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Found 44 results

  1. So I just got a FI BL 18 and I need some advise/designs for a box. I have a 2003 explorer sport and have a decent amount of space in the back. The max I wanna go with outer dimensions is 41" x 20" x 25" (width x height x depth). I was thinking sub on top on passenger side and the port facing the back hatch on the driver side, uned to 30 hz. Let me know if you think otherwise. I'm all ears! One more thing...if anyone has designs for a box please feel free share!
  2. I'm really new with car audio and i need help with my first box. I hear MDF is the best material to use. My first box will be temporary and i plan to upgrade it in the future but i'm on a budget at the moment. The Enclosure will be for 2 Soundqubed Hdc318s and the current measurements will fit easily into my truck. This is what i was got using torres Height:38" Width:56" Depth:18" for the port dimensions Height: 28.5" Width 6.5" Length 25" The program says its tuned at 34.67hz with a net volume of 11.46ft3 and the port area is 16.15in2. Like i said its a temporary box and i just want it to sound decent. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I need help on building a box for (2) 15 inch audiopipe txx-bd-2 subwoofers. Its going into a 2007 Buick lacrosse cxl. Can some give me dimensions?
  4. So I'm wondering what would be best for a dodge ram ex cab. I think I'm going to put the enclosure on my rear seats... Should I have subs up port front? And have the port going in the middle between the seats? Ofr Subs up port back? Side? Please help. Thanks.
  5. Alright so I recently just traded my old sa 15 for a pretty much brand new hdc3 18 d2. However I am currently run 2 obsidian audio 18v2 d4 on a soundqubed 2200. I wondering how much more output I would have by buying another 2200 and another hdc3. The box for the obsidians is roughly 11.5 cubes net. With 3 6 in aero ports. Would this same enclosure work well for the 2 hdc3s. And would it be worth it to upgrade. You thoughts?
  6. Do these box specs look good?
  7. I've been thinking about doing a car trunk build next with 2 12's on a BC 5500 and deadening everything with Alpha Damp Deadener. Thing is: what would be best for LOW-end in a car build, having the enclosure and subs facing the Back of the trunk with the rear seats folded forward? Or, having the subs "sealed off" forward in the trunk? Im allll about Ground Pounding lows, but dont know what would sound best. The other thought that crossed my mind was just saying screw the rear seats and building a wall with 2 18's but i dont really want it to have to come to that. Ok either way im sure with 6000 watts and plenty of sound deadener the system will be nice, but id just like your guys' opinions on the whole situation (especially those with trunk builds themselves, experienced people please, and those who have big wattage like that), thanks!
  8. I'm looking to build a big ported box for 2 alpine type r 10 1042D.. I have a 3000 watt bassinferno amp.. I'm putting them n a 98 blazer 4 door with a drop tail gate.. I want at least 1 cubic ft of air space per sub.. I think subs faced up and big port at bottom of box at the tail gate.. But what ever is best for deep bass.. I only have one hooked up now in a ported box and it sounds good for what it is.. If u have any ideas or specs let me know
  9. This is my first ever custom designed and cut box. it's nothing spectacular, but I definitely think it's a good start and I am sure there's PLENTY of room for improvement. The box is holding a single Crossfire XS 12" driver. The box is going to be carpeted and put in. A YouTube video will soon follow. Volume: 2.57 Cubic Feet Tuning Freq: Approx. 30Hz (after displacement) Dimensions: 26"W x 14"H x 16"D Port: 12.5"H x 2"W x 33"L
  10. Can someone help me design a box for 03 hyundai tiburon. tuned to 33hz or 34hz. the space available i have is 33"W x 15"H x 22"D(from seat to the trunk opening) I would like the sub and the port to face the seats. I would appreciate your guys help. and THANK YOU in advance
  11. Hey Guys i was just wondering what the community thinks about this box..i copied the description below http://m.ebay.com/itm/300457786772?nav=VI&sbk=1 *Big ports and a divider separating left and right chambers. *Built solid for deep clean bass *Tuned at about 35 hertz *Dimensions: Width 38, Height 15.25, Depth 30 *About 8cuft of air space
  12. Hey guys, So I've decided to go ahead and build my own custom box for the first time but I had a few questions before I did so. I understand how to calculate port size, depth, tuning, box volume, the works, but the only thing I'm really unsure of is where the best location for the sub relative to the port would be. I am planning on running a Soundqubed/AQ HDC3 15 tuned to 32hz in a box around 4 cubic feet. To get it to hit hard should both the sub and port be facing toward the rear, top, front, does it really even matter that much? If possible I'd like to have the sub mounted upwards in the center of the box with a slot port on the left rear side (when looking into the car from the rear aka. drivers side) but am open to any suggestions that may lead to a better sounding setup. My car is also a mid sized hatch-back if that helps. Thanks for your help.
