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Found 123 results

  1. Hello my name is rich and i am currently building a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer my daily driver into a 10k daily driver. I have been doing car stereo since i was 15 and this is going to be the second most advanced system that i have ever put together. So need as much help and criticism as possible. Want to learn as much as i can and have a nice build. If you haven't read my other build log i started building a 97 hyundai Tiburon and after having my system up and going for a little over a month the trans blew. was loud as hell needed work but oh well. so had to find another daily driver and wasn't going to give up system so decided to go truck route (5 kids 4 girls, 1 boy) My goals for this car are upper 140s-150 dbs (if possible and musical) (not metered yet) to learn as much as possible (fiberglassing, body work, vinyl work) decent sq (don't want subs to over power everything) start with equipment that i have and slowly but eventually build to bigger and better equipment Build it better then my 03 mitsubishi lancer oz rally (that i miss like a child) alpine iva-d310, pxa-h701, 420i, audiocontol matrix plus, ps2 slim in glovebox, cf Vr804, 2 Vr1000d, excessive amperage 200 amp alt, 2 kinetic power 2400, 1 run tsunami 0, big 3 0 Tsunami, 2 sets of cf x6s one front one rear, 2 mtx 9500 12in d4s, tons of dynamat extreme, varad 1000 color leds in front foot wells, yellow leds in pocket under radio, yellow florescent lights in door pockets walker front bumper canary yellow Loud and Clean daily driver (final goal) (demos, car shows, and competitions) Here is the list of the equipment that i currently have HU: pioneer deh 80prs (network mode on active) RCAs: Streetwires, Connection Singer 340 six phase hairpin amp alternator XS Power D3400 under hood with Custom 1/2 Aluminum Bus Bars (made by me) 1/0 Gauge 3 runs SHCA OFC Big 4 double 1/0 OFC SHCA OFC Distrobution Blocks S.M.D., and directed audio 2 Stinger SVMR Voltmeter (Red) (one for front batt and one for rear Battery bank) Skar sk85.4 85x4 @ 4 ohms on 2 sb acoustics neo dome tweeters MMATS Sq4100 100x4 @ 4ohms on 4 silver flute 8s (4ohm) Subs: 6 12in AB xfl d2s soon to be 6 fully built ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4 Sub Amp: 2 DC 5ks with TM dual Inputs and TM quad speaker imputs 4 XS Power D3100s with custom 1/2 aluminum buss bars in rear (made by me) Here is a list of equipment that i want or need may change Cooling for amps in rear More interior speakers??? (maybe birch roof) Jy or limitless lithium 80ah Another singer 340 alt get better HU and eq/processor( and maybe a Tablet?)
  2. Starting a build log, dont know where to start this log so ill just post up pics. Btw im going for more of a SQ type of system. But keep in mind in a noob lol, just check out my posts from last year (joined around august i think) and you'll see how clueless i was lol. Theres my Mechman 240 alt with my Knu 4/0 (0000aught), ill be running 4/0 for big 3-4 and for front to back run to stock location rear battery.
  3. So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures
  4. Scaifeee

    Sub Searching

    I'm in search for a decent 12" sub preferably under $150 that can handle 500 watts or more. Thinking about getting a Soundqubed HDS2 or S3. Any other suggestions?
  5. Hello i recently purchased a Pioneer AVH-X3700BHS Head unit. And I wired it according to Metra’s wiring harness. I have the power red wire connected to the 12v ignition wire (red to red) and the memory wire connected to the yellow (yellow to yellow) for some reason when I turn off my car, my head unit stays on. I’m fairly new at wiring and installing head units so I’m kind of confused as to why my head unit will not turn off when I turn off the ignition. Is it possible for the head unit to be getting power from elsewhere? Or is it as well possible that the Metra wiring harness has a few wires turned around wrong? Or can something be wrong with the car? I know with the factory head unit, no problems occurred. Sorry for all the questions but I’m just confused. I’m installing it into a 2016 Kia Soul. I’m hoping someone here can help me diagnose my problem. TIA
  6. WalledSonic

    Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit

    Decided to take this thing apart since it was already out of the car. Brands inside: CapXon Nichicon Forgot my D'Amore CD was inside Any self-respecting Japanese electronics company would surely have some Nichicon caps on the board. The black cap that says KM is a CapXon Chips and such The CD functionality takes up most of the space in the Single DIN casing Had to tuck in all the ribbons to put it back together. DSP and RCA switches Faceless Face
  7. My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Wk that I've built myself . * + 7,000 RMS * Over 2,000 Working Hours ! * 6 - SPL PRO Series Multiple World Record Winner SUBS * 3 - PRS-D 2000SPL Series Mono Amps * 1 - X3.2k4 World's Most Powerful 4 Channel Amp * 4 - 8' SPL series Mids * 2 - 6.5' SPL series Mids * 2 - SPL series Tweets * 5 - 95a AGM Batteries * 6 - Runs 1/0 Silver Tinned OFC Copper Wire * BC RACING Coilovers * Tons of Metra Ballistic Insulation * Stinger DVM * Singer 275A Alternator * CTEK MXS 25 500a Charger * KNU Conceptz CRYSTAL Cable Rca's * 6 - KNU Conceptz 300a Fusing * Knu 300a Fuses * Rockford Fosgate Fusing , wiring ... *Tool Maker USA Custom Made Battery Terminals * Pac Audio Interface * Russian Baltic birch wood * 6 Precision Ports ..... * Custom Built Battery And Amp Racks... Much Much More..... Enjoy !
  8. FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING '14 UPGRADES! Larger MechMan, More XS Power, RF Stuff, SHCA Cable +, & more!!! FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING/SUMMER '13 UPGRADES! RF, Fi Audio, XS Power, MechMan, Stinger, Knu, & more!!! Installed in Spring '12: (Everything Is Box-Fresh New, ... except Kicker ZX550.3 - which I bought brand new in '05 ...) Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 (6.5" Components) Kicker Comp C12 (2 12", 4-ohm, SVC) Kicker 05ZX550.3 (1st Generation) Axxess GMOS-01 & ASWC Dynamat 4awg POS/NEG Runs Big 3 Pioneer FH-P8000BT - AM/FM/CD/USB/iPod/AUX1/AUX2/BlueTooth ... Installing the Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in same location as the OEM components, w/ minimum modifications needed. XTC foams used to protect them, but cut open on the bottom backside to allow for venting & wire connections. Since the Infinity x-overs are so large, I am mounting them in the trunk, & keeping the front door panels in one piece, & everything will look OEM with the stock grilles untouched. Amplifier is a Kicker 05ZX550.3 - 3 channel ... 2 channel stereo & a mono block side for the subs to run in 2 ohm mode ... Everything is new, including the amp ... even though its model year is 2005, & it is well-rated over its stated power, etc. (NOT my photo.) Kicker Comps. (NOT my photo.) The trunk volume of a 2003 Monte Carlo is 15.8cf. NO part of the car's rear deck/chassis is being cut or altered whatsoever - which I think is important, ... I firmly believe in not messing with a vehicle's structural integrity. This is my first time with an IB. I have always done the two 12's, sealed, & been done with it ... but the booomin' of those enclosures has worn thin on me after 20 years, ... so I wanted to do something different ... & something no one else around here has really done, or is doing, & certainly reclaiming trunk space for road trips, shopping, etc., is an extra, added bonus. I am paying particularly close attention to wood thickness, & mixture of types of wood, & sandwiching the MDF to give the bass a "warmer" sound by eliminating any high-pitched echo effects from the denser MDF, etc. I will radius the openings slightly as the platform makes its last transition "up" from MDF to birch to help kill any air noise that may have wanted to creep up, & out ... I will break out the bondo for that task ... Smoooooothness ... I do not expect too much vibration, but I will still use Liquid Nails to seal the "planks" together, & some coarse deck screws to further secure the structure. Additionally, I have large pieces of 1/2" - 1" of very dense foam in which to place between the top of the mounting platform, & the bottom of the rear deck ... looking in from the trunk ... where the factory amp/booster used to be ... I may have to use two pieces of foam, each one the FULL size of the rear deck, to get the desired leveled mounting. Besides the nearly 1" pieces I do have, I have as thin as 1/4" ... Therefore I do have options, & am not left to shove this in there with 2" or 3" of foam, & being left to deal with it. The type of IB platform/baffle I am building here is the following: One piece of 3/4" MDF sandwiched between two pieces of 3/4" genuine baltic birch. Then a ring of 3/4" birch is glued, screwed, & bondo'd to the bottom, & the sub will be screwed to the rings, & "hang" on either side like a cow's utters so they can "fire" up through the rear deck where the OEM 6x9's used to be housed. Well, this is what I have for right now, hopefully I have grabbed someone's attention enough that he/she got this far in the post. Leave a MSG! Follow me! Give me warm wishes. Criticism. Bitch me out! Just do NOT tell me that Ford's are better!!! *** EDITED IN 2014 BECAUSE PHOTOBUCKET SCREWED UP MY LINKS & FOR HEADER CHANGES ***
  9. I have a few concerns about the knockoff bluetooth adapters on eBay. Ones like these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R3.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xalpine+blu.TRS0&_nkw=alpine+bluetooth+adapter&_sacat=0 It says in bold lettering on most of these listings that control of playback like play/pause or next track is not possible. This can mean only one thing: that the bluetooth adapter is using a cheap internal DAC to convert the Bluetooth signal into a aux input, essentially. Am I correct in assuming this? If so, I imagine the quality of them is pretty terrible. Anyone have any experience with these?
  10. I need some help, I have 2 pioneer 12" stw-305c and I need to make a box for them. I'm going for a ported box with a slot port tuned to 34hz and I just can't get the port and box size right. I'm new to building boxes and if anyone could give me some dimensions that would be great.
  11. bluegmcjimmy

