skittlesRgood Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 pretty obvious from the picture that the wire wasn't clamped down well at all. my wire always has a huge, smashed, indent from the set screw. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IAHertz Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 This could have turned out so much worse. Glad you found the problem before something caught fire! 5 pages worth of comments on your issue speaks to the great community here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 A bad connection will result in increased resistance only at the location of the bad connection itself. Therefore if it was a bad ground then that spot would get hot. If it was a bad connection at the amp then that would get hot. You show two heated amp terminals, unlikely that you have two loose terminals that would cause that much damage. You mentioned that the whole wire got hot, that points to a very large DC current draw overall. Take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the input power terminals of the amp (disconnected from the system). I'm guessing a low impedance short that would draw a heavy current but not enough to blow the fuse. I'm also guessing that there was also some corrosion at both input terminals as well, given the amount of heat that was generated. If the connections were clean and solid then you should have had heat damage on all your wire terminations/interconnections. Raptor, don't miss this! Ignore the people talking about your grounds, it doesn't work like that. Like said over and over, the problem is with your connection. Either A) like skittles said you didn't clamp the wire in well enough on either input causing extra heat (this much heat could easily melt the remote plastic as well) or there is something else going on like wicks said, some internal short. If you can, check the power wire with a clamp meter with no music playing, you should have a small current draw on the scale of a few amps max. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 I have seen this many, many times. 95% of the time the cable is loose in the terminal. Although it may appear to be tight now that the plastic has melted around it and perhaps the terminal has even warped,this is the most likely source of the problem. I have also seen situations when the terminal connected to the pcb is not secure which creates the same problem. Its cuz those damn Maxxsonics amps have hex head set screws instead of phillips screw driver and no one ever has the right size! lolol My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 It's a used amp. No warranty on it. And my amp doesn't get hot at all. i guess the plastic spontaneously melted due to perfect climate conditions. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx05 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Ahhh. Oh well. Guess Alpine is right, you just know it all. With that attitude you're never gonna learn shit man. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Thanks Scooby Lol.. I actually did learn something. Thanks for the good luck wish. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 A bad connection will result in increased resistance only at the location of the bad connection itself. Therefore if it was a bad ground then that spot would get hot. If it was a bad connection at the amp then that would get hot. You show two heated amp terminals, unlikely that you have two loose terminals that would cause that much damage. You mentioned that the whole wire got hot, that points to a very large DC current draw overall. Take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the input power terminals of the amp (disconnected from the system). I'm guessing a low impedance short that would draw a heavy current but not enough to blow the fuse. I'm also guessing that there was also some corrosion at both input terminals as well, given the amount of heat that was generated. If the connections were clean and solid then you should have had heat damage on all your wire terminations/interconnections. Raptor, don't miss this! Ignore the people talking about your grounds, it doesn't work like that. Like said over and over, the problem is with your connection. Either A) like skittles said you didn't clamp the wire in well enough on either input causing extra heat (this much heat could easily melt the remote plastic as well) or there is something else going on like wicks said, some internal short. If you can, check the power wire with a clamp meter with no music playing, you should have a small current draw on the scale of a few amps max. I didn't miss it. I've made a mental note to come back and read through it again for when I get home and can sit down and work on it. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptorman Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 amp is a total loss. The set screws ended up being like literally welded into the terminals. I broke 2 screwdrivers trying to get them out, and bent another pair of screwdrivers. And I opened up the bottom plate and a hundred little balls of solder fell out, like the solder melted off the board and dripped onto the plate. Thing is fucked, yo. 1996 GMC Sonoma Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass 2 Ampere 5k's @ .5 TEAM FI TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said: Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.A.G. Audio Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Damn that blows. Definitely figure out the problem before putting in a new amp or having that one fixed. Good luck bro 03 Ford f150 2 Sa8 v2s Ap 1800d... Stinger 0 Guage CA Auto/ Electric Big 3 Xs power d680 in parallel with new group 65 stocker Soon to come another d680 Rockford Punch 6x8 3 ways in the front, Rockford Punch Pro 6.5s in the back Soon to come Pioneers all around Focal Solid 4 Speaker Amp Kenwood KDC-X896 Memphis Line Driver My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/160368-03-f150-king-ranch/ Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/LabAudio502?feature=mhee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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