  13. A few months ago I had a custom sealed box built for my two 12" Alpine Type R. Running them I have a kicker 1500.1 amp (750x2 rms). I'm using the factory unit which has nav, bluetooth, ,temp controls, etc. I have a 100x6 JL amp running the Alpine that came with my car. Here's my problem. I don't get much bass in the cabin of my car. Some music, mostly pop/dance sounds good, but much of everything else is missing the bass. Rock just sounds empty! For the power I have going to them my car should be thumping! I'm told it's just the accoustics of the car...someone else tried cutting a hole in my rear dec, which didn't do much...the latest Im told is that a new box needs to be built, ported to that hole in my rear deck. Can anyone provide some guidance/insight on what I should do to get the sound I'm looking for, mainly more bass in my cabin?
  14. I was looking to get a sundown zv.4 18 in my 2009 ford focus. I figured out that after the displacement of the woofer and the port that I would have around 7 Cu. Ft. of usable air space. the port would be 5'' wide and tuned to 32 hz. the dimensions of the box are 40 wide, 20 tall, and 22 deep. For my amplifier, i was thinking of using an audiopipe 3000.1. I know that sundown subwoofers can take a decent amount more power than what they are rated, but I am a little concerned that this might be too much power. I think the enclosure will work well with this subwoofer but I wanted to try to get a second opinion on the forum. Let me know what you think or if there is any suggestions that would make this build even better. Thanks.
  15. So.. Recently a guy on facebook i am in the middle of a trade with was curious about box rise.. I tryed to explain. I hope this is correct to be worthy of a post please correct any part that is wrong if someone here catches it.. Convo went like this: Me: Also depending on your box you prob were more like at 4.5 ohms so more like 125 watts each..and if you were only at say 12.5 volts at your amp rather than 14.4 witch is what amps are rated at your more like 100 watts per sub. Most ppl think they blow their amps cause of over power but most ppl dont usally play their subs anywhere near rated power cause they dont know wtf is up.Most common reason to blow a speaker is clipping for noobs atleast. Him: yea true but those 100 watgs each were pretty loud. i have a 6 cube box 3 each with a 8 inch aero port probabl 10 inches deep, one thing i dont get is box rise. Me: I will try to explain.. Ok so a speaker is a type of electric motor.. Motors use magnetic field to move.. The voice coil is an electromagnet.. Imagin the wire wrapped around the coil is a water hosea bigger hose will allow you to flow more water. So imagine that a big hose (wire) has a resistance of 2ohms and smaller hose (wire) has r resistance of. 4 ohms.. It is you can push much more water threw the big 2ohm hose (wire).. So with that said. You know that a coil with less resistance, or less ohms will pull more power from the source witch will make a stornger magnetic force and push it harder againsts the speakers magnets, magnetic force. So then we thro a box i. Te equation.. Lets say you have a sealed box.. You push the speaker in and it will creat pressure makeing it harder for the speaker to move then lets say if you were to push on the speaker in free air.. That added resistince inturn fights against the magnetic force created by the coil restricting the force the speaker can create.. Think of it a kinking the water hose in turn increasing resistNce or ohms (ohms actully should be defined as impedance but thats another lesson..) so lets say you poke a home in your sealed box (port) this relieves pressure the bigger the port is (like unkinking the hose would do) inturn incrasing resistance.. So bigger box bigger port= less box rise smaller box with smaller or no port= more box rise witch allows less power(watts) Hope ppl understand my wording and i want to hear input on this subject
