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Found 120 results

  1. Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit

    Decided to take this thing apart since it was already out of the car. Brands inside: CapXon Nichicon Forgot my D'Amore CD was inside Any self-respecting Japanese electronics company would surely have some Nichicon caps on the board. The black cap that says KM is a CapXon Chips and such The CD functionality takes up most of the space in the Single DIN casing Had to tuck in all the ribbons to put it back together. DSP and RCA switches Faceless Face
  2. My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Wk that I've built myself . * + 7,000 RMS * Over 2,000 Working Hours ! * 6 - SPL PRO Series Multiple World Record Winner SUBS * 3 - PRS-D 2000SPL Series Mono Amps * 1 - X3.2k4 World's Most Powerful 4 Channel Amp * 4 - 8' SPL series Mids * 2 - 6.5' SPL series Mids * 2 - SPL series Tweets * 5 - 95a AGM Batteries * 6 - Runs 1/0 Silver Tinned OFC Copper Wire * BC RACING Coilovers * Tons of Metra Ballistic Insulation * Stinger DVM * Singer 275A Alternator * CTEK MXS 25 500a Charger * KNU Conceptz CRYSTAL Cable Rca's * 6 - KNU Conceptz 300a Fusing * Knu 300a Fuses * Rockford Fosgate Fusing , wiring ... *Tool Maker USA Custom Made Battery Terminals * Pac Audio Interface * Russian Baltic birch wood * 6 Precision Ports ..... * Custom Built Battery And Amp Racks... Much Much More..... Enjoy !
  3. I have a few concerns about the knockoff bluetooth adapters on eBay. Ones like these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R3.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xalpine+blu.TRS0&_nkw=alpine+bluetooth+adapter&_sacat=0 It says in bold lettering on most of these listings that control of playback like play/pause or next track is not possible. This can mean only one thing: that the bluetooth adapter is using a cheap internal DAC to convert the Bluetooth signal into a aux input, essentially. Am I correct in assuming this? If so, I imagine the quality of them is pretty terrible. Anyone have any experience with these?
  4. Starting a build log, dont know where to start this log so ill just post up pics. Btw im going for more of a SQ type of system. But keep in mind in a noob lol, just check out my posts from last year (joined around august i think) and you'll see how clueless i was lol. Theres my Mechman 240 alt with my Knu 4/0 (0000aught), ill be running 4/0 for big 3-4 and for front to back run to stock location rear battery.
  5. which deck?

    Ok i have 2 decks, 1st is an Alpine cde-7872 (old school) that i modded for AUX option, it has great features and its a single din, and my second is a pioneer 700bt double din, it has aux, bluetooth and usb functions, it does have good eq settings but i use my cross-over and my eq-6500 7band instead of the deck eq, which would you guys choose... just looking looking for others 2 cents
  6. I need some help, I have 2 pioneer 12" stw-305c and I need to make a box for them. I'm going for a ported box with a slot port tuned to 34hz and I just can't get the port and box size right. I'm new to building boxes and if anyone could give me some dimensions that would be great.
  7. Parting with my beloved 80PRS .... Don't really want to see her go but I'm not one to waste amazing hardware Selling this unit for $260 $220+ total shipping costs PayPal verified only ... Unit is in great condition. Comes with bluetooth mic and TA mic. Also has wiring harness and remote plus faceplate case Photos below (sorry if not great but taken with iphone 7 plus aka my next listing)
  8. Hello, I just want to introduce you build for my friend. It consists of: 2x Sundown X15 2x Crescendo BC3500D 1x Crescendo Concerto C1100.4 1x ARC audio 4ch (dont know the exact model) 4x Crescendo PWX 10 4x Crescendo FT1 Tweeters 1x Powercell 4000 battery in front (we do the 3 big upgrades of course ) 2x CZ audio 115Ah batteries in back 2x Exide AGM 50Ah in the back - running on stock 120Ah alternator - Pionner 2DIN radio The sundown´s are in 6th Bandpass enclosure (4th was planned and builded but it wasnt what we want so we upgrade it to 6th ) tuned from 18hz running on two bridget Crescendo BC 3500D (metered over 5kW and 0,85ohm+ impedance in bridge - 0,425ohm on each amp) Some scores (metered on the front window) 147db @ 20hz driver window opened 150,4db @ 30hz sealed 154db @ 30hz driver window opened Here are more pics from build: https://www.facebook.com/miqra/media_set?set=a.10206386572810730.1073741861.1460274342&type=3 And here some youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cwWGOAvA8g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4JODrZ6Y2I
  9. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  10. Rockford Fosgate vs. American Bass

    Hey all on this forum. I have a debate whether I want to use 2 old school Rockford Fosgate 1001BD power amps to push 2 MTX Audio 9515-44s or instead go for an American Bass PH-4000 MD to push them @ 1ohm. Power consumption isn't really a concern but I want to know if it's worth getting 2 RF amps or just having one amp to push them both.
