bass4thetruck Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 12s have more cone area yes but the kid probably wont want to buy a big amp to power 2 subs They can do fine on 1200 rms the guy put down a bad number so i cant contact him about the sa12s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass4thetruck Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 12s have more cone areayes but the kid probably wont want to buy a big amp to power 2 subs I wouldn't consider a 1200 watt amp a big amp. But the the 12s are the best option for the reasons already stated. but he might Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncochran Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 If his goal is output, I would go with the 12s. As far as an amp goes... "cheap" amp that pushes 1200W rms will run them just as well as a "good" amp that pushes 1200W rms The key is less in brand names and more in actual stats. ie... if a 3000W cheapo amp atcually puts out a clean 1200W for $150, it will sound identical to a $500 amp that is rated at 1000W but puts out 1200W. Output is Output (for the most part). But that is sorta off topic I guess. Either way in this case go with the 12s imo. If you have a set amount of power, it will be louder on the setup with more cone area most of the time. 2006 Scion xB 2 Sundown SA12D2 Ported at 32hz 147 on non termlab (140-142 on TL) Currently in a walled 4th @ 50hz (not metered yet) Hifonics brz2100 Alpine Type-S Components Kicker 300.2 Big 3 / Skyhigh 1/0 cca Optima Blue Top 3 e8s ported at 32hz 135.1 sealed on dash @ 56hz 135.0 outlaw (I must have chosen song poorly lol) Build log 'Brandon15zzz', on 09 May 2012 - 3:13 PM, said: May have been clipping but none fucks were givin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XmaximuS Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 All depends. I ran a single 15 for years and loved it. I changed over to 2 12s for the last 8 months and loving it more.. The 15 seems to have a better efficiency on the low bass extension at lesser power. The 12s have more over all detail and impact. both setups I can do bottle tricks(trunk) but I cant do a cup trick(16oz.) with the 15 but I can with the 12s. Get a professionally design box... They're are many. With that being said. I think you cant go wrong with either sub setup.. X MY BUILD LOG>>>> NAH I BETTER NOT.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 All depends. I ran a single 15 for years and loved it. I changed over to 2 12s for the last 8 months and loving it more.. The 15 seems to have a better efficiency on the low bass extension at lesser power. The 12s have more over all detail and impact. both setups I can do bottle tricks(trunk) but I cant do a cup trick(16oz.) with the 15 but I can with the 12s. Get a professionally design box... They're are many. With that being said. I think you cant go wrong with either sub setup.. X almost everythign you stated is box dependant not 12 to 15 dependant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 If his goal is output, I would go with the 12s. As far as an amp goes... "cheap" amp that pushes 1200W rms will run them just as well as a "good" amp that pushes 1200W rms The key is less in brand names and more in actual stats. ie... if a 3000W cheapo amp atcually puts out a clean 1200W for $150, it will sound identical to a $500 amp that is rated at 1000W but puts out 1200W. Output is Output (for the most part). But that is sorta off topic I guess. Either way in this case go with the 12s imo. If you have a set amount of power, it will be louder on the setup with more cone area most of the time. lol i wouldn't necessarily think that...bullshit. edit: explain to me then why my $270 audioque 1200 made my woofers sound better than my old $150 audiopipe 1500 that blew up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XmaximuS Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 All depends. I ran a single 15 for years and loved it. I changed over to 2 12s for the last 8 months and loving it more.. The 15 seems to have a better efficiency on the low bass extension at lesser power. The 12s have more over all detail and impact. both setups I can do bottle tricks(trunk) but I cant do a cup trick(16oz.) with the 15 but I can with the 12s. Get a professionally design box... They're are many. With that being said. I think you cant go wrong with either sub setup.. X almost everythign you stated is box dependant not 12 to 15 dependant --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is so true that its scary.. Most guys get so caught up in woofer brands thinking that it will overcome a sub par box. X MY BUILD LOG>>>> NAH I BETTER NOT.