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how to determine how much to shrink box for extra power?


Fatman489

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On 4k plus watts I think it will besides the fact its not nearly as loud as it should be now the box its in has to be redone regardless and a second 2200d will be had or a single 3500.1d ... then shortly after the 18 will be replaced 2ith 2 12s anyway so thanks for the input guys

DFAC

Beating Down The Block

2013 Kenworth T-660 Studio Sleeper-The daily and Money maker

I do what I want -push it till it pops!

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I was mainly looking for how to do it myself .. but currently its an hdc3 18 in roughly 5.75 cubes with 97.5 sqin port at 36hz on an aq2200d at 1 ohm ... thinking about strapping a second 2200d at 4ohm to start ..then 1ohm strapped at some point.. was planning on building a new box at 5 cubes with 2 6" psp aeros for the single 2200d but trying to shrink the box as much as possible lol

The box you mentioned here with 5 cubes sounds good. I would give it a shot and see what happens. I'm a firm believer in small boxes to begin with so go for it.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

Im glad this was said, I agree entirely.

Team NorthWestSPL

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Yes its for sure a music box ... I dont care about termlab numbers at all ... just want it louder to my ear ... also Tacoma I disagree tbat strapping at 4 is pointless ... same power as one at 1ohm but more amp to take the heat and such ... but it will go down to 1 ohm shortly after just want to get the second amp in and working right before I drop both amps to .5 ohm .... but bkolfo just kinda mind effed me lol ... I realize I will lose some efficiency but im purdy much lost on the rest of your post lol .... but if my very tired mind got you right what your saying is go bigger on the box and push the sub just a hair under its breaking point ? ... mechanical or thermal which ever is less power ... I may just have to do a full on rear seat delete to get the kinda output im after it seems

DFAC

Beating Down The Block

2013 Kenworth T-660 Studio Sleeper-The daily and Money maker

I do what I want -push it till it pops!

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You should also consider that doubling the power to the sub will just get you a couple of dB.

An increase of 10 dB is twice as loud to the average human ear. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

While I also agree with what your saying I think his current box is way to big to begin with. I have seen tons and tons of 18" setups and most are in boxes around 5 cubes or less. I think he is taking the right approach if he is set on adding more power. There is still plenty of low end to be had in a box of 5 cubes.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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You should also consider that doubling the power to the sub will just get you a couple of dB.

An increase of 10 dB is twice as loud to the average human ear. . .

3db.. Not 10db

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

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