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Hifonics brz1700


boltdbz

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not offended, just giving my experience on the product and I disagree with this statement " many people still wont even touch it with a ten foot pole" on the BRZ line

you honestly haven't been browsing the forum long enough to see that then. because i've seen many people state that (not verbatim) multiple times.

not true, not sure why you keep on assuming everything, you know assumption is the mother of all F*** up, this is not the only forum in the net for car stereo, just an FYI

i dont assume. i dont lie. i dont cheat. i know a decent amount of stuff for somebody my age. i apologize when i get proven wrong with evidence. you must think im an imbecile or something. i speak what i have seen time and time again. "fyi" i know there is caco, and roe, and csco, and d4s, and all those other forums. i joined roe a few months before i even joined smd back in 2006, but i stuck with this one because its the best out of all of them.

if you guys think im such a prick, ask around a bit to see how many people i've helped out with their equipment. or just sit around and see how i actually help individuals out on an almost daily basis.

edit: and im done with this thread. kranny rule is in full effect.

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there are plenty of people out there having no issues with hifonics. Are they just lucky? possibly and i guess im one of those lucky ones. Like i said before for a basic system thats not to insanely crazy i have yet to have issues with hifonics and voltage drops, my speakers so awesome with no clipping and im a stisfied customer. There is always a better brand out there always, but if you're just lookin to get the job done and aren't looking to buy something because of a brand name or top of the line performance then i dont see why its an issue. Long as you arent clipping and pushing the right amount of watts role with it. My next big amp i get will probably be another kicker or RF or maybe even ppi but im satisfied with my purchase and im sure the OP will be also. TUNE TUNE TUNE and enjoy

you aren't seeing any voltage drop with your stock electrical because your amp isn't outputting enough power to stress the alt. likely due to impedance rise.

either you folks can listen to me, or not. i'm just here for some honest input.

YOU ARE WRONG, my brz 1700.1d will pull power from my electrical down to 12.4 on full tilt with dual battery set up, metered at 143db

^^^ I just wanted to add to this, I bet if you threw a amp in that kranny was talking about, it would put up higher numbers, with less of a voltage drop. The main thing you are paying for when getting the more quality amps is their efficiency. I was running all MB Quart amps because of a budget, it got the job done. Upgraded from the FX1.600 to a AQ750.1, which on paper the MB Quart put out more power, fuck no it didn't. It put out less power than the AQ and pulled more power from my electrical. Just so you know. ALso, kranny knows what hes talking about. Only time I have ever seen that guy speak is when hes in the right, I think I can only recall a tiny handfull of times he was proved wrong, and that was on some really indepth car audio shit, and it was buy some seasoned vets who have been in car audio for as long as he's been alive. If you want to save the most money in the long run, save up an extra 100 or so per piece you need to get that better bit of quality. just my .02

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
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well thanks for all the useful knowledge i got from this forum lol. had to sift through the bs but i found helpful knowledge lol. So on a serious note kranny what would be a good amp for say 2000 watts or under that isnt going to completely break the bank? The skar or the AQ maybe? I'm sure the answers to that question may change a year from now or whenever i purchase my next amp but. Im assuming the skar?

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well thanks for all the useful knowledge i got from this forum lol. had to sift through the bs but i found helpful knowledge lol. So on a serious note kranny what would be a good amp for say 2000 watts or under that isnt going to completely break the bank? The skar or the AQ maybe? I'm sure the answers to that question may change a year from now or whenever i purchase my next amp but. Im assuming the skar?

I would like to throw in that if you don't mind. I'm sure he would suggest the AQ Line, 1200, or if you can the 2200. SAZ are pretty pricey but are damn good, im thinking of a 3.5k for the future. There is still Skar with the 1500.1, which at the moment skar had B-Stock of the 1500 for $325 +shipping, great deal. I purchased a IVX-15 off B-stock and never had a single problem with it since I got it, I've reached mechanical limits a lot too and still holding strong. You still have the Crescendo BC2k for around the same price of a skar 1500.1 brand new. Many choices man, but if it where me, I would take that B-stock skar 1500 :)

Edit: Oops, can't forget DC audio with a 2.0k, I can't remember the price last time I got quoted but they are a good company to check out.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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well thanks for all the useful knowledge i got from this forum lol. had to sift through the bs but i found helpful knowledge lol. So on a serious note kranny what would be a good amp for say 2000 watts or under that isnt going to completely break the bank? The skar or the AQ maybe? I'm sure the answers to that question may change a year from now or whenever i purchase my next amp but. Im assuming the skar?

honestly, audioque/crescendo are the cheapest proven korean made amplifiers on the market right now, from what i've seen. sometimes AQ has sales which drop the price a lot. their most recent one was like 15% off as well as free shipping, which would have knocked off like $80-100 on some of their bigger products.

edit: i'd recommend sifting through the for sale section to see if there is anything in there. helps save yourself a couple bucks.

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I see alot of those AQ2200's on youtube so i figured there has to be something to them. I will need something with more power once i do the ported box for the l7's........the brz2100.1D is rated 1400rms 2-ohm at 14.4 so yea well the subs arent getting that much im sure and i know once you go ported tuned you can throw more power at them. I'm going to be looking at 1500rms+ at 2ohms as the l7's i have dual 2 and if i dropped the impedence wouldn't that give me like under 1 ohm if wired parallel?

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I see alot of those AQ2200's on youtube so i figured there has to be something to them. I will need something with more power once i do the ported box for the l7's........the brz2100.1D is rated 1400rms 2-ohm at 14.4 so yea well the subs arent getting that much im sure and i know once you go ported tuned you can throw more power at them. I'm going to be looking at 1500rms+ at 2ohms as the l7's i have dual 2 and if i dropped the impedence wouldn't that give me like under 1 ohm if wired parallel?

yeah if you wired in parallel, you'd get .5 ohms. i wouldn't do it. if you ever decide to get 2 new woofers and you want to wire to 1 ohm, get either d1 coils, or d4. for a single sub, get d2 coils.

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Kranny you were already done with the thread, yo.

1996 GMC Sonoma
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On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

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