front bumper canary yellow Loud and Clean daily driver (final goal) (demos, car shows, and competitions) Here is the list of the equipment that i currently have HU: pioneer deh 80prs (network mode on active) RCAs: SHCA Tripleshielded (mids and highs and both cockboxes), Connection(hu to sub cockbox) SBC cockbox (black) 1 in 4 out (subs), 2 in 16 out (white metal)(mids and highs) Singer 340 six phase hairpin amp alternator battery delete painted to match limitless battery with toolmaker battery terminals 1/0 Gauge 4 runs SHCA OFC Big 4 double 1/0 OFC SHCA OFC Distrobution Blocks S.M.D., and Knukonceptz 2 Stinger SVMR Voltmeter (Red) (one for front battery delete and one for rear Battery bank) Skar sk85.4 85x4 @ 4 ohms on 2 sb acoustics neo dome tweeters MMATS Sq4100 100x4 @ 4ohms on 4 silver flute 8s (4ohm) Subs: 6 fully built ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4 Sub Amp: 2 DC 5ks with TM dual Inputs and TM quad speaker imputs Limitless lithium 70 ah with limitless and tool maker bars, and toolmaker battery terminals Here is a list of equipment that i want or need may change L.E.D.s for interior and amp rack Cooling for amps in rear More mids and highs for shows Another dc5k Another limitless 70ah or bigger More interior speakers??? (maybe birch roof) Another singer 340 alt or bigger (powdercoated white) get better HU and eq/processor( and maybe a Tablet?)
  2. Introduction I'm writing this as a quick walk through for Ubuntu Linux users who have a Pioneer AVH-270BT fitted in their vehicle and are struggling playing downloaded YouTube video files from USB. This may or may not work for other video formats, at the time of writing this has only been tested with .mp4 files downloaded from YouTube. Install Youtube-dl Firstly, on Ubuntu make sure you have youtube-dl installed either from the repository; Or, from the official website or Git repository; Youtube-dl Link Download Youtube Video Once installed, find a video you want to download and copy its Uniform Resource Locator (URL) from the address bar. At the time of this writing, a link will look like the following; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxqYDrELD_E Now, youtube-dl allows us to download different qualities of video, with different screen resolutions, using the -F switch, an example of this follows; In this example I will be using the number 22 option; Once we know the option we require, we download the video using the -f switch passing in the option as follows; Once the video is downloaded, if you chose the .mp4 option, it is time to convert the video to a playable file format and screen resolution. In this example I will be converting the .mp4 file to divx with the .avi file format with a screen resolution of 640x480. Converting Your Video On Ubuntu, if you have ffmpeg you can either batch convert or single file convert. To batch convert, first create a shell script file, I created the file convert.sh in the directory where my video files are I want to convert. I added the following shell code to my convert.sh file then saved the file; I then made the convert.sh file an executable file by changing its permissions using the command; I then ran the file using the command; Or, for a single video without using a shell script you can use the command; Making sure you replace input.mp4 with your downloaded file name and the output.avi with the name you want your file to be. Automated Process I have created an automated shell script which can be added to a file as mentioned above which is a work in progress, simply create a convert.sh file as above, add the following shell code instead of the shell code mentioned in the previous chapter. If anyone feels like adding to or rewriting the shell script please can you repost for other people. Conclusion Converting will depend on the time of the video file and the resources of your computer. Once complete, you should be able to play the converted YouTube video on your head unit. These commands worked for me every time, I have an AVH-270BT I bought second hand and it has a screen resolution of 800x480. I couldn't get it to work using other resolutions, it kept saying screen resolution not supported. References 1. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD+Receivers/AVH-270BT#manuals 2. https://www.taniarascia.com/how-to-create-and-use-bash-scripts/ 3. https://superuser.com/questions/309822/ffmpeg-command-to-convert-to-divx 4. https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5784661/how-do-you-convert-an-entire-directory-with-ffmpeg 5. https://superuser.com/questions/1150745/how-to-convert-multiple-videos-into-avi-one-after-another
  3. I just started this build last week when i bought the radio and a backseat. Then got told i gatta have a vehicle ready for a show in march so i put aside my big build in my truck to focus on this thing. Its my 92 acura integra hatch. All stock except for aluminum radiator. As you can see theres a lack of room under the hood for making it clean. So heres my take i was able to do with fat hands First i took off the intake for more room. Found the alt. Why im staying with a stock for as long as i can Ran small 4ga for my run from alt to back battery. Factory alt is 80a so its plenty. If i upgrade itll go to a 120-180a For run between batteries i used t spec 1/0 i had left over from an old car of mine. Also mounted fuses where i can see and access them easily then came wiring behind the radio. Getting everything ready for stuff as it came in. Radio back together And running wires back. Yes all zip ties tails were cut in the end Will get pic of battery mounted down and the wiring to it tomorrow. Got in a hurry and forgot to take pics and enging bay put back together. i have more products coming. Got a delivery thursday and one sometime next week from ill customz. All i gatta buy now is my 2 ds18 exl sq series amps and 2 ds18 elite 8s. Ill keep yall posted. I have till march 15 to finish this
