dhall9 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Alright. So, I've been fighting with the car dealership. Signed the papers and then shit goes wrong. My driver's side door lock doesn't work, passenger window doesn't work, right rear window regulator cable got all twisted up in the pulley system. 3 things I have to fix before purchasing new gear. -sigh- Sorry to be a copy-cat, but my subs are so good, the rest of the rockford lineup has to be pretty decent... I see the punch series of door speakers is limited to P1. Should I take the leap and go to T1? Not doing any competitions or anything. Just wondering. Can't speak for the T1 line, but I've always liked the punch line. I've been using them for years without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Aight, I'm confused. I'm ordering gear and I'm not sure what harness to get. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_22902_Metra_Electronics_70-2054.aspx This is what I'm finding. It has 17ft. of cable????? Why???? Is this the correct item to buy? Also, I don't have onstar nor the bose system. Which harness do I need? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhall9 Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 If you don't have the Bose system you don't need the amplifier bypass. But to answer your question, it is 17 ft long because the Bose amplifier is in the rear behind the trim panel. Just in front of the tail light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Alright. So, I've been fighting with the car dealership. Signed the papers and then shit goes wrong. My driver's side door lock doesn't work, passenger window doesn't work, right rear window regulator cable got all twisted up in the pulley system. 3 things I have to fix before purchasing new gear. -sigh- Sorry to be a copy-cat, but my subs are so good, the rest of the rockford lineup has to be pretty decent... I see the punch series of door speakers is limited to P1. Should I take the leap and go to T1? Not doing any competitions or anything. Just wondering. Can't speak for the T1 line, but I've always liked the punch line. I've been using them for years without issue. Punch series is solid equipment. Power series has better SQ and can take more power. Its all in the set up & budget. You do what seem right. Dals set up is solid and well thought out and built. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhall9 Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 If you need the plates made to house the tweets in the dash let me know. I came across my patterns the other day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 If you don't have the Bose system you don't need the amplifier bypass. But to answer your question, it is 17 ft long because the Bose amplifier is in the rear behind the trim panel. Just in front of the tail light. Yea, I seen that from looking at the pics on your build page. Is there any way I can get the single harness without the amplifier bypass being I don't need it? Alright. So, I've been fighting with the car dealership. Signed the papers and then shit goes wrong. My driver's side door lock doesn't work, passenger window doesn't work, right rear window regulator cable got all twisted up in the pulley system. 3 things I have to fix before purchasing new gear. -sigh- Sorry to be a copy-cat, but my subs are so good, the rest of the rockford lineup has to be pretty decent... I see the punch series of door speakers is limited to P1. Should I take the leap and go to T1? Not doing any competitions or anything. Just wondering. Can't speak for the T1 line, but I've always liked the punch line. I've been using them for years without issue. Punch series is solid equipment. Power series has better SQ and can take more power. Its all in the set up & budget. You do what seem right. Dals set up is solid and well thought out and built. Well, being I already had the punch series subwoofers, I wanted the rest of my equipment to match. I know I can do a quick build on the punch line due to the pricing, but the power series just looks sexy and expensive. Here's the thing... I had all hifonics in my mazda before I totaled it. Had the 2011 Zeus components in the front and rear. They were good for $40 a pair, but the Zeus amp I had on them didn't put out the wattage it claimed. When I hooked them up to a higher wattage/more expensive planet audio amp, it got louder and more punchy. Just that the low mids just weren't there. Guitar chugs just sounded thin. Almost like I was hearing a gap between my subs and these speakers. I feel like I have to spend a crap ton of money on expensive gear to get what I need, but then again I've never really heard anything else besides hifonics and pioneer in a car. So, I don't know what's good for the price and what's not. If you need the plates made to house the tweets in the dash let me know. I came across my patterns the other day. I'm still not sure if I want the tweets or the 3 1/2" up there if anything at all. I'll have to fill up my doors to see how I like it first. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted April 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Aight guys. Made up my mind. Too many different choices. I don't see many Polk Audio builds. So, I'm just going to try it out. How do I start a build log? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 1. Driver door manual lock broken (replaced)2. Passenger window regulator broken (replaced)3. Right rear window regulator broken (replaced)4. 3/4 of the speakers worked5. Dome lights fail to dim when doors close. I have to turn them on/off manually.6. Unknown water leak. (Last week my passenger floor and under the passenger seat was soaking wet. First guess was the heater core. I don't smell antifreeze. Second thought was rain. Left the car out last night and drove it to school in the rain this morning. Not a drop. 3rd guess was the A/C and heater system. Ran both heavily just to provoke dripping or condensation. Nothing. I'm confused because it was only wet that one day and it was enough water to soak through my backpack and get my books wet. Any idea where the water would have come from that one day?)7. Driver door is bent(?), poorly sealed(?), or poorly aligned with the frame(?). (I drive down the highway and it sounds like my window is cracked open as if I were to smoke. I pull my hard door towards me and the wind stops. Any ideas?)8. The hatchback glass assembly needs replacement. (I signed papers on this, but the dealership is waiting on a salvage yard to send them a correct identical replacement instead of ordering me a new one or painting the replacement. So, they gave me a buick glass til they find one.)9. Weird A/C noise. (No idea what this noise is, but when I turn the air conditioner to blow out of the facial(?) vents, it sounds like a damn machine gun under my dash for about 2-3 seconds. When I turn the knob to the windshield vents it sounds like machine gun under the hood. Any ideas what this noise might be? Really annoying.) Here are my problems to fix before any audio goes on. Any advice? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kade Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Anyone? 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmike Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 # 9 is most likely and acutator going bad , ive had 2 go out in my 07 impala ss 2007 trailblazer lthead unit- pioneer p4300dvd crescendo ft-1 supertweeters pioneer m650 pros audiocontrol 2xs crossover Rockford fosgate p200-2 highsrockford fosgate p400-2 mids1- fi btl 18amps- saz 3500battery- evermax in front, 2 9a31 dekas in rearwires all knuconceptz 1/0 and rcas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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