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncochran Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 somehow I tried to edit this post and it ended up reposting below. my bad. did not mean to +1 my post count. 2006 Scion xB 2 Sundown SA12D2 Ported at 32hz 147 on non termlab (140-142 on TL) Currently in a walled 4th @ 50hz (not metered yet) Hifonics brz2100 Alpine Type-S Components Kicker 300.2 Big 3 / Skyhigh 1/0 cca Optima Blue Top 3 e8s ported at 32hz 135.1 sealed on dash @ 56hz 135.0 outlaw (I must have chosen song poorly lol) Build log 'Brandon15zzz', on 09 May 2012 - 3:13 PM, said: May have been clipping but none fucks were givin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncochran Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 If his goal is output, I would go with the 12s. As far as an amp goes... "cheap" amp that pushes 1200W rms will run them just as well as a "good" amp that pushes 1200W rms The key is less in brand names and more in actual stats. ie... if a 3000W cheapo amp atcually puts out a clean 1200W for $150, it will sound identical to a $500 amp that is rated at 1000W but puts out 1200W. Output is Output (for the most part). But that is sorta off topic I guess. Either way in this case go with the 12s imo. If you have a set amount of power, it will be louder on the setup with more cone area most of the time. lol i wouldn't necessarily think that...bullshit. edit: explain to me then why my $270 audioque 1200 made my woofers sound better than my old $150 audiopipe 1500 that blew up? Am editing so that my reply doesn't seem as dickish as yours lol. No hard feelings, just saying.... Anyway, if you read my post I am talking about true watts. We all know a lot of companies are not cea compliant and that their stated RMS is inflated. We all know some other companies that intentionally underrate their stated RMS. My post was simply saying that wattage is wattage. This is a true statement. 1 watt of power (clamped) = 1 watt of power (clamped). If you clamped both of those amps, you would have seen very different numbers. AQ being a better quality product, puts out power (actual power) a lot closer to their ratings than Audiopipe. It may take a 2kw audiopipe to put out the same amount of power (clamped) as an AQ1200. Different companies also base their advertised ratings off of different voltages which greatly affects things. Also, unless a company is CEA compliant, they may or may not inflate thier ratings... Hifonics for example is a CEA compliant company which means that their amplifiers DO put out rated wattage at rated voltage (14.4 I believe). If you have ever clamped a brz2100 or any other of hifonics current lineups you will find that they are very close (generally a little higher than rated but not much). If you clamp a Sundown you will find that it puts out probably 15-20% more than rated. If you clamp a Dual, I expect you will find it is significantly less than rated... If you were to adjust that Audiopipe to 700W (clamped) and adjust the AQ to 700W (clamped)... you would have exactly the same output (assuming crossover set points were the same, and input voltage remained constant). A watt is a watt provided the amplifier is not clipping. To saw that 1 watt is stronger than another watt does not make any sense at all. Here is a definition of Watt: the SI unit of power, equivalent to one joule per second and equal to the power in a circuit in which acurrent of one ampere flows across a potential difference of one volt. Or in more common terms One watt is the rate at which work is done when an object's velocity is held constant at one meter per second against constant opposing force of one newton. Any "Watt" meeting the above definition is equal to another "Watt" meeting the above definition. Now back to the OP, sorry for thread jacking. tl;dr A watt is a watt provided it is actual clamped output and not manufacturer's advertised rating. Sorry for thread jacking 2006 Scion xB 2 Sundown SA12D2 Ported at 32hz 147 on non termlab (140-142 on TL) Currently in a walled 4th @ 50hz (not metered yet) Hifonics brz2100 Alpine Type-S Components Kicker 300.2 Big 3 / Skyhigh 1/0 cca Optima Blue Top 3 e8s ported at 32hz 135.1 sealed on dash @ 56hz 135.0 outlaw (I must have chosen song poorly lol) Build log 'Brandon15zzz', on 09 May 2012 - 3:13 PM, said: May have been clipping but none fucks were givin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 1 cheap "3000 max" power amp that might give you 1000 RMS, and is gonna be able to cook an egg at any given time and prob gonna pop itself in a year for $150? Or a 1200 RMS quality made amp for $250 that will not get hot and will most likely not break unless abused. Just saying My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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