  16. I have a 1992 Crown Victoria that i need to build an enclosure for. The speaker is 1 fully loaded Fi Q 18 D2, this means cooling, pole chamfer, low QTS, spider, no I heat ring, and internal leads. I want to do this right the first time and there are no reputable box builders in my area and i cant for the life of me figure out winisd or any other port calculators. I've tried contacting online box builders for blueprints or just some help and they must be too cool for me as they refuse to contact me back Can someone please help me!!! My outer dimensions are as follows 22"T x 22"D x 38"W. I can squeeze a couple inches in any direction if absolutely necessary and I can definitely run port outside of box. Definitely double baffle, port forward and tuned to 28-34. I say 28-34 as it will be a daily driver application and im not sure which one is better as ive been steered both ways to the point it started a argument on another forum. Im not concerned about sq that much. I want as close to 150db's at the window as possible! It has to be at the very least 6 cubic feet with alot of port area from what im told. I want it as loud as possible!!! I have 2 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" mdf and fiberglass resin for inside. Also have 2 4' lengths of 2x2 wood for bracing but can acquire any other suggestable bracing materials. I do plan on doing 45's in the corners and rounding edges. My equipment is as follows. Sony 601bt HU, Knu 0 ga wiring, Knu RCA's, XS Power D3100, 200+ amp Mitsubishi police interceptor alt controlled by a bakatronics PWM device charging at 14.9, R.F. T2500-1BDCP Wired @ 4 Ohm for 1800 RMS, Soon a R.F. T1000-4ad, and a Fi Q 18 D2 ohm w/ a sexy carbon fiber dust cap! I cut out my back dash for open space to trunk and plan to run sub and port forward at the opening between cabin and trunk as i plan to seal the enclosure to the cabin. Ive mocked a cardboard enclosure with these dimensions and it will work but I have no idea how it will sound or if the depth is deep enough etc. If anyone has the knowledge and can help me with a diagram i would be willing to send cash via paypal. All thoughts, ideas, and suggestions are welcome! Also if anyone out there has any leads on a R.F. T1000-4 or 3sixty.3 let me know. The sub woofers specs are on here http://store.ficaraudio.com/q18... This is the enclosure recommendation at the bottom that was sent to me by Nick of Fi car audio. I could use it if absolutely necessary but wont work great and would require cutting and welding. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ To all that reply Thank you. This is my first REAL build and input is greatly appreciated! I will post pics when done!
  17. Hey everyone! So I've got 6 Kicker L7 15's that I am going to run on 3 - Massive N4 Amps. Basically I need advice for the new box I'm wanting to build. I kind of have an idea of what i want it to look like BUT get stuck when it comes to port sizes. I attached a quick sketch. -This set up is NOT for my daily driver (2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV) and I listen to different music genres but mostly EDM and RAP. -I want them to pound and hit lows well when I turn em up -The maximum space I can use is: W:54in. x H:21in. x D:57in. so up to 32.88 cubic feet of gross volume, if it was one whole box. (The height can vary a few inches.) I was thinking of dividing this into 3 boxes within, for example, have one full piece top, bottom, sides and just have 3 walls inside dividing each set of 2-woofers. -The woofers and port(s) will be facing up. I know Kicker recommends up to 6 cu. ft. of net volume per sub for these subs for "SPL/DeepBass". Overall my questions are: -How many cubic feet should I make my box? -What frequency should I tune my box to? -Any other hints based on my needs? Thanks guys!
  18. So I have recently purchased two SA 12's dual 2 ohm, and a Hifonics BRZ 2400.1d. First questions. How long should I break these in for? I plan on running at 2 ohm obviously to give it that extra power these subs crave. I currently have a Kicker box approximately 4.4 cubes tuned at 42 hrz. Now I know this box is far from a 'good' enclosure for this setup so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a box build or prefabbed box sizes. I would like to know if I should get a box with a side port or a front port firing to the rear of the vehicle. Lastly, I have yet to get a second battery for the trunk (going in a cavalier) and would like to know what size battery I should get. Any ideas, suggestions, opinion, etc. is extremely appreciated! Thanks guys. I know SMD forums will get me the most accurate and reliable information available online.
  19. I need some help I have a brand new 13.5 jl w7 and a 1000/1v2 amp I have no clue what to do for a box or how to build what I need I want a box that will hit hard but still sound pretty good any help?