  11. Like the title says.... Getting rid of this bad boy, has all accessories (even the GPS antenna) except USB wire which you can pick up any where (USB extension cable).... I will let this go for $675 shipped.... Price: $675 PAYPAL ONLY Shipping within continental US only ***MODs I took photo last night but had issues getting onto the PC hope yesterday date ok*** Buy with confidence, long time member of the community...
  12. Ok, so I have a Pioneer AVH#### head unit, and the volume it distorts at is 37. So when adjusting the gain on the JAD 1200.1 I can max out the gain on the amp and still get no distortion, but even when I have the gain all the way up and put the actual head unit into distortion above 37 I still get no distortion from the amplifier. I do notice that when adjusting the gains I hit tiny bits of distortion but it quickly goes away. Could there possibly be an issue somewhere with the amp? Has anyone had any similar issues? Note that I have 2 of these amps and I get similar results with both of them. I know it may be a slim chance both of them would have the same problems, but you never know.
  13. Hey guys, Got a 4100 NEX, I installed a few weeks ago. I knew at that point I needed a 4100 specific bypass. Ordered it, came in yesterday, installed it the exact way the previous one was. Problem is I use to NOT be able to select the OK option when the warning about park brake came up. After bypass, it is selectable but the picture still doesn't show. I tried a DVD this morning just to make sure the bypass is working and it does play in Park and in Drive. What am i doing wrong? iPhone 6+ hooked up in USB 1 and iPod (3rd Gen) in USB 2. I can play music fine from iPod but no dice on the music videos. Any ideas? Thanks, Keagan
  14. Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"
  15. I have a pioneer avh-x1700s and it doesnt come with bluetooth/hands-free, can it still be installed separate ?
  16. I am looking to put a Pioneer AVH-4100NEX in my 08 Denali. As a first stab at determining how to integrate and retain some of the factory features I used the Crutchfield website and a chat with one of their reps to get part numbers. Then I went to price them out via amazon and have some found poor reviews of these products (although there aren't many reviews, they're all bad). I was told by Crutchfield that the idatalink maestro module is not compatible with the 08 Denali with bose (the lux audio system) with nav. So I was pointed to a Metra Axxess AX-ADBOX1 module and the accompanying harness AX-ADGM01. These are the products that have few, but highly questionable reviews. While I realize it'd be rare for someone to have the exact application, I'm just wondering if anyone has had success with these or similar Metra/Axxess products, or if there's anyone who swears by the idatalink thing. I find it strange that it isn't compatible with my application, I tend to believe the crutchfield people as they likely have some database on hand that tells them these things, but the maestro/datalink website has been down for multiple weeks now and I can't seem to find what I'm looking for as far as application information.
  17. Posted this in the wrong section. Moving here. Hi Everyone, Took me a while but I finally ran into SMD website since lately I've been upgrading my car audio for my 06 Avalanche. I don't have anything wild and probably will keep it this way until I can get the bigger bucks. I sure wish I had found this site before I went ahead and got what I have in now. Nevertheless I am content at the moment. I have a couple questions from browsing for the past 2 weeks on this site and watching all of Steve's tutorial and build videos. My build: HU: Pioneer AVH X4500BT (Will upgrade to NEX 4100) Subwoofers: 2 Rockford 10" R2SD4-10 Shallow 4ohm DVC Enclosure: Dual Sealed Amplifier: P500-1bd Wired: @ 1ohm using 4gauge wires (500RMS) Door Speakers: Rear: Polk Audio db651s Coaxial Front: Db6501 Components Amplifier: Pioneer GM A5602 Wired: @ 4ohms (150RMS) Like I said nothing too wild but a great improvement over factory. I already know for one after watching Steve do his thing, I want and NEED a DD-1, two) I want and NEED OM-1s. Lol Questions: 1) Since Im wired 1ohm using the above amp using the RF wiring guide for the above subs. Would I need 2 OM-1 to reflect 2 subs output or just 1. 2) When adjusting gain for mids & high, seeing that I have what I believe is a passive crossover, I tried doing this "by ear" and man do the tweets scream, don't even think I heard the mids, I don't even think the gain was even quarter of the way up before I had to back off. I know this wasn't the most efficient way of tuning but until I can get the DD-1, are the polks that loud that the gain would not even need to be adjusted that much even when using the DD-1? Sorry for the long first thread. Ill post pictures when I can. Thanks, Keagan
