siucsaluki11 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 The way i am currently set up im running active off my HU (9887), im looking at upgrading, not any time soon, schools almost over, im pretty broke, and im moving, so i gotta save, but i feel like doing some looking, and i was wondering, since i tend to run active, if i were to go with a component set (say i wanna grab something new and another amp to put some speakers in the back, idk, ive been running just up front for about 3 years now) do they typically match the driver and the tweeter to both be 4 ohms or do they work that magic on the crossover network? woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Actually, now that i think about it, im trying to think of how id wire the signal before amplification even. I have High (high passed) Mid (band passed) and Low (for the subs) coming out of my HU, crossed over on the HU. The signal is going to a MRP-F300, it appears it only has 2 outs on it, 1+2 and 3+4, so, now i got some thinking to do about how i would go about this, wont happen for a bit, too much debt in student loans and moving in a few months, but need something to think about besides school EDIT: Or I may just stay active up front and nothing in the rear, i either dont know where to look or havent been able to find amps that have the proper preamp pass throughs, everything ive found either has none or summs it....hmmmm..... woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomZoom808 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Not sure what you are talking about... Do you want to Bi- Amp a set of components and run another Amp for the rears? I don't think your head unit will do band pass but I could be wrong. If it does you would need a 6 channel amp or a 4 to bi amp and a 2 channel for the rear. Or you could Run the Comps on the front 1 and 2 channels of the amp you have then the passive cross over network will blend the mid and tweeters and still run your mids active still on channel 3 and 4. This is what most people do. Most comp sets are 4 ohms final impedance if you are using the passive X-Overs they come with. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 if you dont know what hes talking about why post? THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.