  4. Am i running out of power ? Its feels like i miss allot of power If i put te amp up to 75% it sometimes gives a pop like is running out of power. Got a little bit of lamp dimming to. te current ampere it is pulling i dont know ( battery is full ) .will swapping to a optima yellow 80ah( 945 cold cranking ) solve mij problems ? Currently running: Dd815 dual 1 ohm on 2 on Excursion hxa3k ( 20mm2 50mm3 is on its way) 60 ah bassic battery ( 515amp cold crank) 70 amp dynamo
  5. I've had this system for years (5 yrs), I was kinda satified with it thus far. Hopefully I can change my audio setup for house music rather than dirty south rap. Car : Lexus GS300 Sportdesign Audio Setup : MMATS 2100.1, 2 MMATS P 3.0 in a ported box (unknown measurements), Alpine MRV 4CH old amp, 4 Focal KP 165 speakers, MMATS line driver, Monster RCA cables, Home Depot gauge wires A/V Setup : (old) Pioneer AVH-p4200DVD (newer) Pioneer AVH-x8500BHS, Western Digital TV player with 500GB external HDD, 2 myron davis headrest Here's a video of my APP MODE function with my rooted S3 (able to use touch screen) http://youtu.be/rKOZLsnkV3A?list=UUN3KVwOdcX84bf5Kicst-9Q I've always into tech stuff, so I used my cellphone to display on my headunit using App Mode. Pretty easy for me now with the Samsung S5 but with the S3, was a headache. Done other mods to the car, dunno if it needs to be menitoned on this forum, LMK.
  6. Like the title says.... Getting rid of this bad boy, has all accessories (even the GPS antenna) except USB wire which you can pick up any where (USB extension cable).... I will let this go for $675 shipped.... Price: $675 PAYPAL ONLY Shipping within continental US only ***MODs I took photo last night but had issues getting onto the PC hope yesterday date ok*** Buy with confidence, long time member of the community...
  7. i have a 2004 Escalade, shes saphire blue and came with 2 parallel goldish colored pinstripes ...9 years has taken its toll on those lame little stripes and im not sure how to tackle it exactly....before i come up with my own idea i figured theres bound to be someone here thats done this before or at least has some kind of direction to point me in right? thanks
  8. ok, so this is going to be a real slow build with no real progress until sometime next summer (hopefully June). going through a lot of changes at the moment with a whole lot going on. anyways list of equipment I already have (2) t2d415 (in storage different state) (2) punch pro 6.5 (installed) (2) punch pro tweets (installed) (1) t400.4 (installed) (1) pioneer 80prs (installed) (1) t1500.1bdcp (in storage different state) (1) 10 farad Rockford cap (installed) ( yeah ive heard about caps, personal exp it has helped slightly with keeping voltage up) enough Rockford 0/1 gauge to do 2 runs and big 3 (1 run installed no big 3 on this car yet) plenty of 16gauge for the doors (installed) should have enough 4gauge for the amps singer 250 amp alt ( currently sent back for repair and external regulator setup ) fuse holders/fuses hx2 power 12" for a temp setup im going to hopefully have a box for it and installed soon. things I still need batteries ( for sure either platinum diehard or kinetic for cheaper price but proven performance) either t2 or t3 component set 2nd t400.4 2nd t1500.1bdcp smd volt meter material for fiberglassing wood, nail gun, wood glue, liquid nails ( in general box building tools, materials ) 8gauge for speaker wire lots of sound deadener not a whole lot on that list some spendy items that will take time to get but it shall be done.. sooner or later... the plan is to do an all Rockford build with decent sq and great output. not building for the meter but if I can get up to a 148 I would be especially happy. going more for my personal enjoyment and dedication to a great hobby. performance build what i have (installed) aem cold air intake aftermarket exhaust manifold 2.5"? (looks last owner did it im gonna make changes) exhaust from manifold back tein lowing springs rear sway bar (looks kinda like an eibach but don't know, aftermarket for sure though. light weight pulleys ( going to put a stock crank pulley back on because of the harmonic balancer ) what to get kyb adjustable shocks and struts all new bushing through out the suspension engine and tranny mounts clutch/fly wheel minor head work maybe raise compression a bit tune appereance cant remember the name of the stuff right now but that paint that peels right off when you want to change colors... hid fog lights hid headlights ( have but not on this car yet ) carbon fiber hood (installed needs touch ups) carbon fiber hatchdoor ?maybe? tinted windows 18" enkie wheels (installed) ill have to use my phone to add pics give me sometime for pics. for some reason i cant paste to this forum, works with everything else on my computer just not this forum.
