Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??

[775Tundra]

On a positive note. I think. Now that you have the motor built, it's just trial and recone correct?

[Dwn4BassAlan]

On a positive note. I think. Now that you have the motor built, it's just trial and recone correct?

I'm trying to avoid $100 recones after each test though, so lets call it, "Extremely careful and safety trials, and if absolutely necessary, a recone or 2."

[Krakin]

Talk to DD and see if you can get one of their supper carbon fiber and Kevlar cones.

Supper ultra thin and supper strong.

Probably costs a very pretty penny.

[Jessica]

Talk to DD and see if you can get one of their supper carbon fiber and Kevlar cones.

Supper ultra thin and supper strong.

Probably costs a very pretty penny.

Sounds Delicious,

On a serious note, i am still super stoked to see this thing play.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Talk to DD and see if you can get one of their supper carbon fiber and Kevlar cones.

Supper ultra thin and supper strong.

Probably costs a very pretty penny.

It's about $260 if I remember, I contacted a seller about them originally, I think CJ also told me how much their DC CF cones are, somewhat similar price I believe.

The one I have is a kevlar reinforced paper cone, so I'm not really sure how it's gonna stand up to it. It feels pretty rigid honestly, but could I do anything to add rigidity without adding a ridiculous amount of weight? I thought about fiber glass resin but I figure it would chip and crack off too easily, and not really add much rigidity if any at all.

Any ideas would be cool

[STEvil]

can always fiberglass/resin the cone from behind if the front doesnt look like it would work or is treated with something that might keep resin from sticking.

If you get adventurous you could build your own flat-piston cone to allow more separation between spider levels for greater linearity ; )

[LBM]

How close is the gap in terms of measurement ???

the gap between the pole piece and the voice coil ID and Top plate and VC OD ???

If it is more than 1 mm per side then you are good to go !!!!

For example

Pole Piece -> 75

VC ID -> 77

VC OD-> 81

Top plate -> 83

These are all assumptions to make my point clear !!

[Dwn4BassAlan]

How close is the gap in terms of measurement ???

the gap between the pole piece and the voice coil ID and Top plate and VC OD ???

If it is more than 1 mm per side then you are good to go !!!!

For example

Pole Piece -> 75

VC ID -> 77

VC OD-> 81

Top plate -> 83

I'm not quite sure, I'll check tomorrow, but if I had to guess I would say we are bordering just below 1mm between the top plate and coil, and it might be even smaller between the pole and coil, but that's only a guess. I'm assuming this based off the paper test and visual memory....

what can I say, I like to live dangerously.................................................that [gap < 1mm] thug life chose me.....

[Dwn4BassAlan]

can always fiberglass/resin the cone from behind if the front doesnt look like it would work or is treated with something that might keep resin from sticking.

If you get adventurous you could build your own flat-piston cone to allow more separation between spider levels for greater linearity ; )

Well it's not pulp so I think there a lot more that would be able to adhere onto the back, and the front is the same too.

Also, concerning cone material, I know it has a huge effect on response, and can dramatically affect the linearity of the speaker as well as resonance. But I haven't used the info that I learned a while ago so I can't remember the differences and details between all of them, and how much shape affects them. Not to be confused with rigidity, the rigidity of the cone is everything, if it's flexing and bending then yeah it's gonna affect it, but as far as I remember if they (deep and flat cone) are equally as rigid and both have the same [Xmax times cone area] then the they produce the sound wave the same lol. Even though I know that's true, it's still always "perceptually wrong" in my village idiot method of thinking because I would think that volumetric displacement of air would be greater by the deeper cone compared to the flat cone, but stupid effective radiation area just says, "Hey brain, shut your mouth and stop thinking about cone depth, it's all about diameter fool." when I do displacement calculations.

But anyway, I never seem to remember the full technical details about deep vs flat cones and if one is better than the other, or if it really just depends..........

So back on track, if you know about cones, would you suggest keeping the kevlar reinforced paper, or go with a DD kevlar-infused pulp cone? The price is worth it if you think it would be better. Also keep in mind damping here, the pulp would without a doubt be better at damping than the cone I have now, but I'm not sure how much better or how much of a difference it will make because I've only studied the effects of damping on midbass and higher frequency speakers, not woofers.

It's only $44 and it's free shipping scheduled to get here on my birthday

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Digital-Designs-Kevlar-Pulp-Subwoofer-Cone-Foam-Surround-/290954255299

(P.S: STUPID NON-LINEARITY, I SHOULD HAVE GONE WITH THE 4" COIL AND LEFT YOU BEHIND, THE ERMAHGERD GETS 50mm OF LINEAR 1-WAY TRAVEL. THANKS ALOT FOR NOT ACCIDENTALLY SENDING 4" DIAMETER MAGNET SLUGS INSTEAD STUPID INTERNET! NOW I'M GONNA HAVE TO MAKE A NEO V.3 WITH A 4" COIL JUST TO BE SATISFIED)

[fox_racin4]

Only read part of your last post.

4" coil with that tight of a gap wont help with keeping coil straight.

That gap is too tight. Plain and simple itll be great for a burp sub tho.

Not sure if any other amps will blow, but soundigital amps blow when the coil leaves the gap or hits pole/top plate, but their protect circut sucks