  18. Figured I'd start this now. Before I say anything more, I am going to start with this disclaimer: this build is going to be slow, but then really fast. I can't put one component in without having the rest. So, it's going to be 2-3 months of designing, planning, and procrastinating, and then it's all going to come together in a week's worth of work (hopefully). I'm only starting it this early to hopefully get some help/tips/thoughts to help me see something I may not have. Now that that's out of the way, here she is: The Blazer was having problems, tranny was making noises and starter was starting to go and I didn't trust it to drive out of the city. It legitimately was the biggest source of stress in my life. Threw in the towel, got the car. Got tint done this weekend too. Here's what I pulled out of the Blazer. All of this will be transferred to the Impala: For my head unit, it will be an 80PRS. Just ordered the dash kit, wiring harness, and antennae adapter. I really hope I can get the voltage meter in the pocket under the HU (because I'm going from double DIN). Not really sure where else to put them. Now I had both digital and analog voltage and ammeters before, but I might not be able to do the analog this time. I would still like to. Here's what I'm working with: For my tweeters, I'm reusing the Vifa NE25VTS. I will be putting them in the sail panels. I still have to decide aiming, any thoughts? I think I am going to aim both at either the center between the two seats, or opposite headrests. I did the latter in the Blazer and liked it so that's a sure fallback. But I just ordered spare sail panels to play with. Mids will be Stereo Integrity TM65s. Will be fully sealing and deadening the doors, as well as applying the KHA method of driver treatment, including the foam ring to the plastic door panel. Will be nice to actually fit drivers behind the stock door panel. For my substage, I'll be running only one Dayton HO 15. Since my seats don't fold down, I've decided to do a 4th order firing through the speaker grills in the rear deck. I will be doing 2 cubes rear chamber, 1.6 cubes net at 54Hz with two 5" ports for the front chamber. Here's the grill I'll be firing through and the trunk I'm working with: For my amps, I will be running the Soundstream REF2.370 for tweeters, a Ground Zero 4200XII bridged to the mids at 8ohms, and a Ground Zero 2400XII bridged to the sub at 4ohms. Not quite sure on placement, but I think in the trunk what I'm going to do is put all wiring in between the sub box and seat, box right behind that, and then the amps placed vertically in a row (side to side, so looking from trunk like this: = = =) with the rear covers off. Then I'll put plexiglass over the amps, so when all is done, looking in the trunk all you'll see is the amp guts. Plus, I'll still have half my trunk. Pretty excited about being able to make this look pretty OEM. Only thing that will be different is HU and tweeters. What's the best cheap deadener now?
  19. Looking to get rid of my pioneer avic-z130bt Cosmetic I'll give it a 8/10 because it has some minor scratches Functionality it is 10/10. Asking $350 o.b.o and I'll pay shipping. Price is flexible so don't be afraid to make me an offer. Not interested in any trades. PayPal is the only form of payment I'll take unless you are local to me. Forgot to add I already did the bypass mod to the harness so you can watch dvd's while driving. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/GPS-Navigation/AVIC-Z130BT
  20. Rockford R750-1D

    Ok guys, as stated in the title, I have a Rockford R750-1D amp. Birth sheet said it put out 880 watts at 1-ohm. Plenty of power out of this little amp. My head unit is a pioneer deh-p5000ub which is powering 4 kicker 6.5" coaxials (yes I know thats not the best but I was on a budget). The amp is powering two Rockford P-2 12" dual voice coil woofers wired to 1-ohm. I was looking for an amp when i came across one of Meade's videos dynoing this amp. I have the subs in a sealed box at the moment that so happens to be way too small for them. I am looking to make a new box for them but im in a Trans Am which does not have much trunk space. Dont want to remove the back seat either because I do haul passengers on occasion. Im also looking to go ported on the box but this requires me to have 3.58 cu. ft. of air volume. My question is; Do I have enough space to make a ported encloser or do i have to stick to sealed? Also, Meade, I was wondering how you hooked up this amp to your dyno to get those numbers. Did you just use one of the speaker outputs or both? If both, how did you wire them?