  9. Hello, I just picked up almost everything i just need help deciding on a deck to go along with my system. So far: JLHD600/4 x1 JLHD750/1 x1 JLZR650 x2, Front and Rear HO110R-W7AE All JL wiring, Speaker cable, Rca's, 2 AWG Amp kit. Bass Knob. 58.7 sq feet of Hushmat. Been looking into, Kenwood Excelon series double din's, DDX8901HD, DDX790HD. Pioneer Single Dins, DEH80PRS, DEXP99RS. I am open to all suggestions on the deck but please dont bash the product that I have already purchased. Thank you!!
  10. I'm just getting around to posting this, it has a lack of Pictures during the build. But here it is. (Originally posted at Stevemeadedesigns.com) I was going to do this for the March 2012 SOTM, but had two issues with the qualifications. 1. My box is bare, as I've lost the carpet between moving from my old house, to the new one. 2. My amp (Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP) is *technically* 1500w. But is rated at 1867w RMS at 2ohms. 367w over the qualifications. So maybe I'll get nominated for a build in the future, and this will motivate me to finish my box, and clean up my wires and such. So here we GO! Video: Parts List: Cadence FX6m8 6" 300 Watt "Mid-Bass" door speakers (x2) Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 (x3) Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bd Constant Power Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD Some 0-ga. Wires So here we go with the pictures! Here is the Truck in question, 2001 Chevy S-10 single cab, stepside. 4.3L V-6 So as you all can see, I have very limited room for a system, without doing a blow-thru which I don't feel like doing right meow. UPS brought me a nice pile of Pioneer fun! So all three of those are 300w(RMS) Max power. And the three of them wired to my one Rockford Fosgate T1500.1 they are down to about 1.33 Ohms. My amp is rated at 1867w RMS at 2 Ohms. So I am MORE than doubling the recommended Maximum RMS for these three subs. But they hit pretty damn hard for what they are. Here is the box, recommended size for these subs are .35 - .7 cu. ft. This box, per chamber is coming in at .725 cu. ft. Subs are counter sunk so that when they are at full excursion they won't hit the back of my seats. Which they don't! So its great. Here is my messy Big-3 Upgrade with my stock alt, and shitty Interstate battery. I have to admit, I'm pretty damn good at soldering the ends on, they look nice and clean like Steves! I just need to put end covers on so they don't look so messy.
