standardcabspl Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 low ohm loads with not optimal electrical=heat and distorition which can equal fried parts.:/ Good lord sweet baby Jesus. Did you read the thread at all? Bagged 1993 nissan hardbody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted April 19, 2013 Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 That amp is only going to see an extra 30 watts per channel at 2 ohms and you may not even hear the difference. I would get a larger 4 channel amp or get a second one and bridge them at 4 ohms to your components. I don't see the point of running mid-range and tweeters at low ohm loads. More heat, more distortion (that is possibly audible). Doesn't seem to be worth the effort. Maybe if you had a super duper spl setup with a gaggle of subs but I would still recommend wiring in groups of 4 mids or tweets in series/parallel on a large full range amplifier to get a final impedance of 4 or 8 ohms. Not bashing; just giving it to ya straight 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoit Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 gonna surface an older post...im on the fence from running two sets of components at a 2 ohm load, or simply purchasing some 2 ohm components. I would think two pair of 4 ohm components=more speakers=more sound and obviously, just purchasing a larger amp that would give me more 4 ohm power per channel would be ideal, just shopping around with some ideas...please feel free to give your .02 here for knowledge, and understanding..so that I can make a realistic educated choice. 2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan 2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm 2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank Singer 220 amp alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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