    which deck?

    Ok i have 2 decks, 1st is an Alpine cde-7872 (old school) that i modded for AUX option, it has great features and its a single din, and my second is a pioneer 700bt double din, it has aux, bluetooth and usb functions, it does have good eq settings but i use my cross-over and my eq-6500 7band instead of the deck eq, which would you guys choose... just looking looking for others 2 cents
  12. Parting with my beloved 80PRS .... Don't really want to see her go but I'm not one to waste amazing hardware Selling this unit for $260 $220+ total shipping costs PayPal verified only ... Unit is in great condition. Comes with bluetooth mic and TA mic. Also has wiring harness and remote plus faceplate case Photos below (sorry if not great but taken with iphone 7 plus aka my next listing)
  13. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  14. Hello, I just want to introduce you build for my friend. It consists of: 2x Sundown X15 2x Crescendo BC3500D 1x Crescendo Concerto C1100.4 1x ARC audio 4ch (dont know the exact model) 4x Crescendo PWX 10 4x Crescendo FT1 Tweeters 1x Powercell 4000 battery in front (we do the 3 big upgrades of course ) 2x CZ audio 115Ah batteries in back 2x Exide AGM 50Ah in the back - running on stock 120Ah alternator - Pionner 2DIN radio The sundown´s are in 6th Bandpass enclosure (4th was planned and builded but it wasnt what we want so we upgrade it to 6th ) tuned from 18hz running on two bridget Crescendo BC 3500D (metered over 5kW and 0,85ohm+ impedance in bridge - 0,425ohm on each amp) Some scores (metered on the front window) 147db @ 20hz driver window opened 150,4db @ 30hz sealed 154db @ 30hz driver window opened Here are more pics from build: https://www.facebook.com/miqra/media_set?set=a.10206386572810730.1073741861.1460274342&type=3 And here some youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cwWGOAvA8g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4JODrZ6Y2I
  15. Like the title says.... Getting rid of this bad boy, has all accessories (even the GPS antenna) except USB wire which you can pick up any where (USB extension cable).... I will let this go for $675 shipped.... Price: $675 PAYPAL ONLY Shipping within continental US only ***MODs I took photo last night but had issues getting onto the PC hope yesterday date ok*** Buy with confidence, long time member of the community...
  16. Decided to throw my pioneer AVH-P4300DVD in the new truck, I have more plans also but this will be a slow build. I just pulled the trim about 5 min ago. I'll report back when I'm done For anyone who hasn't seen the truck Stock radio This trim is a pain in the ass I'll post back here when I'm done, working on it now
  17. Ok, so I have a Pioneer AVH#### head unit, and the volume it distorts at is 37. So when adjusting the gain on the JAD 1200.1 I can max out the gain on the amp and still get no distortion, but even when I have the gain all the way up and put the actual head unit into distortion above 37 I still get no distortion from the amplifier. I do notice that when adjusting the gains I hit tiny bits of distortion but it quickly goes away. Could there possibly be an issue somewhere with the amp? Has anyone had any similar issues? Note that I have 2 of these amps and I get similar results with both of them. I know it may be a slim chance both of them would have the same problems, but you never know.
  18. Sup Guyz, Names Rob from Hawaii, new here figured I would start a build log of my 2005 Mazda 3i. I have a long way to go but I am pretty happy with the way my system sounds right now. I don't compete the scene isn't that big where I live and I did the entire build on my own. Its nothing special compiled with things I have acquired over the years. My system right now it consists of - Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X6500BT EQ - Clarion EQS746 Steering Wheel Interface - PAC SWI-PS Front Sound Stage - West Coast Customs/Diamond D6 X-Over running Polk DB Tweeters and WCC/D6 6x8 Mids Rear Fill - Pioneer TS-A6880R Sub stage- 2 DD1512a in 3.15cu box tuned to 38hz (This is actually a replica of the specs of the Attrend approved enclosure on DD's website ) Amps- Front & Rears on Alpine PDXF4 Subs Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D
  19. Bassknucklehead626