  20. Hey everyone. Long time reader, first time poster. I have always found my answer with enough reading, however box design is something i can not seem to grasp. If anyone would have a few minutes to design a box for me it would be greatly appreciated. The box im running now is beyond junk.. Vehicle : Chevy Blazer Location in the vehicle: Rear / Cargo Area Space available (Depth x Width x Height):Depth is 33In, Width is 40In, Height at 12inches I can keep it hidden under the cargo cover (preferred). But 17inches max. Subwoofer make and model: Kicker L7 Subwoofer Size: 12 Inch Number of Subwoofers: Single Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.):Slot Port What type of music do you like?: Mostly Rap Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Both I suppose. Looking for that balance of LOUD and LOW Tuning Freq (Hz): 35Hz is that balance as far as I have read... Volume : Whatever is necessary for optimal result. Space available is the maximum space i could give up in the cargo area. I would like the box as small as possible (while staying within Volume spec / Hz Tuning) to retain some room for cargo. Also I have noticed on some box requests the amp setup seems to be asked about. Pairing this with a kicker 750.1.
  21. I have a 2009 Ford focus and I currently run 2 kicker L3 15's on a RF 750.1. They hit but it is a temporary setup until i get my new system. I am looking to get a Sundown Audio Zv.4 18 in the trunk. I figured out that my i can get about 7 cu ft after displacement of the sub and the 5'' slot port tuned to 32 hz.
  22. I wanted to know if someone could help design a box for my subs. Its going in a SUV with a width of 40", depth of 23" and can go as high as 17". Let me know if you need any more info. I am looking to make a ported box and really don't know much about how to get it tuned right so I thought I would ask you. The subs that are going in are 2 12" Lanzar Max Pro subs. Thanks.
  23. Hey ya'll just thought Id stop in on this awesome forum and ask for some technical help. I am thinking about building a box for two 12" subs. One think I am not quite sure about however is a good box design. Id prefer if it would fit in my trunk, (Pontiac G6) and be ported. Because I love ported boxes. Anyway I was screwing around with RE's Box Calculator and honestly could not decided on what I wanted to do... Because I plan on putting quite abit of money into this build I would like to make it right the first time. Any help is appreciated! Future Plans. (Scratched Future Plans with the Sundown Audio, Living in Ontario its hard to find a reliable dealer.)
  24. Well, I'm about to start the rebuild on my blazer and have just about everything together, but one thing I REALLY need help with is a box design and an amp rack/mount that will fit in the back of my car. Any and All help is appreciated. Here are the specs: Subs: 2 Skar VVX-12 D4 (http://cart.skaraudio.com/skar-audio-vvx-12-subwoofer/) Sub Amp: Crescendo BC2000D (16"L x 2.75"H x 9.5"W) Mid/High Amps: (2) MB Quart ONX4.125 (20"L x 9"W x 2-1/2"H) EACH Battery for rear: XS D1200 (6-9/16”D x 7-13/16”W x 6-3/4”H) Box Type: Ported, wanting tuned around 28-32, but open to suggestions. Aimed at SPL Chevy Blazer 4D, Base of seat to hatch/tailgate: 36" Top of seat to hatch/tailgate 33" (These two, I'm sure you already know, but this will be right up against the tailgate/back wall, as in less than an inch or inch and half of room between the box and back. Port needs to have room to breathe) Height to top of seat: 16" (I know its low, but gotta keep it here to be able to see out the rear, and for competition reasons) Height to window line: 16.5" Wheel well to wheel well: 37.5" **I know it may make things a little more complicated, but I need all of the amps/battery to also be under the 16" height if possible, and on the side of the box closest to the front of the car, and some of my wires will not reach to the back.** Like I said, ANY help is appreciated, and I will definitely send the person whose design I pick a little something something.
  25. I'm trying to plan what to do for a build and was needing some of your more experienced people to help out. I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer and plan to go with 15" subwoofers. I want to run either 3 or 4 15s. If I go with 3 then I can have enough room to fire the port towards the hatch. If I do 4 then I will have to do a subs up port up design with the port firing towards the roof. My question is which setup would be more efficient for numbers and sound quality. Subs will be SQ hdc3 or American bass HD. Thanks for your time.
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