purplesyrup Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 OK, my head unit is in and working fine now, so I figured I'd run a clamp test to see if it made any difference at my cars resonant frequency, I am tuned to 36 hz, but my peak SPL in competition is 47 hz. Off of the factory head unit my highest clamp i've ever done at 47 hz was 1,200 watts, which sucked cause im not using any power at my peak hz. Here is how todays clamp went, remember, stock electrical, stock battery up front, stock 150 amp alternator, no big 3. the car was running and idles at 13.6 volts. I kinda rushed through it, I was in my driveway and wanted to only piss my neighbors off for a few minutes, my step son filmed the whole clamp test, but the picture is upside down, I need to put it on the computer and see if I can flip it. The bet part is after the 47 hz blast his saying "The sound is making my eyes hurt" lol 27hz 2,200 watts 28hz 2,184 29hz 2,204 30hz 2,142 31hz 2,109 36hz 1,888 40hz 1,492 I have some box rise that seems to start around 35/36hz and goes through approx. 44hz, I want to re clamp from 33hz through 46hz to pin point exactly what is happening, and see where the power loss is. It was very loud (neighbors like wtf) so after I did 40 hz, I went straight for 47 hz which is around my peak hz, 47 hz 2,200 Now given, when I add a batterie(s) and get my alternator, I will be able to provide the amp with power to make what its capable of producing. So from clamps im getting 1,000 more watts at my peak 47 hz now, so it is significantly louder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Also, this is ran at 1 ohm, keep in mind, im definitely getting some crazy voltage drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ok, now this brings up a question, which I have had answered before, but want to double check because I have some confusion, I have a dual 2 ohm sub on the crescendo BC3500D, it has dual inputs on the amp so this is how I have it wired, my lowest impedance on the clamp test was 2.12 ohms. when I have been told its wired at 1 ohm. AMP + <+speaker wire----------------------------- + <+speaker wire----------------------------- - <-speaker wire------------------------------ so basicly a run of 8 gauge to each positive and negative on the sub, to each pos and neg on amp. - <-speaker wire------------------------------ In the past I was told the amp is internally bridged so this is wired at 1 ohm, is this at all correct?? Or am I running at 2 ohms? the whole dual inputs on the amp is whats throwing me off and making me wonder, because I really cant find any info on it on the net in this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Box rise is a bitch. Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmrcs Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ok, now this brings up a question, which I have had answered before, but want to double check because I have some confusion, I have a dual 2 ohm sub on the crescendo BC3500D, it has dual inputs on the amp so this is how I have it wired, my lowest impedance on the clamp test was 2.12 ohms. when I have been told its wired at 1 ohm. AMP + <+speaker wire----------------------------- + <+speaker wire----------------------------- - <-speaker wire------------------------------ so basicly a run of 8 gauge to each positive and negative on the sub, to each pos and neg on amp. - <-speaker wire------------------------------ In the past I was told the amp is internally bridged so this is wired at 1 ohm, is this at all correct?? Or am I running at 2 ohms? the whole dual inputs on the amp is whats throwing me off and making me wonder, because I really cant find any info on it on the net in this way. Pretty sure it's running at 1 ohm like that. If you want to check then just move a positive wire to the other positive wire and a negative wire to the other negative wire and that will also be 1 ohm. See if your drop is the same like that? But pretty durn sure it's paralleled inside. E34 540iT/6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 I believe you can treat the amp inputs as a "single" input..... As far as ohm loads go... But it's there so you don't have a bottle neck effect on your speaker wires... Imagine 4 subs all the speaker wires soldered together into just 1 positive and 1 negative....would seem kinda limiting. But with 2 inputs tat combine inside the amp it's a bit more efficient on the bottle neck thing My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 That's the word I was looking for... The dual inputs on the outside of the amp for speaker wires are paralleled internally My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmrcs Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ay yo syrup boy I want to see the video where he says his eyes hurt! E34 540iT/6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ay yo syrup boy I want to see the video where he says his eyes hurt!OK, let me load it on the computer and see if I can flip it. you can hear him make a whining sound, then the comment follows, lol, the addition of the new head unit has make my peak hz pretty disgusting now, lol Heres another question to be sure I did things proper. I clamped both power wires to the sub nearest to the amp, then on my DMM, the most I could do was only one set of wires running to the sub, so the dmm was only connected to one VC. therefore, the figure on the DMM, must be multiplied by 2, correct? This is how I calculated the wattage, Thats another thing I searched for, and found one video explaining that, but Im just double checking as this was my first clamp test ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplesyrup Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Video will be posted here shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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