  21. I have had a love of car audio ever since high school when i had my first real subs, a pair of Blue Thunder 12's. Because of this love i have spent umpteen hours reading magazines, books and on forums just like this reading and learning all I can. Over the years i have designed and built alot of decent stereo systems for friends and family but never have i had the chance to build myself that cranking stereo system i always wanted. Until now. My build will be a never ending learning process with my end goal to have a vehicle that every time i am in it and i hear and feel the bass it puts a grin on my face. I also think it would be cool to compete just to meet people with the same passion i have and pick their brains. So i was in the market for a new ride to build up and i have always liked Tahoes so i have been watching the Canadian Gov Auction for a deal on an ex RCMP one. Well i found one bid 6 grand and won.. here she is a 2009 Special Services Tahoe for 6 grand.. It needed some tlc and a center console (which i bough a silverados fold down jump seat instead). The first thing i did after i picked it up was pull over a block away from the compound and smake a fat joint to christen it. Now since i had the vehicle i could go about getting all the gear i wanted... Deck - Pioneer avic8000-nex and reverse camera Processor- Arc Audio PS8 Amps- Arc Audio KS 2500.1, Arc Audio XDI v2 1200.6 Front Stage - CDT audio ES- 06 6.5" mids, ES- 03MB 3" mids and ES- 010 26mm silk dome tweeters Subs - 2 x Sundown Audio 12" Z v.4 D1 Batteries - 2 x Kinetic HC 1800 Alternator - Singer 270 amp Alternator Sound Deadening - Aprox 210 square feet of dynamat extreme Deck: Amps and Processor: Front Stage: Subs: Batteries: Power Wires : Speaker Wire: Now a couple things all my pics are taken with my iphone and i am terrible at remembering to take pics So we begin the fun part to follow....
  22. Okay So i have a 90 Bronco, I just got a new amplifier "My old one did the same thing" so anyways when ever i turn the Key to (On) position the amplifier fade in slowly how it should. Now when I start my truck, the subs will go "BANG" loudly as the head unit turns on after starting the engine. My Amplifier is a Power Bass 600.2; also yes it's all wired correctly "I'm a freak when it comes to making things look good and connecting it right, not half ass shit" anyways Remote is connected to the (Blue Remote Out) A.K.A Antenna Signal) same thing. But this only happens when I start my Truck. I have grounds every where "Also lets Mind You that all the ground points are Shiny Wire brushed Ground Points" So I know for a fact I have great Grounds EVERYWHERE even for the head unit I ran it's own ground to Bare Unpainted Metal. If this helps I have... Pioneer DEH-150MP Head Unit Power Bass 600.2 Bridged Running Two 12" Kicker Comps. Amplifier power Wire is 4 Gauge & the Remote Wire is a 18 Gauge All the Wiring Kit is a good Quality kit.
  23. What enclosure?

    Hey! I have 2 pioneer ts-w3003d4 subs and i was wondering about a few things! I now have a ported box with 1 chamber and a square port tuned at 31 hz and 3,624 ft3 (102l). The bass is rally lound and feels good at songs with low frequenzy bass, but when i play songs that have a bass with a faster higher frequenzy the bass almost dissapears. is this a tuning problem that I could solve by building a new envclosure? I was thinking about a new enclosure with 2 chambers at 1.5 ft3 (45l) each and tune it to 38Hz. Is this a good choise or will this solve nothing? I still want to maintain hard bass at low frequenzies but i want to still be able to play faster songs... The enclusure i have now uses backprezure from one sub, so i was wondering how this will change sound if I seperate the subs into 2 chambers? Any answer would be great!
  24. About a year ago my friend bought an '04 Mustang with the Mach 460 Factory stereo. Replaced the head-unit with a Pioneer double din touch screen. Not long after that we put in two 10in RF p2's and move the factory 6x8 subs to the rear channel so they still made some sound to fill in. This weekend I went and installed two sets of RF Punch P1683's and a set of P1T-s tweeters to put in the door sail panels. Did the right side door first, tested it, went good. Moved to the rear deck lid, installed them, tested, sounded good. Next I went to the drivers door, ran the wires, plugged in the speakers, and that door sounded like crap. Tested the speaker and it was good so I thought it might be the wire that comes from the deck. Next day rerun the wire from the deck through to the door. Still crap. Then I pulled the wires that went to the tweeter x-over out of the picture and the door speakers sounded fine again. When I told my dad all of this later that day he thought it could be the x-over for that tweeter, so I thought i would come here and ask what you guys think. Right now hes just driving it around without that one tweeter plugged in. I will be adding an amp in for the speakers but we're waiting for it to come in stock.
  25. So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures