Pauly1987 Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 Hey guys so I'm encountering an issue one that just started tonight on my way home from work! Ill try and make this short I had just pulled out the parking lot got to my first red light and chose my song and cranked my shit up like usual! About after a second my battery light comes on in the dash ( KEEP IN MIND MY AIR BAG LIGHT AND ABS LIGHT GO OFF WHEN EVER THE SUBS ARE SLAMMING HARD EVEN MY SPEEDO AND RPM NEEDLES JUMP AROUND) but never my battery light so I turn in down and shut it off! Plug in my volt meter and see my battery is reading 12.2v Stays like this till I jump on the freeway and I'm in the 2000 rpm range then volts return to 14.2 which is strange because I'm at 14.4 all day even at idle with no music! So I pull off freeway get to read light turn on music and same thing happens volts drop fast 12.3v and battery light on dash! Shut it down get home take my ddm truck turned off and take a reading. Battery under hood reading 12.8 resting ( stock battery) Battery in cab 13.4 ( kinetik 2400) agm Something off cause my stock battery up front usually rest at 13.5 all the time Equipment is as follows Big 3 0 gage 0 gage all around to battery in back and amp and grounds Kicker 2500 2 15 l7 Stock 120 amp alty 500.4 running door speakers using 4 gage also grounded to chassis All grinded and bolted down grounds Is my battery upfront taking a dump?? Cause obviously my battery in the back is still resting normally the battery up front seems to be off though Usually I can play full tilt and still see 13.5 volt at 2rpm and 12.9 idle for a min or two and my battery light never goes off TILL TODAY! Let me know if u need more info
hdorre Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 Edit: Didnt read the equipment list. Youre pulling a shit load of current On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
Guest Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 stock alt. + amp that pulls twice the current that your alt can produce. make that four times if you're idling. get a better electrical man, or that amp is going to blow and then you're out $700 or however much it costs. edit: your alt probably fried because you are stressing it beyond belief with those amps. thats a cool 300 amps of capable draw right there.
Pauly1987 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Posted March 8, 2013 Also forgot to say my volts are not rising above 14.2 while driving today And I noticed that when I did stop at the red light and my volts dropped 12.2 that it stayed that way idling for 3 min until I have it gas and then it jumped up in volts! This is with music off.
Pauly1987 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Posted March 8, 2013 So would it be safe to say my alty took a dump or its on its way out? Cause obviously it's still charging up the batteries when rpms are up! This leads me to believe alty is still working but on its way out? Yes that amp pulls alot of power but was barley warm to the touch today! But yes you are correct on that amp needing power! That's why I was hopping the battery in back would help! Just trying to learn I rather not blow my 700 dollar amp lol
mbdblue Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 gotta take into account how old your stock battery is too man....Just throwing in an additional battery isn't gonna be enough for that setup. Look into a high output alt and probably avoid cranking your bass at stop lights.... AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
kandiman71874 Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 Simple rules of supply and demand do fit here too btw. Also, mixing battery types is not a good idea on the same charging system. Daily Driver 1999 Kia Sephia Kenwood DNX-893s Audison Bit One Processor 2 Dat 4.125's Sundown Audio SCV-6k Hertz hsk-165xl's Mids running active Focal V30 Series Tweeters running active Sundown Sa-8 v1's in the doors 2 Sundown Zv5 12's Lots of Hushmat Big 3+ and 3 + & 3- runs of Trystar 2/0 2 Dc Power Engineering 320 HP Alts 2017 Comp Vehicle 2006 Toyota 4 Runner Kenwood Excelon DNX-893s Audison Bit One HD DSP 4 Sundown Sa 6.5v2 Component Sets Focal Access 6.5 2 ways Sundown Audio Sax-50.4 Sundown Audio Sax-100.4 2 Dc Power 370xp Northstar agm27f Northstar agm65 2 Northstar asmagm 480's 2 Dual 1 Sundown Nightshade v3 12's 2 Sundown SCV-7500's All SMD Fuse Holders Shitload Of Sundown 1/0 120 sq ft Second Skin Damp Pro No, Its Not A Burp Truck!!!! 2016 Season 3rd place in Xtreme 1 At Finals 2016 Season 6th Place In Kaos 1 At Finals ( Blew The Subs Up In First Round Eliminations) 2 Kansas State Records Set In 2016 In Xtreme 1 And Kaos 1 In Midwest SPL David said: audio is a lifestyle, not a hobby newls1 I cant read a tape to save my life... 1/2's are ok, but other marks confuse me kingsuv only men who cant read a tape, take it in the ass kingsuv you sir, get a pink hard hat on jobsites
Guest Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 gotta take into account how old your stock battery is too man....Just throwing in an additional battery isn't gonna be enough for that setup. Look into a high output alt and probably avoid cranking your bass at stop lights.... x2 on the stoplights thing. makes it harder on the alt. plus pissing people off at red lights gives bassheads a bad name.
Rich Schenk Posted March 8, 2013 Report Posted March 8, 2013 sorry similar problem in my tiburon so you guys suggest H.O. ALT, and 2 batterys of the same type? just trying to gain more knowledge. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
Pauly1987 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Posted March 8, 2013 Yup I know the rule about mixing battery's and was getting a yellow top for under the hood next pay day! Which is next week and the battery up front was purchased in 08 and the kinetik was just purchased 2 months ago! But if my alty is taking a dump its now my number one priority over the yellow top Also keep in mind mixing battery's is not as bad if the car is a daily driver It's the car sitting for long periods of time which really effects mixing battery's My truck is a daily driver that's why I wasn't two concerned What would u recomend for my alty? And price I should be paying? 99 f150 4.6 v8
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