    Rockford Fosgate vs. American Bass

    Hey all on this forum. I have a debate whether I want to use 2 old school Rockford Fosgate 1001BD power amps to push 2 MTX Audio 9515-44s or instead go for an American Bass PH-4000 MD to push them @ 1ohm. Power consumption isn't really a concern but I want to know if it's worth getting 2 RF amps or just having one amp to push them both.
  20. Here is the log for my install in my 2009 Honda fit, goes through all the install except detailed pics of the headunit install. Some of this was written as a guide for other fit owners so it may seem weird, just wanted to detail the doors and such so that other fit owners would know what to expect. Here is a picture of the headunit and DMM I put in the dash. Here are a couple pictures of the power wire. This is directly above the gas pedal area. And here is a picture of it in the engine bay. Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down. Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area. Heres a couple more shots of the power wire. This was only what I had on hand for power wire, I am working on getting some 0AWG after completing my BIG 3 which is happening this week, as I am picking up my Shuriken BT35 battery today. I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car. I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this was left over from my wife's SQ stash, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it. Here is the breaker just after putting it in and sealing the screw that it mounts with. Next the same area with the cable. Here it is all tightened up. An upper view of the breaker. And finally, the sub amp mounted and the mids and highs amp is on the other seat back in the picture below the sub amp picture. I retained use of my cars child seat features by mounting the amp high enough to clear the bracket. Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you. Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw. Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself. Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness. After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw. After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.
  21. Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"
  22. Hey guys, Got a 4100 NEX, I installed a few weeks ago. I knew at that point I needed a 4100 specific bypass. Ordered it, came in yesterday, installed it the exact way the previous one was. Problem is I use to NOT be able to select the OK option when the warning about park brake came up. After bypass, it is selectable but the picture still doesn't show. I tried a DVD this morning just to make sure the bypass is working and it does play in Park and in Drive. What am i doing wrong? iPhone 6+ hooked up in USB 1 and iPod (3rd Gen) in USB 2. I can play music fine from iPod but no dice on the music videos. Any ideas? Thanks, Keagan
  23. Figured I'd start this now. Before I say anything more, I am going to start with this disclaimer: this build is going to be slow, but then really fast. I can't put one component in without having the rest. So, it's going to be 2-3 months of designing, planning, and procrastinating, and then it's all going to come together in a week's worth of work (hopefully). I'm only starting it this early to hopefully get some help/tips/thoughts to help me see something I may not have. Now that that's out of the way, here she is: The Blazer was having problems, tranny was making noises and starter was starting to go and I didn't trust it to drive out of the city. It legitimately was the biggest source of stress in my life. Threw in the towel, got the car. Got tint done this weekend too. Here's what I pulled out of the Blazer. All of this will be transferred to the Impala: For my head unit, it will be an 80PRS. Just ordered the dash kit, wiring harness, and antennae adapter. I really hope I can get the voltage meter in the pocket under the HU (because I'm going from double DIN). Not really sure where else to put them. Now I had both digital and analog voltage and ammeters before, but I might not be able to do the analog this time. I would still like to. Here's what I'm working with: For my tweeters, I'm reusing the Vifa NE25VTS. I will be putting them in the sail panels. I still have to decide aiming, any thoughts? I think I am going to aim both at either the center between the two seats, or opposite headrests. I did the latter in the Blazer and liked it so that's a sure fallback. But I just ordered spare sail panels to play with. Mids will be Stereo Integrity TM65s. Will be fully sealing and deadening the doors, as well as applying the KHA method of driver treatment, including the foam ring to the plastic door panel. Will be nice to actually fit drivers behind the stock door panel. For my substage, I'll be running only one Dayton HO 15. Since my seats don't fold down, I've decided to do a 4th order firing through the speaker grills in the rear deck. I will be doing 2 cubes rear chamber, 1.6 cubes net at 54Hz with two 5" ports for the front chamber. Here's the grill I'll be firing through and the trunk I'm working with: For my amps, I will be running the Soundstream REF2.370 for tweeters, a Ground Zero 4200XII bridged to the mids at 8ohms, and a Ground Zero 2400XII bridged to the sub at 4ohms. Not quite sure on placement, but I think in the trunk what I'm going to do is put all wiring in between the sub box and seat, box right behind that, and then the amps placed vertically in a row (side to side, so looking from trunk like this: = = =) with the rear covers off. Then I'll put plexiglass over the amps, so when all is done, looking in the trunk all you'll see is the amp guts. Plus, I'll still have half my trunk. Pretty excited about being able to make this look pretty OEM. Only thing that will be different is HU and tweeters. What's the best cheap deadener now?
  24. I have a pioneer avh-x1700s and it doesnt come with bluetooth/hands-free, can it still be installed separate ?
  25. I am looking to put a Pioneer AVH-4100NEX in my 08 Denali. As a first stab at determining how to integrate and retain some of the factory features I used the Crutchfield website and a chat with one of their reps to get part numbers. Then I went to price them out via amazon and have some found poor reviews of these products (although there aren't many reviews, they're all bad). I was told by Crutchfield that the idatalink maestro module is not compatible with the 08 Denali with bose (the lux audio system) with nav. So I was pointed to a Metra Axxess AX-ADBOX1 module and the accompanying harness AX-ADGM01. These are the products that have few, but highly questionable reviews. While I realize it'd be rare for someone to have the exact application, I'm just wondering if anyone has had success with these or similar Metra/Axxess products, or if there's anyone who swears by the idatalink thing. I find it strange that it isn't compatible with my application, I tend to believe the crutchfield people as they likely have some database on hand that tells them these things, but the maestro/datalink website has been down for multiple weeks now and I can't seem to find what I'm looking for as far as application information.