hankfan79 Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 This is my first official post. I joined last week so I could order some DC Audio subs from another member. I figured this was the best place to figure out my issue. First off I have a 2012 Toyota Camry with less than 5K miles on it. I have already decided to install a aftermarket stereo. This is not my first time around the block so I wanted to be prepared for it. I wanted to start with the electrical system. Well, I did, and that's where my problem is. The resting voltage on the factory battery was 12.67 The voltage while at idle was 13.88 This was not good enough for me because I am going to be running 2200 RMS so I replace the factory battery with a XS Power 3400 ($250) 1/0 AWG wire ($45) approx 7/ft Added 1/0 from the alternator-battery Added 1/0 from the battery to frame. My running voltage is a whopping 14.02 I really expected to see 14.4 with all this new gear. Or at least somewhere close. Anyone know what the issue might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 there is no issue. 14v is high enough. you're doing to drop to 12v regardless with the stock alt on that much power. i dont see how you want to go from 14.0 to 14.4 when you're just going to drop to mid 12's anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aidan Hansen Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Are u running that 2200rms amp at this point? If so what amp. ^Vehicle log to come soon for this.^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Yeah, that's normal. Nothing wrong with charging at 14v ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrewJones Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 The car probably controls the alternator charging voltage.But like the others said, what does that .2 of a volt matter? TEAM SOUTH Bassahaulic Productions The ONLY Bright Atlantic Blue DiamondBoxx L Drew Jones Bassahaulic Productions 4 SSA ZCON 15"s 2 Sundown SCV-6000's 6 AGM G31's 161.6 @ 40Hz Outlaw 159.8 @ 36Hz Legal ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 The car probably controls the alternator charging voltage. But like the others said, what does that .2 of a volt matter? about 7db. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankfan79 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Thanks for the replies. I know it's not that big of a deal but I don't want my other electronics to suffer or torture the heck out of my alternator. I guess I am just disappointed more than anything. I figured I would have gotten better results with such an upgrade. I might go with a HO Alternator from Mechman to prevent such voltage drop. Are u running that 2200rms amp at this point? If so what amp. Not exactly at this point. I am still waiting on the delivery of my woofers. I just want to make sure everything is in order before I start the install. Fosgate T-1500-1bd and Fosgate P10003XD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Regarding your other electronics: Your car has 2 voltages. Alternator voltage and battery voltage. Once you exceed your alternator's output capability, your voltage will drop and your battery will soak up the difference. So really your charging voltage doesn't make a difference. You will either be holding close to 14 because your alt can keep up with demand or you will be dropping to 12.x as your battery helps to supply the electrical load. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Thanks for the replies. I know it's not that big of a deal but I don't want my other electronics to suffer or torture the heck out of my alternator. I guess I am just disappointed more than anything. I figured I would have gotten better results with such an upgrade. I might go with a HO Alternator from Mechman to prevent such voltage drop. Are u running that 2200rms amp at this point? If so what amp. Not exactly at this point. I am still waiting on the delivery of my woofers. I just want to make sure everything is in order before I start the install. Fosgate T-1500-1bd and Fosgate P10003XD lol the big 3 just allows current to flow easier between the alt and battery. you're lucky you even gained voltage. some people dont at all. 7 feet of wire doesn't perform miracles. you dont want to stress the stock alt? then buy a 200+ amp one. you are literally being disappointed at nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl0wn Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Higher than mine stock. Ha 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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