CharlieD1126 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Okay, so to start this off, I have installed multiple car audio systems in my car, it is a 1998 Lexus GS300, I have never had an issue with grounding before but now it seems I can not ground any amplifer to any bare metal and make it work... I have tried multiple spots to ground my amps. First I had a Kicker 400.1 that worked fine in my truck, then I put it into my Lexus and it started kicking off every 5 minutes, same grounding point as my last amplifer, Hifonics 1700.1D and it never kicked off. Since then, I have grounded my amp to the chassis, the strut tower, seat belt bolt, and manufacturer grounding points, none of them work, they all have to high of a resistance for either my Kicker amp (which I sold) and my new rockford fosgate 4 channel amp. I plan on doing a major install with 2 more amps and 2 more batteries, but I cannot do this until I get my grounding issue fixed... anyone have any idea where I can ground too? the only other thing there is the engine... and that's obviously way too far away from the trunk to run a ground. Please Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 How do you know it's not a good ground? Are you sanding the paint off where you are grounding? What type of screws are you grounding with? Are you screwing it down tightly as possible? When you say chassis do you mean out of the car or in? Is your ground wire crimped or soldered on the ground wire securely? Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrzechNJ Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 all above and did you try different wiring ... ? sometimes Loud is NOT pretty Sounds like its safe to go ahead and bend that ass over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieD1126 Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I have been checking every ground with a multimeter and set it to ohms the lowest possible setting, I plug the postive end of the mm to the ground on the amp, and then take the negative end and touch where I want to ground. everything in my car is above 3.0 on this setting and from what I have researched or been told, it needs to be .3 or lower. I run Kicker 1/0 gauge and then it goes down to 4 gauge in the trunk and at first I had 1/0 gauge in the back for the ground, but I started to not find any grounding points and it became to short, like 8-12 inches, I made a 4 gauge ground wire it is 15-18 inches long now. When I say chassis I mean outside under the car, and it is crimped, not soldered. Also I sand off the paint and make sure it is bare metal of course and I am eithering using bolts or set screws. The FIRST ever grounding point was done by best buy and that was for my Hifonics 1700.1D, but that grounding point never worked again for any other amp, I am so frustrated, I feel like my car has no grounding points. My amp will work, but will only work for 3-5 minutes especially at higher volumes, it cuts out for a split second and then comes right back on, sometimes it is freezing cold, sometimes it is burning hot. And as of right now since I am working on buying everything I need, I am running my rockford fosgate 4 channel on a Alpine Type E 12 bridged at 4 ohms, just for giggles. but it actually hits suprisingly well, when it is working -__- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I have been checking every ground with a multimeter and set it to ohms the lowest possible setting, I plug the postive end of the mm to the ground on the amp, and then take the negative end and touch where I want to ground. everything in my car is above 3.0 on this setting and from what I have researched or been told, it needs to be .3 or lower. I run Kicker 1/0 gauge and then it goes down to 4 gauge in the trunk and at first I had 1/0 gauge in the back for the ground, but I started to not find any grounding points and it became to short, like 8-12 inches, I made a 4 gauge ground wire it is 15-18 inches long now. I've never heard of using a MM to find a ground. From what I got, your using a DMM set to OHMS then putting your pos to your amp ground and your neg to your car? Not sure if someone else can verify how to do this. You confused me a bit with what you said your wiring is. What gauge power wire are you using? If you are using 0 gauge power, you need to ground with 0 gauge. If your powering with 4 gauge, ground with 4 gauge. Keep the ground wire itself as SHORT as possible. Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Can you post a picture of your ground wire, amp, and where you have tried to ground it? Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieD1126 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 I have 1/0 gauge that goes into another fuse block in the back that switches it to 4 gauge and I have 4 gauge grounding. I will put up a picture later since I do not have time right now, probably around 5:15 eastern time. Also I am using a digital multimeter and it is set to ohms/resistance.The ground wire is now connected to manufacturing ground point, but there could already be to much resistance with other stock appliances in the car grounded there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangrebel Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Check you engine ground strap. Usually when things like this happen. You have cooked the grounding strap. Usually on back of motor forwards firewall. 1999 GMC Yukon, 6 PSI platform 5 18's, 4th order bandpass by BHE, Taramps, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieD1126 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Never heard of a grounding strap before, do you know where this would be located on a 1998 Lexus GS300? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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