Nubcakeninja Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Posted May 16, 2013 They are wired at 1 ohm right now and they are d4 subs 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon)
FosgateLife Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 They are wired at 1 ohm right now and they are d4 subs Holy mother of god, your pushing over 3k to a pair of T1's! Nice 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
Nubcakeninja Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Posted May 16, 2013 And better yet the amp is one of the ones from steve meades tahoe one of the ones he signed 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon)
FosgateLife Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 You lucky bastard!! Lol sounds like you need a system upgrade for subs Welcome to the forum! Just dont be a dick and you'll fit in great! 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
Kyblack76 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 I did. For over a year. But, I used a dd1. And on a safe tone. Rf drivers get knocked on around here. They have a overload on them. On the "swift terminal" there's a fuse that will let go if they see a full retard amount of power. Although, that don't mean the gain set up wrong won't cook them coils, cuz it for sure can easily happen. Also, unless his electrical is beefed up, I highly doubt he's close at the full potential of that amp. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
FosgateLife Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 Good call.... And im not hating on RF subs just look at my name <------ I love RF subs cuz they sound good 2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/
sodfamily Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 Man your not over powering those subs at all. I have ran the older style T2 15's and new styles T2 15's on a pair per RF2500.1 and a single 2500.1 per sub. Both ways we got the subs stinky and hot and never had any issues at all. Just turned it down once the smell started. Everyone knows you are going to have box rise. And before anyone say anything, yes we can never determine what it will be blah blah blah. What i will tell you is if the person that scoped your set up did it correctly then it shouldn't matter. If your sub control goes to 10 and it is something that you wanna use then it needs to be set at 10 when the system is scooped. That way you know that at sub level 10 and X volume your signal is clean. Once the Head unit is scooped then move to the amp and scoop that as well. If everything is set up correctly then you shouldn't have any issue. Every sub out there will get stinky if over powered regardless if its clean or not, its just gonna happen. But if the system isn't set up clean it happens faster and causing more damage. But to all the people that go strait to the sub level causing the issue, you guys need to stop. Unless you have used every single Head Unit out on the market you have no idea what the sub level does on any particular Head Unit. Just my 2 cents.... I am just a average Joe that works out of his driveway, so take that info how ever you want to.. Head Unit: Alpine CDA 9887 Sub Amps: 4 RF2500's Subs: 8 SA-12's Walled Comp Amp: 1 RF600.2 (for now) Comps: (4) 6.5 Punch Mid Pros and 2 Punch Pro Tweeters Batteries: (1) XS D5100 (5) D3100 Power Cables: 2 runs of 2/0 power and ground each front to back(Try-Star) Alternator: Dual Mechman Rhino 250's Deadener: Fatmat / Damplifier Pro
Nubcakeninja Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Posted May 16, 2013 Yea, I've been thinking about doing a build log so u guys can see my work and my equipment and give me some pointers haha I might put ip the pics this weekend if I get the chance 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.