bdog Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 you have plenty of room for those two subs REP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor Matheson Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 you have plenty of room for those two subsIk I was talking about wiggling that big of a box into the trunk, I was being sarcastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Eh where would I find specifications for a box design ... I am not so good at finding nor creating such a box.. What are the max dimensions for a box that you can fit in it's way in, a cardboard dummy box can help you find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor Matheson Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I measured it all up, and preferably 26IN Long, 42IN Wide and 14IN Height. I would kinda like a little room in the back, plus the amp has to go somewhere... EDIT~ these are just rounded measurements, Nothing exact by any means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Ok so here is a suggestion good to 800 WRMS per sub, port/subs aiming frontwards or backwards, recheck your max dims, dimensions below can changed: Enclosure Specifications:Fb = 34 HzVb = 4 ft^3External Height = 14 inExternal Width = 39.5 inExternal Depth = 21 inPort Width = 4 1/2 inCut Sheet List:* All Dimensions in Inches.* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.External Enclosure Parts:2x Front = 17 1/2 x 12 1/2Back = 39 1/2 x 12 1/2Left & Right Sides: 19 1/2 x 12 1/2Top & Bottom = 39 1/2 x 21Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:2 x Front to Back = 17 1/4 x 12 1/22 x Extension = 2 1/4 x 12 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): - The 45s if you want to do them are 2 1/2" wide except the one/ones inside the port, if you want that let me know.- All trunk boxes built outside the car need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions.- The port needs 4 1/2" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation.- Setting your amp's subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccmotox99 Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 go for dual 2 ohms sundowns, find an amp that'll do good on .5ohm and upgrade your electrical -playing with different setups Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor Matheson Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 go for dual 2 ohms sundowns, find an amp that'll do good on .5ohm and upgrade your electrical I plan on getting a sundown 1500D amp, along with the two speakers specified. I am not willing to spend shit tons of money on this as its my first sub system. Its simply a custom built one that I can call my own. Ok so here is a suggestion good to 800 WRMS per sub, port/subs aiming frontwards or backwards, recheck your max dims, dimensions below can changed: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 4 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 39.5 in External Depth = 21 in Port Width = 4 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2x Front = 17 1/2 x 12 1/2 Back = 39 1/2 x 12 1/2 Left & Right Sides: 19 1/2 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 39 1/2 x 21 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 17 1/4 x 12 1/2 2 x Extension = 2 1/4 x 12 1/2 - The 45s if you want to do them are 2 1/2" wide except the one/ones inside the port, if you want that let me know. - All trunk boxes built outside the car need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions. - The port needs 4 1/2" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation. - Setting your amp's subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested. This is insane? Did you just figure all this out for me or are you getting this off of some website? Also, those are basically the max dimensions I am willing to use, considering that I need alittle space in the back... Its a shared vehicle for the time being... also took the height off of the second lowest point in the trunk so I could slide the box right to the back, doing this will allow me to fit the amp on top or behind the box (whichever I chose). And another thing the subs will be facing the trunk opening (I heard this is better for a ported sub box in the long run). EDIT~ Thank you so much for the effort you put into this post. This forum is proving to have amazing posters. <3<3 Also the 45's measurements would be awesome, if I am going to make it ill make all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 You're welcome Taylor, Ok, the 45s inside the port need to be done perfectly or not done at all, they should be done exactly as follows: The important thing is that the 45s don't make the port narrower than 2 1/4" (in your case) to each side. Also is important that you round the inner edges of the port at both ends as shown in the pic above. If you have any questions let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 go for dual 2 ohms sundowns, find an amp that'll do good on .5ohm and upgrade your electrical :bsflag: From noob´s for noob´s, stay with the D 4 and go 1 Ohm. The only amps i know who are doing 0.5 Ohm´s with waranty are some Lanzar Opti model´s with lowest poweroutput on 0.5 Ohm is 2000 watt RMS and above. I never saw a clamptest of Lanzar Opti 0.5 Ohm stable amp´s. Here in the discription http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Lanzar-OPTI2001D-2000-Watt-Monoblock-Class-D-OptiDrive-Power-Car-Amp-/310409837117?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item4845de3a3d you can see that they are fused with 120 amp´s that means that they put arround 1200 watt´s @ 1 Ohm. This is a rule by thump math, and idk how the math is for 0.5 Ohm stability, and if it be possible/a logic math 120 amp´s for 2000 watt on 0.5 Ohm. Go with a 1500 watt RMS amp, all the well known brand´s like Sundown, Skar are underrated and would put a little bit more out. But you can need the watt´s in case of the loosing in imprise. Your sub´s will sound more solid. "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_H Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 go for dual 2 ohms sundowns, find an amp that'll do good on .5ohm and upgrade your electrical :bsflag: From noob´s for noob´s, stay with the D 4 and go 1 Ohm. The only amps i know who are doing 0.5 Ohm´s with waranty are some Lanzar Opti model´s with lowest poweroutput on 0.5 Ohm is 2000 watt RMS and above. I never saw a clamptest of Lanzar Opti 0.5 Ohm stable amp´s. Here in the picture you can see that they are fused with 120 amp´s that means that they put arround 1200 watt´s @ 1 Ohm. This is a rule by thump math, and idk how the math is for 0.5 Ohm stability, and if it be possible/a logic math 120 amp´s for 2000 watt on 0.5 Ohm. Go with a 1500 watt RMS amp, all the well known brand´s like Sundown, Skar are underrated and would put a little bit more out. But you can need the watt´s in case of the loosing in imprise. Your sub´s will sound more solid. Well said! Stick with the D4 Sa's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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