Single 12" Sealed Not Enough?

[Joe X]

That bump around 40Hz may be the vehicle's resonant frequency which is not modeled (unless you enter the vehicle's transfer function from your own measurements ). Also bear in mind that the prefab box itself can introduce coloration, you could try to polyfill.

[KMS]

Where are you located OP? I can sell you my AQ750

[JG474]

That bump around 40Hz may be the vehicle's resonant frequency which is not modeled (unless you enter the vehicle's transfer function from your own measurements ). Also bear in mind that the prefab box itself can introduce coloration, you could try to polyfill.

That could be it, but I think the box being slightly too big gives it the increase in 40Hz and below (it's the middle response in the picture). And I tried to design a 4th order, using the same dimensions as the prefab box, making each chamber the size of one box, and I couldn't get a decent response. I guess I'll mess with box sizes in BBPro.

[JG474]

Where are you located OP? I can sell you my AQ750

Ohio, but your amplifier has the same output as the amplifier I have now, so I wouldn't want to buy it.

[Joe X]

Engage cabin gain first, and then design it properly

[Joe X]

Also do a fouth order bandpass not a series tuned 6th, those will most of the time have poor transient response.

[JG474]

Engage cabin gain first, and then design it properly

Here's what I got, but it seems really small :?

A crazy 8" hole for a port

The Red is an optimal box that I never had the chance to make, the orange is the box I have now, and the green is the 4th order bandpass:

[CleanSierra]

I love all of the modeling you're doing, but as YOU yourself said, once that enclosure is in a cabin, throw the model out of the window. And yes I, as well as plenty of other members on the site, can build flat responding boxes that are flat IN the vehicle. I have seen a few guys' boxes that performed on the TL with less than 1.5-2 dB difference over a huge sweep of frequencies. Build the box to be efficient, to battle impedance rise, with enough airspace, and the proper amount of port for the driver being used. Too much port and you'll have a peaky box.

[CleanSierra]

P.S. That Dayton subwoofer is s VERY capable driver. I've contemplated getting s couple myself before. They should have the response you're looking for. I never even saw you mention which vehicle you had where all of this equipment is installed. I'd say you have a fair amount of resistance due to your 10 gauge wires for power/ground. Get rid of that crap and put some real power wire in.

[JG474]

I love all of the modeling you're doing, but as YOU yourself said, once that enclosure is in a cabin, throw the model out of the window. And yes I, as well as plenty of other members on the site, can build flat responding boxes that are flat IN the vehicle. I have seen a few guys' boxes that performed on the TL with less than 1.5-2 dB difference over a huge sweep of frequencies. Build the box to be efficient, to battle impedance rise, with enough airspace, and the proper amount of port for the driver being used. Too much port and you'll have a peaky box.

I model with cabin gain that Joe X mentioned in my other thread, 12dB/octave +3dB at 55Hz, but it's practically impossible to have a flat or near flat response with a ported enclosure.

P.S. That Dayton subwoofer is s VERY capable driver. I've contemplated getting s couple myself before. They should have the response you're looking for. I never even saw you mention which vehicle you had where all of this equipment is installed. I'd say you have a fair amount of resistance due to your 10 gauge wires for power/ground. Get rid of that crap and put some real power wire in.

I have a 2010 Ford Taurus, but I run my 10AWG speaker wire around the trim, then along where the driver's side door closes, then through a small gap between metal that leads directly to the hood. I couldn't find the firewall, and I'm not sure if I could fit 4AWG where the 10AWG fits.. I should probably replace the power and ground wire before making a decision on getting a new amplifier, another subwoofer, or making an enclosure.

Would 4AWG be enough for any possible future amplifier upgrades? I was thinking of maybe getting a 1200WRMS amplifier stable at 1ohm incase I do get another subwoofer, but I would have to know the max amperes it draws because I don't want to get a different alternator.