  11. Hello, I just want to introduce you build for my friend. It consists of: 2x Sundown X15 2x Crescendo BC3500D 1x Crescendo Concerto C1100.4 1x ARC audio 4ch (dont know the exact model) 4x Crescendo PWX 10 4x Crescendo FT1 Tweeters 1x Powercell 4000 battery in front (we do the 3 big upgrades of course ) 2x CZ audio 115Ah batteries in back 2x Exide AGM 50Ah in the back - running on stock 120Ah alternator - Pionner 2DIN radio The sundown´s are in 6th Bandpass enclosure (4th was planned and builded but it wasnt what we want so we upgrade it to 6th ) tuned from 18hz running on two bridget Crescendo BC 3500D (metered over 5kW and 0,85ohm+ impedance in bridge - 0,425ohm on each amp) Some scores (metered on the front window) 147db @ 20hz driver window opened 150,4db @ 30hz sealed 154db @ 30hz driver window opened Here are more pics from build: https://www.facebook.com/miqra/media_set?set=a.10206386572810730.1073741861.1460274342&type=3 And here some youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cwWGOAvA8g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4JODrZ6Y2I
  12. Hello i recently purchased a Pioneer AVH-X3700BHS Head unit. And I wired it according to Metra’s wiring harness. I have the power red wire connected to the 12v ignition wire (red to red) and the memory wire connected to the yellow (yellow to yellow) for some reason when I turn off my car, my head unit stays on. I’m fairly new at wiring and installing head units so I’m kind of confused as to why my head unit will not turn off when I turn off the ignition. Is it possible for the head unit to be getting power from elsewhere? Or is it as well possible that the Metra wiring harness has a few wires turned around wrong? Or can something be wrong with the car? I know with the factory head unit, no problems occurred. Sorry for all the questions but I’m just confused. I’m installing it into a 2016 Kia Soul. I’m hoping someone here can help me diagnose my problem. TIA
  13. hey guys. i doubt any of you really remember but i had a 2010 civic. was gonna start building, totaled it, fast forward a little bit and i now have a mazda 3 sedan. deck/processor - pioneer 80-prs speakers - focal p165-v15 amps - B2 Zero.7 audison voce quattro on mids (active) subs - 2 aa mayhems gca custom built 15's shca ofc 1/0 power wire shok industries ofc speaker wire. well here are some pictures. hopefully more to come as i do some more work first things first, had to tint the windows heres the box design deck installed 2 sa-10s progress on the box equipment being used bit of a tight fit only way i could place the amps but looked good put some carpet ontop of the box and mounted the amps speakers installed and running fully active was planning on having the car lowered or new rims until someone decided to key my car repainted and how its sitting as of last night!
  14. So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures
  15. Okay So i have a 90 Bronco, I just got a new amplifier "My old one did the same thing" so anyways when ever i turn the Key to (On) position the amplifier fade in slowly how it should. Now when I start my truck, the subs will go "BANG" loudly as the head unit turns on after starting the engine. My Amplifier is a Power Bass 600.2; also yes it's all wired correctly "I'm a freak when it comes to making things look good and connecting it right, not half ass shit" anyways Remote is connected to the (Blue Remote Out) A.K.A Antenna Signal) same thing. But this only happens when I start my Truck. I have grounds every where "Also lets Mind You that all the ground points are Shiny Wire brushed Ground Points" So I know for a fact I have great Grounds EVERYWHERE even for the head unit I ran it's own ground to Bare Unpainted Metal. If this helps I have... Pioneer DEH-150MP Head Unit Power Bass 600.2 Bridged Running Two 12" Kicker Comps. Amplifier power Wire is 4 Gauge & the Remote Wire is a 18 Gauge All the Wiring Kit is a good Quality kit.
  16. Here is the log for my install in my 2009 Honda fit, goes through all the install except detailed pics of the headunit install. Some of this was written as a guide for other fit owners so it may seem weird, just wanted to detail the doors and such so that other fit owners would know what to expect. Here is a picture of the headunit and DMM I put in the dash. Here are a couple pictures of the power wire. This is directly above the gas pedal area. And here is a picture of it in the engine bay. Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down. Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area. Heres a couple more shots of the power wire. This was only what I had on hand for power wire, I am working on getting some 0AWG after completing my BIG 3 which is happening this week, as I am picking up my Shuriken BT35 battery today. I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car. I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this was left over from my wife's SQ stash, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it. Here is the breaker just after putting it in and sealing the screw that it mounts with. Next the same area with the cable. Here it is all tightened up. An upper view of the breaker. And finally, the sub amp mounted and the mids and highs amp is on the other seat back in the picture below the sub amp picture. I retained use of my cars child seat features by mounting the amp high enough to clear the bracket. Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you. Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw. Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself. Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness. After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw. After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.
