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Tips for building wall inside Blazer?


Amart88

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Posted

I am going to be starting a wall build within the next 2 weeks in my 2 door blazer for 4 Sp4 18's. I have been going over the UBL's and info on here with a fine tooth comb for months but there are still a few things that I am lost on. I want a low tuning around 32hz, I don't have any exact dimensions so unfortunatley I'm mostly going off of pictures, common sense and a measuring tape. Figuring it out as I go. I don;t know where else to turn.

I'm not sure what the best places are to secure it to the vehicle. (hard to tell in pics) Seat and cargo bolts??

I'm not quite sure how the pieces are attached (screwed) when inside the vehicle. Especcially on the shallow angles (justin and loudnlow for example)

The top sides and roof seem to be my biggest speed bump. I see some use metal brackets and some don't. and maybe 2x4's on the outside and above the top? Also, the the height from the bottom to the top.

Just looking for as much knowledge as I can get before I begin. I've done a wall in my cobalt but I built it outside as a box, slid it in and trimmed around it but this is all new to me.

Thanks!

I will be running 2 BC3500D's so I need it to be reasonably efficient.

Posted

Tear out all seats and other not needed junk then get some dimensions and start from there. As for bolting it down drill some holes in the sheet metal and use nuts and bolts with washers, but be careful where you drill so you dont drill into the gas tank or any other important thing lol.

Building it inside you could either do the 2x4 shell or use a kreg jig. Makes things 1000 times easier. You can use metal brackets when it you get it done, fiberglass the corners, angle iron on the baffle, all thread, whatever you want. Use some foam between the top of the box to seal it off top and sides. Lots of goodies you can do.

7w1lnOR.jpg

2004 Bagged Trailblazer

(4)18" Sundown Nsv3s
(4) Taramps HD10000s, Taramps DSP3000, Lanzar opti 250x2, AB 100x4
(2)DC power SP 270s, (14)XS Power d3100s, (1)d6500

 

Posted

Tear out all seats and other not needed junk then get some dimensions and start from there. As for bolting it down drill some holes in the sheet metal and use nuts and bolts with washers, but be careful where you drill so you dont drill into the gas tank or any other important thing lol.

Building it inside you could either do the 2x4 shell or use a kegg jig. Makes things 1000 times easier. You can use metal brackets when it you get it done, fiberglass the corners, angle iron on the baffle, all thread, whatever you want. Use some foam between the top of the box to seal it off top and sides. Lots of goodies you can do.

Yeah, Everythings out now sound deadened and foamed roof braces so ready to start building. I want it as strong as it can be so I don't have to worry about it. I will be using pl400 adheisive as we don;t have titebond where I live. There are 2 cargo bolts in the back and lots of seat belt bolts on the floor just not sure how to utiilize them. I guess I will just take my time and putter away.

Posted

I just started mine.....4 18s in a 96 4 door

Been looking at a couple on caco and one on Ssa

Let me get a pic of how I did the floor. Then I'm doing the sides connected to it with a kreg pocket jig.

Team Flex Issues

Posted

20130414_184834_zps0eac73f0.jpg

That angled piece was kinda tough connecting to the back flat one. I didnt even bother with it on the other side lol. that's how I've seen a few do the floor. It obvioulsy wider at the front where the baffle will be. The sides will come back then cut out around the wheel Wells to clear

Team Flex Issues

Posted

as far as connections in the top, you can see how justins was put together with this pic.

walljoints.png

Thanks for this, It is giving me a ton of ideas. :)

What did you do with the little side windows to keep em' from flapping?

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