Single 12" Sealed Not Enough?

[JG474]

I had a single SA-8"v2 in a ported enclosure and upgraded to a single Dayton Audio 12" in a sealed enclosure (graphs can be seen here).

And here's the box I bought for it since my engineering teacher wouldn't let me cut wood for the design I made:

It's a decent box, it creates an almost-flat response in-car, but it doesn't feel as loud as my single SA-8"v2 ported. I could feel each note, lower Hertz and middle-ish (35Hz & 100Hz). With the single 12" sealed, the notes are there, but there's no noticable change in air pressure (but my seats shake more) or it's less noticeable than the SA-8"v2.

Currently, I own one Alpine MRP-M500 that gives out 500WRMS @ 2ohms, wired with 10AWG battery and ground wire, 18AWG for the subwoofer. I set the gain using my engineering teacher's oscilloscope today; it was pretty much where I had it already set, +0.5V.

Now, my question is, should I either:

1) Buy another 12" Dayton Audio subwoofer and another sealed enclosure of the same type (What's the point of buying a sealed box that holds 2 12" subwoofers when I could buy another single 12" box that would match the one I already have and be cheaper?)

2) Buy a stronger amplifier so I can set the gain higher without clipping (I know doubling the power would only yield a +3dB increase in sound, but wouldn't adding another subwoofer only add +3dB too?)

I don't really want to make a ported enclosure for the 12" Dayton Audio subwoofer, I'm really fond of the flat bass response, I just wish it were a little stronger, and I don't really want to buy another subwoofer and amplifier as it would be a $400-$500 upgrade, which is kind of a lot for just an upgrade of +6dB.

Sooo, uhh, should I upgrade my amplifier, or add another subwoofer?

[TheBetterMethod]

Add a sub, and enough power to move it. Use bigger power wire and speaker wire.

And put the subs next to each other, not separate. This will increase the efficiency of the system and headroom.

[stroupe79]

where was your SA-8 box tuned to?...35hz? lower/higher?

Prefab boxes even sealed ones are not very good honestly...What's the power handling of that Dayton 12?

[Azzazel_99]

Problem is tiny power wire you're using and using a sealed box

[Skullz]

For one thing it is being choked in a tiny ass box that is sealed and two you want to get something that is ported even if it is tuned into the 40's it will still be better than that box you currently have. Get something in the 2cf to 2.25cf range net and you'll be a lot more impressed with it.

[CleanSierra]

You could fix the problem without REPLACING any equipment except that garbage sealed prefab box. Build a nice ported box for it, tune it to 35 Hz and call it a day.

You're welcome

P.S. The gain knob.isn't a volume knob on the amp. It's too match the output level of the HU to the input level on the amp, simple as that. And you should upgrade your power AND ground wires. Do 4 gauge, it's not terribly expensive, but it's a worthwhile upgrade. Do 1/0 if you may want to upgrade later

[CleanSierra]

I also would like to respond to your "flat response of a sealed box" comment. If your homework is done and you've designed a box well, it CAN be designed to be ported and flat responding. I've got a compound loaded enclosure(isobaric loaded) with 2 12s and it responds flat as hell.

[Joe X]

If you want to stay with sealed I would recommend to build a custom box for the sub and, if you want to be just louder then use two subs.

I have found that a flat response is not necessarily most likeable to everyone, well done ported can difficult to tell apart from sealed, one other way to stay flat is to build a (around) 1:1 4th order bandpass for one sub it has superior transient response to ported and can be more efficient than sealed.

[JG474]

where was your SA-8 box tuned to?...35hz? lower/higher?

Prefab boxes even sealed ones are not very good honestly...What's the power handling of that Dayton 12?

You can find my SA-8v2's graphs here.

This prefabricated box is pretty decent. I don't see anything wrong with prefabricated sealed boxes; ported on the other hand is a different story..

The power handling of the Dayton Audio 12" HO is 700WRMS.

Problem is tiny power wire you're using and using a sealed box

10AWG wire is thermally good up to 40A and I have a 40A fuse in-line. It has never blown.

I also would like to respond to your "flat response of a sealed box" comment. If your homework is done and you've designed a box well, it CAN be designed to be ported and flat responding. I've got a compound loaded enclosure(isobaric loaded) with 2 12s and it responds flat as hell.

You can design a ported box to have a flat response, but it'll never be flat in a car due to cabin gain. Sealed boxes however, can reach a flat response with the help from cabin gain.

If you want to stay with sealed I would recommend to build a custom box for the sub and, if you want to be just louder then use two subs.

I have found that a flat response is not necessarily most likeable to everyone, well done ported can difficult to tell apart from sealed, one other way to stay flat is to build a (around) 1:1 4th order bandpass for one sub it has superior transient response to ported and can be more efficient than sealed.

I like a flat response, but this box gives it a small increase 40Hz and below, but it's nice to have that. I'll look into designing a 4th order bandpass and seeing how its response is.

[notorious97200]

If you miss some output, ported is the way to go.
4th order bandpass are huge.

Upgrade those wires, pleeeaaase !