  17. Hey guys, just recently built my first box for my Sundown Audio SA-12, I uploaded a video and pics to the box build thread, so I figured shit now I'm hooked on doing this whole car up, so I better start a build thread. Here is the link to my box build http://www.stevemead...-a-2010-cobalt/ And here is a recent video I shot with my shitty phone camera, sorry guys, it doesn't pick up on fast movements worth a damn but it's the best I got to shoot with for now. I have some B-Stock Damplifier on the way right now and the fiance got me a set of pioneer 6.5" TS-G1644R so that both of my front speakers will finally work, and I have a set of alpine type E 6x9's in the garage waiting to go in. Also have a pretty good sized roll of 0 gauge welding wire sitting in there that's been calling my name... Once I have gotten all of this stuff in plans are to upgrade my battery, maybe get a second battery, do a tune-up on the car, get a 4-channel amp for my speakers and then upgrade my sub amp.
  18. I'm in search for a decent 12" sub preferably under $150 that can handle 500 watts or more. Thinking about getting a Soundqubed HDS2 or S3. Any other suggestions?
  19. I have a pioneer avh-x1700s and it doesnt come with bluetooth/hands-free, can it still be installed separate ?
  20. Ok i have 2 decks, 1st is an Alpine cde-7872 (old school) that i modded for AUX option, it has great features and its a single din, and my second is a pioneer 700bt double din, it has aux, bluetooth and usb functions, it does have good eq settings but i use my cross-over and my eq-6500 7band instead of the deck eq, which would you guys choose... just looking looking for others 2 cents
  21. I need some help, I have 2 pioneer 12" stw-305c and I need to make a box for them. I'm going for a ported box with a slot port tuned to 34hz and I just can't get the port and box size right. I'm new to building boxes and if anyone could give me some dimensions that would be great.
  22. Looking to get rid of my pioneer avic-z130bt Cosmetic I'll give it a 8/10 because it has some minor scratches Functionality it is 10/10. Asking $350 o.b.o and I'll pay shipping. Price is flexible so don't be afraid to make me an offer. Not interested in any trades. PayPal is the only form of payment I'll take unless you are local to me. Forgot to add I already did the bypass mod to the harness so you can watch dvd's while driving. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/GPS-Navigation/AVIC-Z130BT
  23. Hey! I have 2 pioneer ts-w3003d4 subs and i was wondering about a few things! I now have a ported box with 1 chamber and a square port tuned at 31 hz and 3,624 ft3 (102l). The bass is rally lound and feels good at songs with low frequenzy bass, but when i play songs that have a bass with a faster higher frequenzy the bass almost dissapears. is this a tuning problem that I could solve by building a new envclosure? I was thinking about a new enclosure with 2 chambers at 1.5 ft3 (45l) each and tune it to 38Hz. Is this a good choise or will this solve nothing? I still want to maintain hard bass at low frequenzies but i want to still be able to play faster songs... The enclusure i have now uses backprezure from one sub, so i was wondering how this will change sound if I seperate the subs into 2 chambers? Any answer would be great!
  24. Hello! I have a noise related issue, and I really don't know what to do So, for the past few months I have noticed an intermittent high pitched noise coming from my Pioneer mono amplifier. Its really high pitched, but does not seem to come from the speakers or subwoofer. It comes on randomly, and will be apparent even when no music is playing. There is no way to get rid of the noise except for turning off the radio. Sometimes turning the radio off and then back on gets rid of the noise, but it is still very intermittent, as I will here it some days and not on other days. The noise does not change pitch and it doesn't really get louder or softer, but I can hear it in the driver's seat of my Jeep Cherokee with the amplifier in the trunk. The noise has not always happened. I did put in a new radio, a CDE-HD149BT, along with a line driver to the amplifier (which I have since removed, but the noise has still reappeared). I also changed the grounding point for the amplifier to one of the seat belt bolts (a friend said that would be a better ground). I also have a LC-1 that I use as my bass knob. I also ran the power and ground for my radio straight to the battery. Do you guys think its an issue internally with the amp? Its currently mounted on the back of the seat in the trunk. It does kinda get moved a round a little bit. Which reminds me! There was also a day this past winter where I noticed FROST on the amplifier! I'm sure that could also be a factor, but have you guys ever had an issue with frost? Could the line driver have caused an issue? The only reason I bought it was because my friend tried to convince me my amplifier would consume less power and be louder (that's almost a completely new topic I could post about lol). Sorry this got kind of long! Any help you guys could give would be awesome! Oh, the amplifier is a Pioneer GM-D9601 and I have a Sundown Audio SA-15 wired to 1 ohm, 4 gauge Stinger wiring, with Stinger and Rockford RCA'S. Stock electrical, some upgraded wiring to 0 gauge under the hood.
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