menesesJr Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Hey guyz, im having this issue with my battery, should i be concerned? my problem is my battery meter drops down to almost the red zone (car stock meter) when I'm idling and have my music bumping at a light or a fast food drive-threw. during this time the meter starts to slowly drop. This is worse at night with my HID's on and the brake light on as we'll. I installed everything my self, i got a XS Power D3400, Big 3 (0 gauge), Alpine PDX-M12 AMP, (2) 12W6v2 and an upgraded 220amp Alternator. is this normal to happen while idling? is my alternator not big enough? or is there something i did wrong? thankz for the response and the time.
DrewJones Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Sounds like your alternator isn't spinning fast enough to fully field when at idle. Smaller pulley should fix it. TEAM SOUTH Bassahaulic Productions The ONLY Bright Atlantic Blue DiamondBoxx L Drew Jones Bassahaulic Productions 4 SSA ZCON 15"s 2 Sundown SCV-6000's 6 AGM G31's 161.6 @ 40Hz Outlaw 159.8 @ 36Hz Legal ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
menesesJr Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Posted June 20, 2013 where did you get the 220 amp alt from? took my stock alt to a auto part shop & repair and had the guy rebuild it up to 220amp
RooTxBeeR Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Also what are the resting voltages and the voltage it drops down ti On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Guest Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 where did you get the 220 amp alt from? took my stock alt to a auto part shop & repair and had the guy rebuild it up to 220amp you likely have jack shit for idle output then. you CAN get a smaller pulley to remedy the low output issue, but i'd be wary if the internals can handle the extra rpms from the smaller pulley.
menesesJr Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Posted June 21, 2013 Also what are the resting voltages and the voltage it drops down ti my resting voltage is 12.8v, the voltage at first time start and idle is 14.5, and the lowest it drops is 12.5v
menesesJr Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Posted June 21, 2013 where did you get the 220 amp alt from? took my stock alt to a auto part shop & repair and had the guy rebuild it up to 220amp you likely have jack shit for idle output then. you CAN get a smaller pulley to remedy the low output issue, but i'd be wary if the internals can handle the extra rpms from the smaller pulley. by worries of my internals do you mean like the timing, the A/C and the water pump and all that shit?? and what are your thoughts on maybe an adjustable regulator (AVBM 2) and having it cranked up to i dont know maybe 14.8 - 15v??
Lbox88 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 No, he means the Stator/Rotor/Rectifier of the alt. Most shops that will rebuild an alternator use cheap parts and methods to try to get the output. UBL | Build Log
Guest Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 avbm wont do anything iirc. its only useful if your alt can actually support the current draw from the amps.
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