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Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??


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Posted

007_zps432f36ac.jpg

Here is my suggestion. It looks like the mounting holes for the basket go all the way through. Any possibility to get a thing of all thread (like someone said before) and thread 4 pieces through the holes and slow but surely lower it down with the pvc centering device also. With the all thread through the holes you will be able to lower it slowly and gently till it is in position and wont have to worry about it jumping up at you and crushing your fingers or going off center (hopefully)

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
Posted

Use all 6 holes if you're gonna do that, its what I mentioned before.

As to the steel L brackets, yes they would get stuck to the motor and be a bitch to remove, but I dont think anything else will be strong enough really. I dont think 1/4" would be thick enough..

The all-thread through the basket mounting holes might actually be ok given the thickness of the plate but i'd be a bit worried about the bottom of them splaying out if you dont drill some guide divots in the bottom plate for them.

edit - I used MS Paint to put that together in about 30 seconds.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Posted

edit - I used MS Paint to put that together in about 30 seconds.

30?!??!!?! on ms paint?

3tpk0p.jpg

jk lol :D

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

Posted

007_zps432f36ac.jpg

Here is my suggestion. It looks like the mounting holes for the basket go all the way through. Any possibility to get a thing of all thread (like someone said before) and thread 4 pieces through the holes and slow but surely lower it down with the pvc centering device also. With the all thread through the holes you will be able to lower it slowly and gently till it is in position and wont have to worry about it jumping up at you and crushing your fingers or going off center (hopefully)

I would maybe re drill the holes, and put them where the magnets are. Then you could do it simple, and wouldn't have to go find all-thread, just long bolts.

You may have to use something on the neos, to keep the screws from damaging them. Something thin, and strong, like butter knives, for example. Or good putty knives. Then you could just pull them out of the way at the last second.

Just a suggestion, in for results :popcorn2:


Kickin' Cruiser

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Posted

I'm curious if you have access to a press?

Could you blot the bottom assy to the press and make a bracket to bolt the top plate to the plunger. If its lined up you could just slowly lower it in place.

Posted

Use multiple car jacks around each pillar and slowly lower each jack systematically to ensure the to ensure the top plate is lined up with the neodymium pillars.

Just a thought. Probably not feasible, but magnetic force would not be an issue here if each jack is rated at 2 tons.

This would also allow you to raise the top plate again if it isn't aligned correctly.

Posted

Use multiple car jacks around each pillar and slowly lower each jack systematically to ensure the to ensure the top plate is lined up with the neodymium pillars.

Just a thought. Probably not feasible, but magnetic force would not be an issue here if each jack is rated at 2 tons.

This would also allow you to raise the top plate again if it isn't aligned correctly.

The jacks are made of high grade steel, they would get stuck to the motor and it might cause them to slip while lowering.

Biomedical/Behavioral Science Major, The (Self-Proclaimed) Undisputed-Homemade-Woofer-King

Super-Neodymium-Woofer Build Log: The D4BA-V.2 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169236-diy-super-neodymium-woofer-build-log/?p=2475620

Fucking love Alan you goddamned fucking super nerd lol

When Alan uses big words I don't understand

It's warming up enough that the donut-punching cyclist douchenozzles are getting their two wheeled fagmobiles out.

Everytime I see a guy driving a mini cooper I cant help but think he loves cock & (2/29/16)-My wife just bitched at me about throwing out things we don't really use. My response of well we don't really use your vagina so should we throw that out was evidently not the right response. I had to leave the room.

I missed Alan.

RIP 5/29/15 - I love you son.

Posted

Finally some pics... they all involve paint...

:suicide-santa:

:roflmao:

2001 Toyota Solara (Daily driver small system)

Mechman 240A (140A Idle)

Main battery - Exide AGM Group 34

Audio battery - Kinetik HC800

Head Unit - Samsung Galaxy Tab 2

Storage - Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB HD

Processor - Audio Control Three.2

Distribution - PowerAmper Power Meter (Old school cool)

Mid/High Amp - JL 300/4

Front Stage - JL xr650-csi

Rear Stage - JL xr650-cx

Sub Amp - JL 500/1

Subs - 2 x Hifonics HFX12D4

PowerAmper Power Meter, amps, battery all mounted on custom "strut tower" bar.

floating%20amp%20rack%20sm.jpg

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