Need Bass Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I think my younger brother just hooked his LEDs straight to the leads that were for tweeters in the prefab box he had worked nicely My Build Log Heros get remembered, but legends never die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 They make sound sensitive cathode kits.. Or you can get a kit that has different settings - http://www.ledunderbody.com/SMD-LED-Interior-Lighting-Kit.aspx?=sitelink=LeftNav It gets a little pricey, but if its the features your after, then go for it. thanks for the help. just knowing the terminology is 90% of the problem! lol [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I think my younger brother just hooked his LEDs straight to the leads that were for tweeters in the prefab box he had worked nicely ya thats because there is probably nothing over 10-15 volts. thats what the leds run at. my amp puts out about 38 volts :/ Hook them up to a 12v source, not your amp. ok, the question is still how do you get them to pulse with the bass? Just buy one of those corny ass Dual boxes. those piece of shit dual boxes work because there is not enough voltage to worry i mean come on do the math. [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need Bass Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Yea, good point, it was on an ancientcoustic 360 watt amp before I upgraded lol My Build Log Heros get remembered, but legends never die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommonSyns Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Why not hook up the leds to the terminal on the subwoofer box? That's what I did till I gave my sub away to my friend. Worked perfectly, led pods did not get hot at all. They flashed only when the volume was high enough, if it was low they did not flash. Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box) Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1 Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1 Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1 JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 DEH80-PRS XS Power d3400 Singer Alternator 275A 98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 buy the kit at autozone....its like $30 i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Why not hook up the leds to the terminal on the subwoofer box? That's what I did till I gave my sub away to my friend. Worked perfectly, led pods did not get hot at all. They flashed only when the volume was high enough, if it was low they did not flash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommonSyns Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Why not hook up the leds to the terminal on the subwoofer box? That's what I did till I gave my sub away to my friend. Worked perfectly, led pods did not get hot at all. They flashed only when the volume was high enough, if it was low they did not flash. That's actually never happened in all 4 year I had the system in. Leds produce very little heat. Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box) Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1 Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1 Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1 JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 DEH80-PRS XS Power d3400 Singer Alternator 275A 98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassHead88 Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 this was a setup i used to have in my subaru legacy back in the day, just hook the leds into the speaker inputs on the amp, they wont blow well i never had an issue. pretty cool though. haha blue lights everywhere !http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRx6mtm-AbY TEAM Northwest SPL TEAM SHOK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassHead88 Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 leds draw very little power, you can hook them into amp inputs they wont do a thing but pulse with the bass TEAM Northwest SPL TEAM SHOK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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